Hey guys I could use some help. Really wanting to make the switch to traditional. Been bowhunting for years and have shot recurves, but have never really applied myself to work at it like I should. My question is I bought a sage recently with 30lb limbs to get started shooting. I'd like to shoot carbons but as stated before the charts give me an idea but I know you guys know much more than myself. In your opinion what spine should I start with? I know i can play with brace height and point weight, length, etc. But where should I even begin? I draw 27" and have a 16 strand fast flight on the bow.

Oh planning on shooting off a weatherest too if that matters

assuming its centershot id get some 700s {dark timbers maybe}and change the 16 strand for a 10 or 8 ff

I'd just call Big Jim, talk to him and order what he tells you to. You're going to get so many different opinions you're going to be toatlly confused.

Then, go to the expense of buying you a test kit of arrows. A couple of about 3 or 4 different spines in the length you want to shoot. Then in the future you can easily get the answer on your own.

I shoot a 33# bow and draw 26". I use Easton Inspires and Vector 1400's. I switched to Inspires because the Vectors come with a 60 grain point where the Inspires you have a choice of 60 grain points or 90 grain points. I felt the Vector 1400's were still a little stiff so I wanted a heavier point. They fly quite well for me. Started with Easton Vector 1000's and they were too stiff. But as fdp said the best thing to do is a little experimenting on your own. You'll figure it out. The charts I feel are being on the cautious side so arrows aren't too weak for your bow. Of course, that's just my personal opinion.

you are most likely to move up in draw weight sence ohio is a 40lb. state sooo..600 or 700 full lenth will probably serve you well. don't buy a bunch of arrows for your 30lb. bow. don't cut your arrows. if you are near Portsmouth send me a pm. ron

If you install a plunger ,and flipper rest you will be able to shoot more than one spine.I have a sage set up like that, and shoot 20-40 Predators with 100 gr head at 29 inch long arrow, and my draw weight for that bow is 32 lbs.I use a 10 strand D97 FF string. I didn't want to buy any more arrows. 700's would be more practical ,but I made these work just fine. Those bows are cut past center shot, and with a plunger,and flipper tune nicely with different spines.In my case if the arrow would have spined strong I could have added point weight, and left the arrow a little longer ,and adjusted plunger,and still would be able to tune that arrow.

Thanks guys.I was leaning towards the 700s and wanted some feedback.I appreciate it. And yes gluetrap, you nailed it as far as I will be moving up in weight and don't want to drop a bunch on a pile of arrows for the 30 limbs.

I would choose 800 spine arrows. At that draw weight, it's less about the spine and more about arrow weight.

Your a new shooter and unlikely that you will be able to tune arrows for some time anyway.. it takes consistancy to tune.

Buy 6 arrows and if you go through those, get more if need be.

We sell an 800 spine that will take screw in inserts so you can adjust point weight. We also sell 900s and 1400s that only accept glue in points.

6 - 800 spine dark timber arrows for about $50 6 - 900 spin inspires for about $35

You could really shoot a 900 or even a 1000 spine, but don't think you will gain much advantage. BigJim

Full length Jim?

Well, you can't stretch them if you cut them too short. Lots of people don't like the extra shaft sticking out past the bow, but if it helps you shoot, then I would say leave it.

I think you will likely want the extra length. Thanks, BigJim

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