From: Warden609
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Date: 19-Nov-20 |
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I am considering trying to use a krylon spray paint for arrows. I was thinking about just taping the arrow and spraying the end a color that trips my trigger.
Does anyone have experience doing this?
Does it need a clear spray finish?
How was feather adhesion? What type of glue was used. I usually use gorilla super glue gel.
I'm interested in any tips. Thanks
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From: Phil Magistro
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Date: 19-Nov-20 |
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Been doing that for a long time. No problems at all.
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From: Warden609
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Date: 19-Nov-20 |
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Thanks for the response. Do you have any particular product recommendations or methods?
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From: SB
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Date: 19-Nov-20 |
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I use Krylon..followed up with a clear poly dip.
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From: Glunt@work
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Date: 19-Nov-20 |
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Works great. Light coats, first one should be semi transparent. On carbons I spray with gloss clear rattle can. On woodies I dip in Polycrylic
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From: Warden609
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I appreciate the responses. First project is going to be some Easton 2216s. Based on the responses, I'm going with light color coats and clear spray gloss. Any thoughts on this method with aluminums?
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From: bowhunt
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I use a small PVC pipe and cut it the length where I want the dip to begin or I should say the spray to begin.No need for tape and you can use the pipe over and over again
I have had real good luck with wipe on minwax using a small piece of T shirt folded into a smaller square and wiping the finish on with it.I usually put on 3 coats.Get rid of any threads that might stick out on the t-shirt
Its easy and works well and the finish is uniform and smooth.Gloss looks better.But Satin or flat is fine.
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From: GUTPILEPA
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I use Krylon all the time
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From: Kanati
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I was thinking of this too. Has anyone painted then put a clear arrow wrap over the paint? I have a bunch of clear wraps.
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From: Phil Magistro
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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You'll need to scuff up the shaft where you want to put the paint. Depending on the color I often put a coat of white on first. I've used lots of different brands but mostly use Rustoleum now. After I crest I overspray with a matte clear.
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From: fdp
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I use Krylon, Rutoleum, auto touch up paint, and the cheap stuff from the dollar store. I've really found no difference.
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From: Dale in Pa.
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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Phil X2. Afterwards I crest and then seal w Rustoleum water based poly. One or two coats for carbon and alum, and 2-4 coats for woods. Fletch with Duco.
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From: Glunt@work
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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On aluminums, clean really well after scuffing them up. I use blue top Gorilla super glue for fletching.
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From: Sawtooth (Original)
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I shoot wood. Spray paint and sharpies. That’s about it. No need to get too fancy.
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From: Jim Davis
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I quit painting and cresting years ago. My arrows are just reusable projectiles, not art projects.
The pipe idea sounds great, if you are going to spray a crown. Could tape the junction of pipe and shaft to get a clean line.
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From: arlone
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I shoot cedars and I've used Krylon and taped off like you plan. I than put a couple coats of gasket laquer, crest with markers or Testor's paint another couple coats of lacquer and use fletching tape with no problems....yet! Good luck and have fun!
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From: aromakr
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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Krylon works good on wood and Carbon, however its a Lacquer base and I think you will find it not the best for aluminum regardless of how you prep the shaft it will flake off. Maybe one of the other vinyl base rattle can product will work better.
Bob
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From: Jon Stewart
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I use this as a base coat and then sprayed with white. I scratch the sprayed area with sand paper first. I let the coats of spray dry for 48 hours each before I continue.
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From: Curt
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I used the rattle can method for years. Never bothered with, or needed a clear coat. The only problem was it was a pain in the a&$ to refletch.
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From: RonL
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I use krylon spray, white then crest with testers, finally coat with min wax water base poly. I use paint brush but people also spray the poly.
RonL
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From: Bfulldraw
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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I use Krylon all the time. I love to use really bright colors like Flourescent Green and Orange. You have to first spray or "dip" them with white to make the colors pop. I also have to sand the edge where the tape lifts up to get rid of the lip. Just a swipe or two with 400 grit is all it takes. After I crest them, I dip them in Minwax Polycrylic 6 or more coats. This prevents the cresting from getting smeared from shooting off the shelf. I use Duco for fletching and have never had an issue with adhesion.
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From: NY Yankee
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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Tip: Keep the wind at your back.
