| From: MikeWinVA
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| Date: 10-May-20 |
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I am in the tillering process of a Mollegabet bow.
It has 16" working limbs, 9" static limbs and a 6" handle for a total of 56". The working limbs are 2" wide and .410" after the fade and tapered about .002 per inch towards the tips. I have trapped the working limbs. The static limbs are .75" The tips are built up about 2" like siyahs and .75" thickness and depth. I am aiming for a 40-45# bow
I am building it out of Hickory and have not chased the growth rings. Should I back this bow? And if so with raw hide, silk(old brown tie) or sinew?
I understand that hickory is great in tension but can be overpowered in compression.
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| From: GF
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| Date: 10-May-20 |
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How primitive do you want it to be?
I’ve heard tyvek is almost miraculous when properly applied with good epoxy... but rawhide with hide glue would certainly have more flavor...
I think if you didn’t chase the rings properly, you’d better back it with something, though.
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| From: MikeWinVA
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| Date: 10-May-20 |
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I had read that hickory didn't have to be chased, I have built a 72" flat bow that has lasted about a year out of it.
I want to protect the back, but don't want to overpower the belly.
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| From: GF
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| Date: 10-May-20 |
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I’m sure somebody here can help you out… I have about exhausted my knowledge base on the subject, so I’m just gonna listen from here on out. ;)
But the Holmegaards and the Molles do fascinate me.../
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| From: Runner
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| Date: 10-May-20 |
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You don't need to back Hickory. How far do you intend to draw this bow?
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| From: Phoenix
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| Date: 11-May-20 |
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I've built that same specs molly with hickory unbacked before. No need to back it if you have good sound non knicked/gouges n clean wood as your back. Mine was a slight bend in the handle bow that drew 55@28" easily,and was very healthy and retaining a couple inches of reflex. Shot like a demon. Not an easy build for a newer guy. But totally doable. Heat treat the hickory deep and long. If your keeping the handle static I wouldn't take the draw length more than 24ish inches Imho.
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| From: Runner
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| Date: 11-May-20 |
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Is this a board bow?
You don't chase rings when just using a debarked stave.
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| From: Bassman
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| Date: 11-May-20 |
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Your outer growth ring under the bark, and cambium is the back on a Hickory self bow provided you didn't violate it as said above.If built properly no need to back it. Like a lot of other white woods it is strong in tension, and weak in compression. After a good belly heat treat I also trap the back. The Molly's that I made that failed, fretted just in front of the fades,and seemed to have a little more hand shock than a pyramid design. Maybe my bow making skills at the time. Good luck with yours.
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