For a few years now I've been using axis 340 arrows and this year I've had a get rid of a few because they're breaking off right at the inserts. Some are new this year. Any suggestions what might be a tougher more rugged shaft?

Did you try footing with aluminum? That may help.

Footing will help for sure

IME a footed with aluminum Axis arrow is the toughest. I hit a piece of rebar that was holding up a 3D. Hit it dead on, 55# bow at 20 yards. The impact bent the 145grain field point, split the aluminum footing but did not damage the arrow. I also have 100grain brass inserts installed. Now I foot all my carbons, have for years. I know guys who claim it isn’t necessary to foot carbons but when I miss there’s a 98% chance I am going to hit rock. No arrow is bombproof period.

RD -

Excuse the bluntness, but:

1. Learn to shoot better.

2. Don't take high risk shots.

3. If you insist on "stumpin", just get the cheapest arrows you can find, and consider them expendable.

Viper out.

Thanks for the responses, I'll try footing a couple. Viper I guess I should have explained better but all of these breaks were while hunting. All 3 were shafts where the broadhead had exited the far side of a deer. My stumping arrow is a judo that I shoot while walking into my stand and it's just fine. I just don't like losing my razorheads after one animal.

Yes, foot the shaft with alum. I did it to my judo/roving arrow and a rock jumped up and hit my arrow dead on. It bent the judo point but did nothing to the arrow.

Viper is correct, but....

Shooting is so much more fun again since I’ve gone back to “high risk” shots...

That's a very odd thing. I've seen numerous deer taken with the same non footed carbon arrow.

Are the arrows breaking after passing through the animal, or are they getting beat up as the animal is running after the shot?

When running I assume, I find the shaft bit it's broken right at the broadhead. This has never happened before this year, maybe won't ever again, just looking for a stronger shaft. Thanks

That's odd.

I would almost be tempted to take a look behind the insert in some of those arrows and see if there was some type of trauma caused to the shaft when they were cut, and/or the inserts were installed.

I've seen all types of arrows break at different points aong the shaft as a deer is running away. But, all of them breaking in the same place would have me wondering.

Somehow I missed the part where this had anything to do with shots on deer....

FWIW, I have no clue how a deer could stop an arrow from any bow that is tuned correctly with a 340 spine and a Bear Razorhead up front.

Maybe the solution would be to find an arrow that flies so well that you get more clean pass-throughs?

i'm with GF on this one

It's a conundrum fore sure. I've been shooting axis shafts for about 10 years now and have never had a shaft fail on a critter.

Are they all breaking in exactly the same place? What length behind the point/insert?

I am getting pass throughs with 390 grain arrows and 35# at my draw recurve. I would look at shot placement and tuning. I can reuse 600 spine Easton Epic shafts after killing most deer.

Looking at them again I think it might be the inserts in the broadheads breaking causing the shaft to splinter and break. About 1/2 -3/4 inch breaks off the shaft. One did for sure as I can see the broadhead insert in there. As far as passthroughs every shot is different, the last one(160 lb field dressed buck) was a heart shot and the broadhead came through about 12 inches. The one before(100 lb field dressed doe) entered the middle ribs on right side with the broadhead coming about 6 inches right behind the left leg. The one before was a passthrough, ribs in ribs out. That arrow was good to use again.

What is your set-up here? I still don’t know why you aren’t blowing clean through....

RD -

Thanks for the additional information. Unfortunately, the three suggestions I gave you still stand. IF you need a 340, an aluminum 2315 will fit the bill, it won't/can't shatter and can be had for as little as $50 a dozen for raw shafts. Arrows shot at game are expendable, that's just reality and frankly, most hunters I know would trade three arrows for three deer any day of the week.

Viper out.

GF, Bear T/D 50@28 56@30 draw length 30 in 340 axis 30 3/4 length weedwacker line inside shaft total weight 520-525gr. Sometimes complete pass through sometimes not. I've only dropped back to this setup a year ago, when I was shooting 65# I usually shot through everything. I've been at this game for 55 years and killed over 200 big game animals so nothing surprizes me anymore but 3 in a row snapped by comfuse me.

I can imagine those arrows out of #65@30”, but sounds really stiff to me.... I'll have to mess with Stu’s calculator and see what comes out....

Not that I'm a Tuning Genius, but the calculator sez you're overspined by about #15 (I had to assume that you're using 125 gr heads); at 150 gr, it still says you're over by about half that.

So according to Stu, when you replace the 340s, try a 400 and you should be on the money. All I can think is that you've been taking your shots close enough that the arrow isn't completely settled into point-on flight....

And FWIW, if I break an arrow on a deer, it goes in the Trophy collection. But I haven't done this 200 times!

I've shot 400s but went back 340s as the 400s didn't penetrate as well in my block targets. All of these shots were 10-12 yards, I like them close. I've used some arrows as many as 7 times, my best broadhead I retired after 10 deer.

Hickory, Birch, Maple, Ash. Tougher.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here