From: Wudstix
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Date: 25-Dec-20 |
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Just acquired some Tuffhead Meatheads single bevel. Haven't played with single bevel before. Asking for experiences sharpening and shooting these big heads.
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From: Bowlim
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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Don't know the heads, but you can literally sharpen single bevels like any others by just ignoring that they are single bevel. Say the head is sharp, and you then dull it, but not so it needs a complete regring. Then you can simply touch them up on crock sticks like you would do a kitchen knife, the you will still get the bone splitting effect, and they will sharpen like any other head. Do as much sharpening as you can on the bevel side, and then take the wire edge off with light sharpening on the flat side. But all along the blade is just straight up and down like any two blade head. You will get a tiny bevel if any on the "flat side".
If you like the fact your single bevel has half the beef as the edges we have been forming on our hunting knives and broadheads for ever, then you can sharpen the bevel at one angle and remove the burr basically parallel to the back side. Just as one would sharpen a chisel or plane blade. That will give the edge more cutting power, but it will be more prone to folding over. Both methods work just fine. It is just an edge.
I think the bad rep came as to single bevels being different from the fact they were different, so you have to have some kind of plan, but mostly from people trying to sharpen original Grizzly heads. They are great, but they had paint on them right out to the edge on the non-bevel side, and that seems to have confused a lot of people when it came to that side, and how to sharpen them. Do you scrub all the paint off, or do you put some angle on at the edge.
Single bevels are also a huge game changer on three blades. Too bad there aren't many options.
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From: Wudstix
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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Thanks. Never saw a single bevel 3 blade head.
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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You say 'big heads'. I looked on their web site and didn't see any big heads. That might be a difference in terms. I saw 'long' heads and bad penetrating 'short' heads but no big heads. A Snuffer is what I'd consider a 'big' head. Wide would be more of a term for a Snuffer. Compounders see my Snuffers and they say, "I didn't know they made a head that 'big'." Now I can say, "they don't". sos (sad o sad).
If single bevel penetrate so well, and I'm not disputing that they do, why does every head that is made 1 inch to 1 1/4 inches mostly 1 1/8th? I've never had any trouble getting double bevels 1 1/4 inches through some mighty big critters. With a more durable blade than single.
If they made a single bevel broadhead that was 1 7/8 to 2 inches wide, I might try one. Maybe that extra width and single bevel might equal a double bevel at 1 1/8 in penetration on a whitetail.
Now, there's an experiment and a debate for the LW for the next 25 years. LOL.
Wudstix, If I'm not busy this afternoon, I'll try and take a picture of a three blade single bevel.
Bowmania
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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The 3 to 1 ratio is the best ratio for penetration. It's so good that mechanically, they call it a mechanical advantage. If I was going after cape buffalo, I would use a broadhead that was 3 inches long and 1 inch wide.
Using a broadhead like that on a whitetail is like using a .500 Nitro Express on a whitetail. WHY? I'm not concerned with penetration on a whitetail. Thirty pounds will double lung one. I'll choose less penetration and a bigger hole. Shorten the length and add that to width.
Just my opinion and my blood trails aren't very long. On whitetails or others. To be honest, I use the Snuffer for whitetails and on two moose a number of elk I use a 160 STOS. Similar to DNEWER's.
I think we kind of wondered off subject. I've never killed anything with a single bevel, but I have tried to sharpen them and that's one of the reasons I don't shoot them.
Bowmania
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From: deerhunt51
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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I agree with above that hole length trumps hole size every time. I have said so in my post for years. I shoot for the exit, if that would be a bad shot, I wait.
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From: Okaw
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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I use Tuff Heads to get good penetration on wild boar with a 45# bow. Does the job.
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From: DesertMuelys
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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First year useing 265 gr. screw in Meathead on a Mule Deer Doe w/ 45# recurve. Blew completely threw her spraying out both sides w/ a 55 yard recovery. Had planned on using Simmons Tree Shark 250 gr. but wind was blowing super hard and did not want it to plane w/ it being 2" cut. I find sharpening the single bevel meathead the easiest broadhead to sharpen. I use a Lanskey stone hand held and follow the bevel to the tip and removing the bur on opposite side gets me sharp as sh_ _ results.The design of the Tuffhead 3:1 ratio single bevel and those similar is MY OPINION the best for those not so perfect shots on Heavy Thick Bone. God Bless..
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From: Supernaut
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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My neighbor and good friend Jason owns and makes Tuffheads right across the road from my house. You won't meet a nicer guy who is more passionate about putting out a great head. You could send him a message on their Facebook page or email him from the website and I'm sure he'd be happy to answer any of your questions.
