| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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In this thread we will further reduce the bow closer to bow dimensions. Our objective is to lay out the belly.
Before I do I clean the edges of my stave up a little more. My draw knife followed the grain but it tore a little out in a few places and I want to clean the edge up a little with rasp. I try to file anything that might give me a sliver to.
Then I measure center. Stave is 68” so way back when I went to school half of 68” equals 34”.
I mark 34” with a line and a circle. Then a 4” handle so two more lines 2” either side of center. That where I will start fades.
Then 2” fades either side of those lines. This is where I will transition to my limbs.
Bjrogg
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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At the end of the fade I mark the thickness of the limbs. I do this by using my fingers as a guide along the back. I guess I didn’t measure it. Probably something like half inch.
Bjrogg
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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I flip it over and do the same to the other side.
Then I clamp it in vice belly side up and just so fades are past the vice. Then I start removing wood with my draw knife. I’m a little careful the first pass to see how it will act. Sometimes it like to tare out deep and you have to use rasp. This one works great and I can use draw knife.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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A careful pass but nice and clean without taring
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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I make the one pass starting at the fades to check it out but then I like to go closer to the tips. It’s just easier reducing them before the whole limb starts to get a little thin and not as solid.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Then I move to mid limb and then to fades again. You can remove wood fast if it goes good with the knife.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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I like to work edges down at about a 45 degree angle and the come back an clean up the center. I don’t quite go to the line with the knife to avoid taring it.
It is was a clean stave . Snaky but no knots. I timed how long it took me to reduce to just above line with knife. It was 3 minutes and 38 seconds.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Then I finish up with the rasp rounding the edges as I go
Bjrogg
I gotta do something here for a couple minutes I’ll be back
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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I rasp the fades a bit and transition into the limbs. I don’t overdue this. You don’t want to get to thin here. This is where the most stress will be. Right now I would bet if you tried the only place it would bend would be right here.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Here’s first limb. Bjrogg
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Repeat everything on the second limb. This is still just reducing. This part goes pretty fast . From here on out stuff gets fussier. The wood will be removed more carefully.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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I still have to do some heat corrections to get the tips a little closer to lining up with the handle.
I might regret it, but I think I’m going to try some static recurves here. It can get a little tricky with one that is snaky and needing heat corrections. I might just end up looking like a idiot, but it wouldn’t be the first time.
Be watching for static recurves 101
Bjrogg
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| From: Bassman
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Good tutoring.
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| From: D.Lewis aka tonto59
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Approximately how thick are the limbs now. At the end of the fades and at the ends of the tips? I guess you just get the feel after awhile which tool is better to use for what. The draw knife or the rasp. Enjoying this thread. Nice to see the pictures too. Thanks again.
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| From: altitude sick
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Very good explanation and pictures
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 08-Dec-20 |
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Thank You Bassman
Don i Really didnt measure but I would guess about half inch maybe a little better.
Thanks Jay
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| From: Arvin
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Brian you are as fast with that draw knife as I am with my bandsaw. ???????? ???? Arvin
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| From: Arvin
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Brian you are as fast with that draw knife as I am with my bandsaw. ???????? ???? Arvin
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| From: buckeye
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Is there a reason you prefer a vice to a shave horse? I just recently built a shave horse as the self bow bug bit me. It works fairly well for a first attempt. I'm working on a small mulberry stave for my daughter. Thanks for the tutorial. A draw knife is now one of my favorite tools:-)
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Arvin this stave worked great with the knife. Some don’t. Some tear out and some have knots that I have to use the ferries rasp for. Either will reduce Osage pretty quick.
People say how hard Osage is. To me it seems fairly soft. Hard is heat treated Hop Hornbeam.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Buckeye I have never tried a shave horse. I have often thought about making one. I guess space is probably my biggest deterrent. I already get in trouble for taking up to much shop space.
Bjrogg
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Once again I made sure I had everything ready before I took stave out of steam. Clamps all turn screws loose. Just like me.lol
I slide my stave out of the steam and onto the caul. I slide my backer in at the same time. My stave might be slightly thicker than I usually do as it ifs kinda tight. It takes a little extra effort to bend it. I can hear my end of my caul trying to pop off. Good thing I put that bolt through it.
Bjrogg
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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The tip fits on the caul nice.
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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The rest of the limb has a jog in it
I will try to get it with heat gun and clamps. I’m not going to remove the snaky part. I might even end up making it a little snakier.
My objective is to lime up three points. The two tips and the center of the handle. I’m pretty sure this won’t be my last heat correction. I still have a few trick up my sleeve. Bjrogg
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Oops wrong thread should be static recurves 101 thread.
Bjrogg
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| From: George Tsoukalas
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| Date: 09-Dec-20 |
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Very nice. You are fast with the draw knife. Jawge
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| From: Recurveaholic77
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| Date: 10-Dec-20 |
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What are the dimensions on the block you made for the static recurve tips?
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| From: Bjrogg
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| Date: 10-Dec-20 |
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Thanks George I am very comfortable with one. And like I said before this stave worked really well with one. They aren’t always as accommodating.
Ray I’m not sure what dimensions are. I thinking you are asking me about the shape of the end of my caul? I just free handed a curve I thought I would like. This is my second attempt. My first was to long of recurves. I like this shape better. When I first made this one I was thinking it would hold tip with just a straight up notch, but that didn’t work. Then I tried curved block the same shape as recurve. That didn’t work either. Then I used this triangle wedge shape . It works nicely. I can slide tip and backer in and it holds tip in place good. I did pop it off a couple times before I put a bolt through it. It would have popped off for this one if I hadn’t.
Sorry that’s maybe not what you were after. I might try to get some more measurements when I get back to it. Maybe put them on the “ bending static recurves 101” thread where they belong.
Bjrogg
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