| From: GF
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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Is that a thing? With Aluminum...
I have this nice #59 spine tapered cedar that shot perfectly at 20. Soooo.... never happy with that, I backed out to about 35-40 and saw it plane off to the right and down into the dirt, where of course it snapped off right behind the taper of the 190-grain point I had on there...
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| From: GF
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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So if I were to do this... would I just snap the shaft farther back?
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| From: Bowlim
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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I think I have seen that done. Would it just break at the end of where you have footed it with metal? Yes and no. The support further back means load will be less in ratio to the degree back you footed it. But with that simple approach, you would also create a stress riser, unless you took steps to avoid that. How all that would work out in the end is hard to say.
It is common to do this very thing on everything from spears to shovels, but they are normally pretty careful to reduce the chance of stress risers.
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| From: Mike E
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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Never tried it, don't know how well the aluminum would glue to the wood, and you're going to have space at the end of the shaft for the insert, I would think 3-4" of footing or so would be a starting point. Can't hurt to try a shaft or two.
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| From: streamguy
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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I've used the internal footing jig from 3 Rivers to foot some cedar shafts. I use a 3" piece of 1/8 steel rod epoxied in from the tip of the taper down into the shaft. My experience is that they last much longer for stumping. I have had a couple break at the end of the steel. I'd also say they arent as tough as an ash or laminated birch shaft - but they're much lighter to set up for lighter draw bows. Matt
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| From: Jon Stewart
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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GF, give it a try. If you don't have aluminum scraps to do I probably do and will send what ever you need to give it a go. Just givem hell and let us know how it works.
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| From: GF
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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“you're going to have space at the end of the shaft for the insert”
Well, Nope!
Selden Slider sent me a few absolutely GORGEOUS arrows he wasn't using, which were footed with 3” of aluminum and had a screw-in insert up front, and they shot wonderfully for me... right up ‘til I snapped ‘em off at the rear of the footing. I’m holding onto those because they deserve to be re-fitted with reparrow footings....
So I was wondering what happens when the aluminum overlaps the taper and the front of the shaft....
May have to test that ;)
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| From: Mike E
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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Apprantly I misunderstand how the footing would work. doesn't it act as a sleeve that fits over the end of the shaft therefor going to the end of shaft that's being footed, wood in this instance. Or does it just cover the end and not to base of the shaft?
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| From: GF
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| Date: 24-Nov-19 |
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Sorry, Mike - I think my first picture was a little misleading… Here’s what I was thinking to accomplish....
Not that I would need to overlap to this extent, but maybe at least overlap the tapered section of the FP to provide a good, solid connection metal-to-metal...
What’s kinda crazy, though.... I had that one cedar flu-flu with a glued-on Judo on it, and that thing lasted for YEARS....
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