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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Wudstix, They were made by MA-3 people and fit on a shaft called an AFC. No mention any were on the outside of the package of 'single bevel'. Might have been before the name came into existence?
Bowmania
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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Box of 6 with a Snuffer in the lower right hand corner.
Bowmania
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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I better start loosing weight, my thumb looks fat!!!
Bowmania
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From: Dale in Pa.
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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How would you sharpen a single bevel 3 blade? Seems impossible to get that angle with any conventional sharpening system.
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From: Wudstix
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Date: 26-Dec-20 |
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Bowmania; I am a Snuffer 160 fan and have shot them since the 70's. I'm a 3 blade fan; VPA and Grizzly Instinct. Just got these Meatheads in a trade they look like decent hog medicine.
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From: todd
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Date: 29-Dec-20 |
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I have used meatheads last few years with great results. To the point, that it is all I use after I used one head to harvest few animals.
Example was this buck in picture taken on 11-14-2020. I was hunting on ground, he came in 18 yards away. Had some brush between me and him when shot. I thought he was broadside, but was slightly quartering too me. The wood arrow passed through, hanging out otherside, got snapped off as he ran in a circle around me, and went down.
The meathead, went through the back of the shoulder, cut front lobe of both lungs, heart and exited behind opposite shoulder. Just an example of "plan B" happening and outcome still great.
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From: Wudstix
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Date: 29-Dec-20 |
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I'll have one in GN side quiver for use on hogs, along with Grizzly Instinct and VPA for comparison. Probably have some Snuffer 160's along, as well all flying well on their respective arrows and sharp.
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From: Brian Blackak
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Date: 29-Dec-20 |
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Mike, the KME knife sharpener works GREAT on single bevels, just go to youtube and watch Ron work on a grizzly. Good luck to You My friend, Brian...
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From: Supernaut
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Date: 30-Dec-20 |
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Brassbandit X2.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread if the OP or anyone else has any questions on Tuffhead broadheads reach out to Jason the owner of Tuffhead. I'm 100% positive he'd be happy to help.
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From: Knifeman
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Date: 31-Dec-20 |
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Brassbandit, having spent the hundred of hours hunting and hanging out with Bowmania I can tell you that you are full of it. You think you know someone by the post on a website? You need to seriously read before you submit, you are one of the most rude posters on here, IMO.
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From: BigJim
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Date: 31-Dec-20 |
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BigJim is a Stickbow.com Sponsor - Website |
I have never used them, but like all broadheads before and after, they are the best that ever existed... until someone loses an animal with one.
If you tune properly, they will fly great for you as will any broadhead. If they are sharp, and you put them in the right spot, they will kill fast and leave a great blood trail. If you don't put it in the right spot, you will likely have problems.
I can't tell you how often i have heard that someone has shot an animal perfectly only to lose it... Doesn't work like that.
However, I can tell you how often that I have thought I hit an animal in a certain location only to see something different once recovering the animal.
Sharpen them, get them to fly right, and you will like them. BigJim
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From: Wudstix
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Date: 31-Dec-20 |
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Have some footed Cedar that I recently unearthed with a Snuffer 160, a Zwickey Delta 4, and a Meathead. I'll shoot them side by side to decide who I'll take for hogs along with VPA and Grizzly Instinct.
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From: fdp
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Date: 31-Dec-20 |
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Big Jim summed it up well I would say.
These threads nearly always end up with someone denigrating someone else. As much as anything because folks for some reason think these types of discussions about broadhead and broadhead performance are new. They aren't. They've been going on at least since the 1920's and likely before. Profile, weight, edge grind, none of it is new. Not really anything new other than manufacturing techniques.
Bottom line is it is a LOT more important where you hit the critter than what you hit it with.
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From: Wudstix
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Date: 31-Dec-20 |
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Guess I'll get some experience sharpening a single bevel.
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From: SextonJ
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Date: 25-Feb-21 |
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Not to bring up an old thread, but what does STOS stand for?
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From: Wudstix
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Date: 25-Feb-21 |
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Slicker Than Owl $h1t
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From: DesertMuelys
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Date: 25-Feb-21 |
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Awesome Head , I have the 265 gr screw in. Zipped right through a Mule Deer Doe with blood pumping from both sides, recovery was short and was with a 45# Bear Grizzly. Sharpening was easy with a lanskey stone hand held running down the angle of blade then using the Stihl to touch it up. Heads fly like darts., well built and worth the money.
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