Krylon works but I have not tried any others. There are several different types now. I found Krylon Fusion to be quite wear resistant on other things. I would use acetone to clean, 3 light coats of color and 2 Krylon clear. Maybe test it on an old shaft first for durability.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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Personally haven’t tried spraying Aluminums . I have sprayed carbons using Rustolouem 2X for outdoor use. I did use the etching primer on a metal riser I just did. I liked the way it went on. As for the actual spraying, I rig up my Spinrite crester with a the shaft taped off. I have a “booth” made from a triangular shipping box. I followed the instructions on the Spinrite website. My only complaint about the paint I use it’s not 2nd coat friendly.
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From: Warden609
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Date: 20-Nov-20 |
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Thanks for all the great responses. I was wondering about possible flaking on the aluminum. Good stuff! Thanks again!!
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From: Rough Run
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Date: 21-Nov-20 |
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I use both Krylon & Rustoleum. 2 things are important for me - I use a Universal Bonding Primer, color is white, and both brands make it. And I use spray Polycrylic now instead of just gloss Poly, because there is a distinct difference in the lack of yellowing with age from the Polycrylic. I let each coat dry for 24 - 48 hours, lightly 'wipe' with 4-0 steel wool between coats. I use fletching tape with a drop of super glue gel on the ends. No problems with adhesion.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 21-Nov-20 |
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Rough Run, goin give your method a try next time. I have noticed the Polycrillic doesn’t yellow. I use the waterbased.
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From: GF
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Date: 21-Nov-20 |
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Anybody know of a color that goes great with Ruby nocks??
Thinking red cap dip and nock with natural barred.
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From: Rough Run
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Date: 21-Nov-20 |
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M60, if you use much white as a cap, you'll see a big difference. White is my favorite, so I use it most. I've even noticed the yellowing on some of my lighter yellow caps. Polycrylic from now on, for me. Hope you like it!
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From: GF
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Date: 21-Nov-20 |
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Actually not Ruby - just clear red....
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From: Nemophilist
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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I've rattle can crowned quite a few arrows, both wood and aluminum.
I do spray a few clear coats of polyurethane over all crown colors except white. For white I use polycrylic it doesn't give a yellow tint over white like polyurethane does. For feather adhesion I use either Bohning Fletch-Tite Platinum or Bohning Feather Fletching Tape.
All wood arrows in this picture.
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From: Nemophilist
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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Aluminum in this picture.
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From: LBshooter
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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That's what I use, just make sure you do it in light layers. Don't put it on to heavy. Follow by a clear coat.
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From: Aeronut
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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I use Krylon all the time. I've had arrows spend the winter under the snow without any problems with the cresting.
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From: Kanati
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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I want to try paint and a clear wrap. I guess that would be just like using poly?
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From: grizz
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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Krylon and polycrylic on aluminum with fletchtite for feathers. I use stain to cap my woodies with gasket lacquer over all.
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From: Krag
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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Have never put a crown on mine... When it comes time to re-fletch do you guys just clean up the shaft and recrown also?
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From: GF
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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When you guys talk about scuffing up aluminums....
What are you using for that? I can imagine that the anodized finishes would not allow much to bond to it.....
And does anybody make a reflective spray paint?
I’m becoming a bigger and bigger fan of anything that makes an arrow harder to lose....
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From: grizz
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Date: 26-Nov-20 |
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Krag, yes I do. It’s pretty cheap and easy. I like wraps too, they’re easy but not nearly as cheap.
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From: Two Feathers
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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"I was thinking about just taping the arrow and spraying the end a color that trips my trigger." That's what I do.
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From: Jon Stewart
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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GF I take a small square of 120 grit sand paper put it around the arrow and twist the arrow back and forth for the 8" cap area this give a criss cross scuff on the arrow.
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From: GF
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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OK, so it doesn’t sound as if you need to get the whole thing down to bare metal or anything like that… I occasionally have a tendency to over-do such things…I guess I’ll perfect my technique on the solid green GGs or some GGIIs that I have around ;)
What’s killing me is that now I have a bee in my bonnet to take a shot at this, and the LAST thing that I really want to do right now is go out and deal with Black Friday shoppers... even at the hardware store…
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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I know what you mean about the shoppers. But my issue is our weather. I spray outside and the high today was only 69*, to cool from what the directions say on my paint can. Goin make some woodies, yellow cap, red cresting with red and yellow spliced feathers.
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From: grizz
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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GF, a lot of your posts hurt my head. It’s not complicated..... really.
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From: MCNSC
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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I haven’t tried this on arrows but I’ve got so on other projects I wipe the items off with a deglosser. First used a deglosser doing furniture refinishing. It really makes spray paint lay on great. I’ve used it as a degreaser on screw and bolt heads that were to be painted and ceramic. Been really pleased with the finish I get with spray paint when using it. May be worth a try.
