59 Kodiak 45lb@30” / 31” min arrow length with 125gr point.

I have some 50/55 and 60/65 made up for other bows. Neither seemed to fly to great.

I have never got in-depth on tuning cedar arrows

Was always told to go by the 10lb over draw weight rule.

However at my draw and arrow length the couple spine charts I have Referenced suggest I should be at a much higher spine.

What would y’all suggest?

Any tips on tuning cedars would be appreciated as well.

You tune them like any other arrow. Consider actual draw weight, arrow length, point weight, actual centershot measurement and string material, and string nock location.

Can't really help based on the description of the arrows never really flying well.

There is no rule really that says to be 10# over regular. There are circumstances that create different dynamic needs. A longer draw on any weight will require a stiffer arrow, but you can't just say how much. Part of tuning is to understand what you are doing to know what you need. Not being smart alecky there...just being truthful. String type, tip weight, amount of center cut in the bow, glove or tab, and even how consistent your release is can all affect needed spine at certain lengths. You really need to try arrows through a series of static spine to get to what you want, not just accept a certain range of spine.

Add 5lbs. of spine for every inch over 28". Add 5lbs. for tip weight over 159. Add 10 lbs. for low stretch strings, add or decrease spine by 1 spine group for every 1/16" change in center shot.

Since you have some questionable arrows already, try different head weights and see if flight improves. Shoot more or less vertical while testing.

At that draw length and weight I'd say at least a 65-70# spine for a 125gr head. But could even need 70-75, particularly if you ever go above 150gr or so for the head.

Work the possibilities, that is why we call it tuning and each person can be totally different even using like equipment.

This one went comical in a hurry, didn’t it??

ROFL

fdp gave the best advice. And he knows some things.

I tried to work it out for myself years ago and ended up #20 too heavy by following the advice of one of those guys you’re not allowed to say anything about around here unless you are praising his every utterance to the highest heavens.

I tried it with woodies and Stu’s calculator and very quickly discovered that as with every other Program, it’s Garbage In, Garbage Out. That’s “GIGO” for all you hipster millennials. ;)

If you don’t know exactly what your arrows weigh (give or take maybe 10 grains) you’re sorely limited.

Question: How are you evaluating whether these are “tuned” or not.

FWIW, I had to get my shooting down pretty good before I had any luck with tuning. And before I was able to do that… I had to go back to using what the guy at the local shop had set me up with to begin with… 25 years earlier, when guys at local shops still knew their way around a recurve. I had been shooting a lot better 20 years earlier, but the arrows I had picked out for myself were just NOT WORKING. So there’s a lot to be said for taking the advice of one of these Old Dudes like Frank (FDP) or George or Gary (GLF) among many others here who ran archery shops back in the day. They can almost certainly get you close enough that with a reasonably generous fletching you will be able to send your arrows consistently down the middle, and that’s where you have to start.

If you’re going to insist on doing it all by yourself, you might be able to get somewhere with the Calculator if you solve for the correct aluminum shaft, assuming that you can find one that finishes at about the right all-up weight; the dynamic spine of the arrow has to match the requirement of the bow, but that is dependent on the payload… So you kind of have to work both ends of the problem to find a solution.

I pretty much follow the 5# rules stated above. I also like my finished arrows to be 10-12 gpp of draw weight minimum.

My advice?

Get a test kit of 31" bop arrows built up by a seasoned fletcher.

But...

Following fdp's advice above ^^^^ this is the best answer given by evilfirbolg:

"At that draw length and weight I'd say at least a 65-70# spine for a 125gr head. But could even need 70- 75, particularly if you ever go above 150gr or so for the head."

*****

I would add that if you used full length 32" raw shafts and went with the 70-75 group with 125gr point you could cut down the finished arrows to fine tune.

Your looking at roughly 49/50# at 30", but in reality you should scale your bow to be sure what your draw weight at 30" really is.

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