I like what I have read here about the Easton Tribute XX75 aluminum shafts. What Tribute shaft size do you think would likely fly well from my setup:

60 inch recurve bow 14-strand Dynaflight 97 string 45# to 47# @ 28” draw (I draw 28 inches) 175 grain point weight

I am currently using Goldtip Traditional 600s cut to 29 inches with a 175 grain points. What spine in aluminum do you think would likely work from this setup?

Thanks for your recommendations.

Aluminum shafts are heavier than most carbon ones so you should use a lighter point weight for a similar weight finished arrow.

I suggest 1916 left full length to start, with 125 grain points, plus one weight a step lower and a couple higher to start tuning. - lbg

Yea 1916 or a 2016 with 125 grain

1916 with 125-145 grain cut to 29" would be the best choice.

2016 would work if you used the 175 grain points but they would be very heavy and have a loopy trajectory.

2016 is where I would start

1916’s cut the same 29” length with the same 175 grain point. A 2016 cut the same with same point will weigh just a little bit more and will also shoot for you.

1916

Call Lancaster Archery and order one or two of a couple diferent sizes..... No sense having a bunch of incorrect shafts laying around afterwards.

A 1916 is a .623 spine

My 47# Browning Wasp with a low stretch string likes a 29" 2016 with 145 tips and I draw 27". In other words, dynamics aren't etched in stone. We can get you close, and the 1916 isn't a bad suggestion. There are those things within or own personal dynamics that can make the best charts look goofy.

Thanks everyone for your recommendations. Now I have a starting point. I'll get my hands on a 1916 and a 2016 Tribute and do some testing. I picked up an arrow straightener on the big auction site and I look forward to rediscovering aluminum arrows for the first time in over 25 years.

“Picked up an arrow straightener “”, first time I have seen that in the posts on aluminums here in a dogs age.

I subscribe to the old adage: "It is better to have and not need than to need and not have." I have had carbons break and I am sure that I can manage to bend an aluminum arrow. LOL!

“I'll get my hands on a 1916 and a 2016 Tribute and do some testing.”

Duuuude....

They’re $3 a pop. May as well buy a couple ;)

I was going to say 1916 also, but with lighter points. I shoot a 28” 1916 out of a #55@28” RER longbow with 125 up front and they’re just a shade weak. 2016 might work, depending on point weight, but that’s what I shoot from my old #55@28” Howatt Hunter (Dacron).

I don’t know what point weight Riverwolf had in mind when he mentioned 2018s, but I need a lot more than #55 to make them tuned.

A lot of good suggestions their, good luck

I like an arrow about an 1 inch over my draw length

have a box of different sized and spined shafts cut to that lenght with a point weight I like to use (Carbons,aluminums and wood)

with a new bow takes matter of minutes to see what will work then write in a file ( what carbon, aluminum and wood work for that bow)

A 1916 is 623 spine and a 2016 is 510 spine.

If it were me I'd use a 1916 with a 150 grain point which should be very close to your current GT 600's

Most of my recurves draw 40-47#@ my draw length (29").

I will sand my riser wall to make it "more past center" for arrow tuning. By doing this, xx75 Tributes in1816, 1916, 2016, and Gold Tip 3355 traditional ( carbon, blems) all shoot well-being and close to the same vertical line. Lighter shafts shoot a bit higher. I have never cut a shaft. Never. I use them all full length.

Xx75 2016 Tribute shafts normally have 175 grain points. 1916 shafts usually have 150 grain points ( or 125 grains).

The 2016 tributes with 175 grainers have ( to me) the benefit of a lower gap for 3d shooting. Combining the heavier shaft and point, and a higher nock point ( about 1"+ above level/perpendicular) reduces the gap for 20+/- yard shots, with point on distance of about 32 yards. I gap off the top of the strike plate, and it ( top of strike plate) becomes my 20 yard level line for "aiming.". It has worked well for me in 3d competition.

Each bow is different ( and I don't have any high end bows). I use an arrow shaft with a 175 grain tips (heavy, to find the weak spine impact point ( I am right handed). I will sand my strike plate with 36 grain grit sandpaper on a block for 50 strokes or do, and test shoot, and repeat until impact shows "weak" ( right of vertical line/ arrow tip. I adjust back to "dead on" for left/right with proper thickness strike plate. Then adjust up/down with reference to the top of strike plate with nock point position.

So far, so good, but I am still learning and willing to learn from others on how to adjust arrow flight and point of impact.

Good ideas. I'll try a 1916 and a 2016.

Get several point weights for each; they are cheap.

Also note that you could start tuning with them left full length. Then you can trim a bit at a tie with a little tubing cutter from the hardware store. Chamfer the cut end with the tang of a file.gh

1916 is reasonably tough but your straightening tool will pay for itself after foul hits. I have a couple of 1916s left that have been in regular use for 30 years. It is a great shaft, light enough for a nice trajectory to 80 yards and tough enough to last. - lbg

The other nice thing about a 1916 is that it makes the math awfully easy… 10.0 GPI, I believe....

No argument intended, Fletch, but I think I would much sooner trim down a shaft than sand down a perfectly good bow!

But I also like having an arrow that is just long enough to shoot safely. No full- length shafts for me…

Gf, No worries for your comment.

I'll offer that shortening a shaft makes it stiffer. I'm looking for making a heavy shaft (2016) weaker-hense leaving it full length with heavy tips (175 grain). My goal is two-fold: lower gaps, and ability to shoot different shafts to the same left/right/vertical line of impact.

Lnce the riser is sanded past center to condition that achieves my L/R goal, Inuse a small round file to make a small radius to the shelf/riser area, finish sand it, and apply a finish coat of polyuretane. I also file/sand the grip so it fits me. If I didn't tell you what I did, you couldn't tell I did anything to the bow. Bit, when you shoot it, you would see the results for dead on arrow impact.

Again, I am not using high end bows, so I am not "destroying history". I started with a used Samick Journey (35# limbs tossing a xx75 full length 2016 shaft with 175 grain tips for great shooting to 25 yards gapping off the top of the strike plate,and point on at 32 yards...all with 3-under release), same thing for a 37# Wing Gull.

The riser wall is just a fixed "kisser button" that can be "adjusted", by sanding ( not by rotating a clicker setting).

Again, goal of the experiment was to lower gaps. It seems to work for me, and was fun developing the results.

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