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From: GF
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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Overthinking. It’s not just What I Do, it’s Who I Am.....
LOL@myself, as always....
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From: DNG55
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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My last set of rattle cans, not sure if ill ever free dip again.
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From: grizz
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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;-)
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From: crow
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Date: 27-Nov-20 |
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do all my arrows with rattle can. I like earth tones so use the Rustoleum self ethching primer, 249322. Tried different brands and had success with Zerorust, especially the black. some of the brand primers do not work well. Lacquer thinner on arrow, tape off. Might try to scruff surface with fine steel wool. I don't do that, But I probably should.
I am using a plastic paint which is supposed to give a rubberized coating. Performix Plasti-Dip, comes in a variety of colors.Using the dark gray green. holding up so far. Using duco cement, which seems to work well. Gave up on feather tape and newer fletch tite. the original Fletch tite was excellent. might try to bond the feather an hour or so after painting. theoretically it bonds better to the paint. Wait till its completely dry as well. Experiment.
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From: Rough Run
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Date: 28-Nov-20 |
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A couple more things that I find helpful for me - 1. I primer an area longer than my cap, so I can crest over the primed area. The white color of the Universal Bonding Primer helps the colors be brighter, along with better adhesion. 2. I made a set of drying rack blocks, so when the temperatures are cooler outside, or the humidity is high, I dry them inside. Laying horizontally is fine - and if you get any runs, you know you've sprayed the coat too heavily.
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From: duckbill
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Date: 28-Nov-20 |
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I build custom arrows for a lot of guys up here and have been using rustoleum for years. On wood grain carbons they look great as well as having many different colors. Here is a swirl that I built using a white crown with a blue swirl dip. Easy to do.
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From: duckbill
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Date: 28-Nov-20 |
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You can get creative and do something out of the box just for the fun of it. Here are some hammered copper paint (also rust oleum) on some aluminums. Try different colors and if you don't like them just wash off with acetone and do another color.
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From: Warden609
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Date: 30-Nov-20 |
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Duckbill, those arrows look great!!
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From: Car54
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Date: 30-Nov-20 |
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Gots some beautiful arrows showing. Good work!!
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From: GF
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Date: 30-Nov-20 |
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I don’t think any of my first six dozen are gonna look anywhere near that good!
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From: duckbill
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Date: 01-Dec-20 |
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Thanks guys, I guess what I was trying to get across was to have fun with it. There is no right or wrong to colors, patterns, crests, or anything else. Create something that is personal to you and go with it. I've used the same "family crest" since the late 1950s, fletching arrows for my dad in his arrow shop. There are so many little tips that you learn over 65 years of doing this stuff that it can't be put into one thread but as to the OPs question rattle can paints open all kinds of possibilities. I use rustoleum and don't have to use primer and also use spray colors for the cresting. One of the hardest things to do is to get the right viscosity for doing fine lines. The rattle can paint is thinner than bottled paint and flows better to achieve very fine clean lines. OK off my soapbox now.....
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From: GF
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Date: 06-Dec-20 |
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OK, so what I really need to know at this point… If I stain the forward part of the shaft, and use the spray paint for the cap/crown....
Wipe-on poly over the whole works??
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From: Krag
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Date: 06-Dec-20 |
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That should work. These POC's came to me painted as the flu flu is with some finished arrows and some shafts. I sanded down the shafts to adjust/match spine, finished with Birchwood Casey Walnut waterbased stain and wiped with Minwax poly.
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From: DNG55
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Date: 06-Dec-20 |
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Here's some garage find cedars I refurbished.
I use painters tape to mark the arrow ,then stain. Allow for the stain to dry well then tape for the crown.Drying time is huge between colors. If you spray over your white base to soon it will orange peel.
For these arrows I used wipe on poly, for aluminum arrows I used clear spray. I use Testor's model paint for the cresting
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 06-Dec-20 |
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DNG55, I found out the hard way about the Orange peel. I contacted Rustolem and they said to wait about 4 days between coats. Something else I ran into recently. Target burn using waterbased Polycrillic. The target material (carpet) stuck to the finish. That’s the first time that’s happened.
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From: fdp
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Date: 06-Dec-20 |
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Sure are some nice arrows in this thread.
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From: DNG55
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Date: 07-Dec-20 |
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M60gunner thanks for the tip. I jumped in on a similar thread over the summer and a bunch of you guys here provided invaluable info... Much appreciated. I free dipped Bohning lacquers for years and prefer this method hands down.Also at the advice of I believe arrowmaker compatibility was huge as well so I used all rustoleum paints and Fletched with Loctite and so far all has worked well
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