From: B arthur
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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What is the purpose of Heat treating the belly of a selfbow? How do you do it?
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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When done correctly it plasticizes the wood cells. The result is wood that holds its heat induced shape much better and the wood becomes more responsive. In the end, it adds huge performance to nearly any bow wood. I wouldn't build a white wood bow and not temper it. Same goes for locust and mulberry. I recently finished an osage bow I tempered. It held over 3" of reflex and shoots lights out for a 41 pounder. There is no way I could have made that happen with just heat shaping. The heat has to go from the belly through to the back, or its not working properly. It takes a good while to temper a bow. Clamp the handle of your blank/bow on a caul. Grab your heat gun and turn it to high. Holding the heat gun 3-4" away from the belly. Start at the fade and work your way to the tips clamping it down and shaping/straightening it as you crawl along.
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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PD that's a heck of an answer.
Bowmania
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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Its the short version, but hopefully it makes some sense of it.
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From: Bjrogg
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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I agree with Pearl. Some wood respond better than others. I do the same as Chris. I heat treat on my on my caul shaping stave as I go. I like to have bow tillered fairly close to what I want to end up with so I don’t remove everything heat treated tillering. If you don’t think it does anything to the wood try heating up till black a piece of Hop Hornbeam. Then try to rasp or scrape it. It’s hard as glass. Or as they say fire hardened.
Warning you want to really cook the belly. It usually takes me about 45 minutes a limb. Heat treatments are good for compression, but terrible for tensions. Try to avoid having the heat scorching the back of bow.
Bjrogg
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From: Bassman
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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A different way that has been brought to light recently is called "fire hardening". It involves a pit about 6 feet long, and a foot wide, and charcoal lined on the bottom. The bow is shaped as desired on a form, and placed on top of the pit, and heat treated under a controlled method of raising ,and lowering the form as the heat is needed. Some guys on Primitive forum have been playing with this method recently with good results. When the weather gets stable I will build a pit, and give it a go with Elm, and Birch wood.I have been building bows for years using PD's explanation above with good results, but on the Primitive forum guys love to experiment. I do also.
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From: B arthur
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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Thank you gentlemen. That helps. What if the bow is backed with raw hide and partially tillered can it still be heat treated?
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From: Phoenix
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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No..you'll destroy the glue bond trying to temper it.
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From: B arthur
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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I figured you'd say that. LOL.
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From: TrapperKayak
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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What do you use for a 'heat gun'? Thanks. TK
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From: Bjrogg
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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I have a TackLife 1500 watt but there are lots of others that would work.
Bjrogg
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 02-Apr-20 |
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I use Wagners. Right now its the Furno 2-stage. About a $25 tool.
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