wondering if anyone has painted the full shafts? Any tips on adhesion, durability, clear coat top coat? Thanks

Never did the full shaft. Crowned dipped the top 10" a lot. I always wiped the shaft with laquer (sp?) and dipped in fletch lac. Clear fletch lac over top for nice finish.

think would be a step down form the anodized finish on them

would wear off

crown dip would be my limit

Yep. I used to paint green gamegetters when the finish wore off.

Sand them good, wipe them down with lacquer thinner as above and use the Krylon or Rust-o-leum paint that's made for metal and aluminum.

Probably wouldn't hurt a thing to seal the paint with VHT wheel sealer. Its made for abuse and shafts certainly get abused.

I'd add to be sure whatever your final coat is gonna be to make sure your fletching adhesive is compatible with

I used Rustoleum in a light powder blue/ sky blue color and sprayed my 2117's down full length. Came out great. Used Testors paints for the crest and Saunders NP4 for feathers. I wanted to replicate my first Forgewoods that were fully dipped sky blue.

In the sun...

In the shade...

I forgot the white base coat before the final color coat. A couple of friends that were in the arrow making business came over and we did about 90 aluminum arrows. We had electric fence wire strung across my garage with arrows hanging from clothespins. They always dipped white first, then the color, then clear coat. The arrows turned out perfect. Legacy and camo hunter shafts all crown dipped yellow.

Thanks Joe Actually you inspired this idea with a pic I saw of you in the woods with some fully painted shafts. Im looking at white with white feathers and a small crest of orange mid feather and an orange nock One complete Ill post a pic

Those blue are extremely hard to lose and look great. These were the fully dipped white ones I made up using Rustoleum that your referring to.

Fletched them up for visibility

WOW, those are pretty! Did you happen to weigh the shafts to see weight gain?

Not enough spray paint to alter the physical weight. All finished arrows came in 540-547 grains.

Never did understand an obsession with arrow appearance.

DDave

I don't know Dave. Life is too short to shoot ugly arrows. Besides that's what winter saturday afternoons are for...painting up arrows to lose later. Tedd

Excellent response Tedd..lol

What is VHT?

beauty is in the eye of the beholder. good flying arrow is a beautiful thing :)

"What is VHT?" A brand of automotive paint. (Very High Temperature) They make paint for exhaust headers and other high temp applications. They also make a clear coat for wheels that folks (like me) have used as a finish for bows. Pretty good stuff.

Never have used VHT. But it sounds like tough paint/sealer.

“Our very high temperature (VHT) flameproof automotive paint is designed for exterior and interior dress-up application, capable of withstanding temperatures of up to 2000°F.”

Do you find any difference in the top coats, in relation to friction pulling from the target?

I just put a generic poly on mine for a finish coat because that is what I had, I have found they pull from the target harder than I would like.

oz

And here I’d always thought that aluminum and cap dipping (or wraps) made as much sense as a synthetic/stainless flint-lock.

I stand corrected.

Sorry I did not do a close read and I am working with wood not aluminum. I will not hi-jack this thread, I will go away and ask my question elsewhere. Sorry

oz

I have Bear painted aluminums from the 60's. Nothing new...

Why crown dip and crest? EASY verification of a it from your stand. It also helps to ID the hit location by what left on the arrow.

And easier to see in flight!

Good post. Enjoyed reading the post.

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