When tapering an 11/32 arrow in the tip end, I set the tip pin at 7/8" and taper the 5 degree angle. What I am running into is I get a light ridge right at the 7/8" mark.

I have tried moving the sanding disk back some, but did not like the fit of the tips, so I ended up moving it back.

I don't mind the ridge, the tip fits well, and it increases the flushness of the back of the tip, making it easier to remove from a bag target.

Is it normal to get the ridge, or do I need to work on it some more and make the ridge go away?

thanks oz

sand paper might be out from disc or contact cement under?

maybe not so long of a taper would be nicer?

Oz. Any adjustments to the position of the disc will be very slight, First make sure the disc is running true, absolutely no wobble, if there is remove the disc and clean out the shaft hole. There should be a flat on the motor shaft, be sure the set screw is tightening on that flat, and that the motor shaft is also free of any gunk.

Bob

Thanks guys

I had the same issue. What worked for me was turning the sanding disk clockwise so the shaft runs parallel rather then crashing into it. Philip

Any-bears

did you just loosen the screw at the back of the motor and rotate the motor clockwise to turn the sanding disk?

That makes sense, so was my 5 degree and 11 degree angle always off a little because the motor was tweaked a little?

I guess I will take a protractor and measure the angles and use that to align the motor so the sand paper is where it should be.

thanks.

oz

Do I have to measure angles or can I just align the sandpaper with the back of the tray?

Hmmm I am going to go looking for a manual for this thing online.

oz

Don’t do it, Oz!!! You’ll lose your Man Card for sure!!!

I’ve always said..... When all else fails, read the destructions....

Thanks GF But I cannot find much on the interweb anyways. The Google didn't come up with much for me. I assume the Woodchuck archery mfg. co. is no longer in business. And there is like no trace of a web-site for them.

I did find similar questions on archery forums, and I have the answer I need "I think" and both of the above gentlemen were right, it is the alignment of the motor. I think if I turn the motor clockwise it will eliminate the ridge.

Although on one forum I found an arrow maker in Alaska who posted in 2006 ish, that he owned 4 woodchuck taper machines one for nock end.

one for tip end of an 23/32, one for 11/32, and one for 5/16. The reason for 3 different machines for tip end was to mis- align the motor on purpose and create the ridge I am trying to eliminate. He claimed it was too much work to re-align the motor for different diameters, so he aligned each to create a ridge on 3 different diameters.

I see a slight benefit to the ridge, but wonder if it will compromise the strength of the tip which is already the weak spot.

oz

Big Oz.

The easiest way to tune the machine is get an old shaft, run a point taper on it an then check the taper for fit using a new field point. It should fit the point without any wiggle, if it wiggles determine if its too small at the tip or the back of the taper and adjust slightly, cut part of the shaft taper off and try again and keep doing until the fit is perfect. Then lock the adjustment down. When the fit is correct for the point is should also be correct for the nock.

Bob

Thanks Bob

is the 7/8 of an inch for the tip taper length a good number also? I am not sure where I got that number, but it is stuck in my head that the point taper needs to be 7/8"

oz

Ozzie:

3/4" to 7/8" is plenty of point taper.

Bob

I have one that was given to me and I just can't figure that dang thing out. Guess I know why he gave it to me.

I adjusted the motor angle so that extra reveal of raw wood was gone.

So here’s a question… If I want to make up some tapered arrows, do I need to make any adjustments between nock tapers at probably 5/16” and point tapers at 22 or 23 64ths??

That’s what I wondered… Thanks!

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