Let me restate....Ok, I give up. tuning a new to me whip, left handed. 3555s w 100 gn inserts and 200 up front. The whip says 49 @ 29. so I'm guessing I'm at 43@27. (or S0) I'm bare shaft tuning. Initially I was hitting way high and right. I thought oh no. I first wanted to get the bow shooting the correct height, so I tried to raise my nock height. I played with the brace height a bit, and managed to get the height right. Arrows are straight just way right for a left handed shooter...I packed tape on the strike plate, seemed to help a bit. so I installed a weather rest I had around. that thing is way off the bow...still I am way right. I tried a heavier arrow, 5575not any better.

I'm not a coach or 'the best', just a left handed archer.

Bare shafts hitting right of fletched shafts are stiff for a lefty. Raising the brace height accommodates a stiff arrow, but your plate should be thinner. I've used two pieces of electrical tape for a plate to accommodate stiff arrows. Lighten the string if you can. Replace brass nocking points with tied on points and reduce the silencer weight. String puffs are light and work well. You can try heavier arrow points or weaker arrows.

Nice bow, good luck.

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

Youre too stiff. Have any 600's laying around? Possibly even a 700. 40ish pounds a 500 spine is gonna be way too stiff unless you use full length and a butt ton of weight and the shelf is cut way past center. When i shoot 40# im using a .600 spine with 125 up front. Also depends how centershot the bow is. Too many variables to give a solution, but youre definately way too stiff. A test kit of 500 to @ least 700 spine sounds like a start.

Brian is right on.

Thanks guys. i really appreciate it I'll try a lighter arrow.

Hi Larry, in addition to being left handed, and in addition to having a 27" draw, I shoot Toelke bows exclusively. My Whip, which is 42@28 and about 39# at my 27" draw likes a full length (32.5") Dark Timber in .700 spine with 125 up front. The bareshaft shows just a bit weak and the broadheads and field points fly down the line.

My PIKA which is 44#@27" tunes well with a 30.5" beman mfx .600 spine and 200 grains up front. The PIKA also tunes very well with a DT .800 spine 28" with 200 up front. I've pretty much settled on no more than 200 grains up front with these bows and as with the Whip even less. As you did, I first used an arrow that was too stiff (.500s) once I found the right spine it was like a light went on and the arrows shot down the line.

I shoot my bows 3 under---the PIKA is Apache the Whip is tillered split. I start my tuning with nock height adjustments and almost always end up with 23/32" (measured to the bottom of the top nock point)---with skinnier shafts. If I move up in shaft diameter, it seems that these bows want a bit higher nocking point. I always use 2 nocking points. You're high hits could be nock height---but I have also gotten high hits from an overly stiff shaft that bounced off of the strike plate.

Don't give up. Don't get discouraged----you have the best bow made (in my opinion). Just move into some lighter spine arrows and good things will happen. Feel free to PM me anytime.

The discription of nocking point placement is always confusing. "Put it at 3/8's." Above what? "Above parallel." Parallel to what?

Look at Therifleman's comment, "I start my tuning with nock height adjustments and almost always end up with 23/32" (measured to the bottom of the top nock point)---with skinnier shafts." The comment is right on, but when you get down to 23/32nds a very skinny shaft is going to be different than just a skinny shaft. I don't really know if a 1/32nd is going to make a difference, but a 1/16th or an eighth sure will. I can't see well enough to see a 32nd, lol.

I suggest putting a T-square on the string. THe bottom of the square is exactly parallel. Put the bottom of the nock on that parallel line and put the nocking point 1/8 above the top of the nock.

That gives you the same nocking point for very skinny carbons and fat woods. Then tie in two nocking points and leave the tag ends long. Shoot and adjust according to Brian Water's diagram. You will most likely only have to move the NP a strand or two of serving. Once you have the point correct, pull the tag ends tight and either burn the tag end or superglue. I've heard of superglue eating bow strings - don't soak it. I've never had a problem with a circular dab.

When it comes to spine, I can't help, because I don't know what spine your shooting. Give me deflection. I will say that a Toelk is a pretty fast bow. If your last bow was slower, that could be the reason for high hits, but that's the reason we use impact of bare and fletched. Learn www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning and you'll answer questions on tuning not ask.

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