OK, a couple of weeks ago I submitted a post regarding a method of reducing point on that I was using by adding weight---weed trimmer line to carbons. I felt that I needed to provide an update as things appeared better at first than they actually were. I was able to get field points and broadheads to hit well together with this set up. I started playing with a bareshaft a couple fof days later to confirm tune (the full length 700 had tuned very well w 125 up front sans trimmer line). I shot out to 25 yards today with the bareshaft and it was flying waaaay left (weak for this lefty) and doing a total nose dive. Figuring that something had changed drastically at my end, I checked my form, draw length, etc. It was only after I popped the nock and removed the strands that the bareshaft showed correct tune. Apparently the 4 inch feathers corrected things enough to get broadheads flying down the line, but knowing what the bareshaft was doing (and what might happen if feathers got wet or release was less than good), I have since dumped the weed trimmer line---I may still use it for indoor 3 and 5 spot as fletched field points fly well, but then again I do like a very well tuned arrow. I have to believe that even though the broadheads were impacting with the field tips, I might get less than optimal penetration based on the bareshaft results. Meanwhile I had gone back to some tuned bemans for hunting and was able to take a nice doe Monday night. I know there are many other ways to get to a heavier arrow than stuffing things into a light arrow---like buying arrows another spine group or two heavier and using more tip weight. I also know that they make arrows out of other materials... Fortunately in the weight range of bows I shoot, i have no shortage of spine and weight ranges available in carbon. The above is just my experience, and could be related to some quirk in my form and may never happen to others that have added weight. I just felt that I should set the record straight on what further testing yielded.

Rifleman, this might surprise you. It's a quote from the tuning bible.

"If a person is so inclined, you do not have to tune your arrows with bare shafts and field points. A person can go straight to broadhead tuning. Bare shaft tuning using the planing method is useful to either get close to the correct broadhead weight, so you don't have to buy a bunch of broadheads, or if you are only going to target shoot with target or field points and never shoot broadheads. This broadhead tuning method and the bare shaft planing method are exactly the same thing for the same reasons.

For tuning purposes, we should use the biggest/widest/nastiest broadheads possible. If you try to do your tuning with very narrow broadheads you will not be tuned as well as you could be. Once you are tuned up with wide broadheads you can change over to narrower heads of the same weight with no problems. However if you tune up with narrow heads then try to switch over to wider heads, you'll find you weren’t as well tuned as you thought you were. I prefer to use Snuffers for tuning, then I can go to any matched weight narrower head I desire depending on the game I'm after."

Bowmania

Thanks Todd. That crossed my mind as i use fairly narrow broadheads--- stingers, grizzlies, and 3 blade vpa. They are pretty well behaved--- im sure, as you said i would have picked up on a tuning issue if id been using a wider profile broadhead. Ive even gotten good flight w the narrower heads above and wet feathers. I will have to try a wide head sometime and see what it tells me.

I guess my recent findings will keep me using bareshafts for confirmation. I mess around w arrows way too much--- but am always learning...

What did surprise me was the negative effect of the trimmer line, that showed up through the bareshaft. Once removed, the bareshafts flew spot on again.

Was the trimmer line the full length of the shaft? Or was it short pieces fixed in place?

I am always happy to see people trying things out and I like your posts. I was really intrigued with your post with the "point on" chart. The amount of arrow drop after 20 metres on the heavier shaft was an eye opener.

Thanks Peter! The trimmer line was just a bit short of full length for these arrows ( i had previously tried it in shorter arrows). Many times when i went to remove it i found it wedged in place in the insert. After the effect i got on the bareshaft, i doubt I'll be using it again. At least it was one of my more inexpensive lessons.

I wonder if the stiffness of the trimmer line affected the ability of the arrow to properly flex when bending around the riser after the release?

It seems to me it would add stiffness to the shaft and make it harder to bend. Or the line might be distributed around the inside of the shaft in a spiral, making it have strong amd weak spots.

Just looking at other possibilities.

I tried the pipe cleaners as someone suggested, got the wt I wanted and thought I was good to go. After a half dozen shots, I took the nock off and found that they had compressed down the shaft about 4”. I shot some more and they went down farther. I can only assume that they will continue until they can’t compact anymore. This will put all the additional weight to the point end of the arrow. This is not the result I was looking for as it would have to affect spine with all the wt toward the point. I’m going to try wt tubes next. Thanks John

ive never had acceptable results with trimmer line. It seems ok for a few shots then it moves around and weird things happen...

Years ago tried weed eater line. Basically same results as Rifleman. Just wasn't for me.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here