From: Dan Jones
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 23-May-20 |
|
I am trying to make a red oak selfbow according to the instructions on Sam Harper's Poor Folks Bows site. I was about to score the wood to glue (with Titebond blue) a handle riser to the bow. Then I remembered reading a thread here some time ago in which it was said by at least one person that wood glue works best if you don't score the wood. I don't remember the name of the thread or exactly how long ago that was, so any help with finding that thread or thoughts on scoring wood or not before gluing will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
|
|
From: Runner
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 23-May-20 |
|
Most just settle for fairly rough sanding. As long as fit is good and the wood is not glass smooth from accidental burnishing then it will be fine with any glue.
|
|
From: fdp
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 23-May-20 |
|
I don't rough up anything before I glue it unless it is absolutely glass smooth.
Like Runner said, make sure the surfaces are well fitted. One I thing I always do though is I put a thin coat of glue on the mating surfaces. Then, when that gets tacky I rewet both pieces and join them. Slide them in opposite directions a couple of times to get the glue to "suck" to the surfaces. then clamp it and let it dry.
|
|
From: Bassman
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 24-May-20 |
|
I rough up every glue joint with a fine hack saw blade, which works well for me be it epoxy or Tb2 or 3., or hide glue. We all have our own thoughts, but if it works it works. It is just another choice.
|
|
From: Eric Krewson
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 24-May-20 |
|
I rough them with a toothing plane iron up but I am using Unibond glue, it likes a rough surface.
|
|
From: JusPassin
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 24-May-20 |
|
If the glue can be absorbed slightly into the surface of the wood you'll get a stronger joint. The type of wood your gluing will dictate that. Don't clamp so tight you get a "dry" joint also.
|
|
From: Stoner
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 24-May-20 |
|
When using wood glue the smoother, flat surface , no voids, does not have to be smooth as glass, the better. When I was in working in the cabinet shop, this was our procedure. As wood glue is NOT gap filling. So do not use a hacksaw blade to scrape or really coarse sand paper.
Epoxies are thick and can be used if a coarse or non-uniform surface will be present.
Just my two cents, John
|
|
From: Pa Steve
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 24-May-20 |
|
Agree with John's 2 cents. What he said is the manufacturer's recommendation for TB wood glues.
|
|
From: Jeff Durnell
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 24-May-20 |
|
What Fdp said, if using Titebond, or similar, get a perfect fit, and have the gluing surfaces prepped with medium/fine grit sandpaper. Size all gluing surfaces with glue, let it sit until tacky/80% dry, then glue everything wet again, and assemble. This keeps the wood from acting like a dry sponge and sucking away some of the glue you expect to be used at the joint.
It doesn't have gap filling properties, so, no gaps.
|
|
From: Phil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 24-May-20 |
|
Rough up the surface as others have said ....
,,, being a huge pedant ... if you're glueing a handle riser to the bow body , it's no longer a self bow.
|
|
From: George Tsoukalas
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 25-May-20 |
|
Why not read the directions for the glue you are using? Jawge
|
|
From: Dan Jones
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 25-May-20 |
|
Phil: Really?
Jawge: Directions for Titebond II say that the surfaces must be clean and dry and fit tightly. They do not address my question.
Thanks to all who respnded to my question.
|
|
From: Phil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 25-May-20 |
|
yes ... It's a single piece of wood or at least it has been in my part of the world for the last 700 years
|
|
From: Runner
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 25-May-20 |
|
In most areas that has long since been modified in a sensible manner. A spliced bow is still a selfbow and a glued on riser that does nothing but add thickness and no function in the working of the bow does not disqualify them anymore.
You can find "rules" as to what those allowances are. Often it's a limitation on the distance a glued on riser can extend up the limb.
|
|
From: 6bloodychunks
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 25-May-20 |
|
if youre talking about a red oak board bow,
id go with an "at least" 30 minute epoxy instead of titebond.
ive made a few red oak board bows with glued on handles, and used the permatex 30min epoxy, its only $4 at tractor supply.
|
|
From: George Tsoukalas
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 25-May-20 |
|
Titebond 3 is waterproof. T2 is water resistant.
Dan, I would not score it; clean and dry and fit tightly means no scoring to me.
I've been working wood for years not including bows. Never scored or roughed up wood for a wood glue.
Jawge
|
|
From: BAbassangler
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 25-May-20 |
|
DO NOT SCORE alaphatic resin gluing surfaces. Do some research or even a test block, (destructive test). Don't need to sand much if all. Smooth, not slick.
|
|
If you have already registered, please sign in now
For new registrations Click Here
|
|
|