Im curious is anyone uses these? Lancaster seems to have a great price on them. Also what inserts work with these and what poundage bows seem to like them?

sir misalots, you may have missed a lot of the discussions on these. ;))). No, really, they are great arrows but you need to get the inserts that allow for screw-in heads....3Rivers has the bushings...maybe Lancaster as well. They are great arrows....about .550 spine but narrow diameter..1820. The thick wall makes for a nice hunting arrow.

I built a bunch. They are fantastic shafts. Tough and strong and fly well.

As well as the inserts from 3RIvers #4 Carbon Express inserts fit if you're using screw in tips and broad heads.

I used Deep Six nocks rather than the standard N nock. The Deep Six is not as long and a little beefier than the "N" so it is much stronger.

I chose the orange shafts and installed blue nocks and blue and orange fletch. To my mind they look very nice.

With my 27" draw they're perfect out of a 52# DH Monterey with 125 grain tips.

thanks George

Size 1820 Shaft Weight 12.2 gpi

Spine Deflection @28?/1.94# ASTM 0.592"

Spine Deflection @26?/2.00# ATA/AMO 0.489" (53.2#)

Stock Length 30" Shaft O.D. 0.282"

1820 RPS Inserts: https://www.3riversarchery.com/aluminium-arrow-inserts-for-carbon-and-aluminum-arrows.html

Also: http://leatherwall.bowsite.com/tf/lw/thread2.cfm?forum=23&threadid=220941&messages=7&CATEGORY=2

????

Question marks should not be part of the deflection data.

Should read:

Spine Deflection @28"/1.94# ASTM 0.592"

Spine Deflection @26"/2.00# ATA/AMO 0.489" (53.2#)

I like the idea of them but found by the time I bought inserts and swapped out nocks I was paying as much for them as some better options for me. I found them a little to weak in spine for anything I shoot.

They are also excellent for stumping as they can take a licking.

This is a Root Brushmaster that's around 53# at my draw. The 1820 with a 125 grain Zwickey Judo flew just fine out of it. There's a 2114 laying just beyond the stump so the flight and point of impact for both shafts were similar.

Whoops...I goofed. The arrow in the picture above is a 1918, not an 1820.

Here's a picture of an 1820. That was a 52# Howatt Hunter so around 50# for me.

Shooting into frozen stumps at -10 demands a tough shaft.

I use them for my Ghillie Dhu. love mine as I hit things that I didn't intend to.. lots. :0

Pdiddly, what is the small quiver on your Hunter? It looks nice.

Just FYI, the size 1820 is not new, it was just reintroduced a few years ago in the Genesis moniker. They are listed in the 1968 Easton catalog as well.

Guys -

Mr. Stout is, of course, correct. 1820s are one the best deals in aluminum arrows out there, providing you can get the right inserts for them and shoot in the low 50# range.

Viper out.

lost run It is an Eagle's Flight 3 arrow strap on.

Hardly know it's there.

Good all a round shaft, making a comeback. Hard to beat for every day shooting if they are close enough to tune for your draw weight. They don't seem to be real picky for what they shoot out of either. Plus they can often be found at a good price. >>>>----> Ken

I've never owned any, but they're definitely intriguing.

Might have to buy some.

Black, orange, blue, green, purple, teal

was told carbon express #4 inserts would work

not so they too loose and will pull out 3 Rivers has the real inserts Easton chart gives a spine 0.592 for them

I've been using them for ages. About all I shoot in bows in the 50 - 55lb. range.

The wood arrow spine equivalent is about 53lbs.

Easton's tough arrows....1820.....1918....1920....2020.

Small diameter thick wall. I have the blue shafts and they are easier to find after the shot.

You are saying bows in the low 50's, with what point weight, and what draw lengths? I am drawing 30" usually cut the shaft 31", just trying to figure out what draw weight I could use to shoot them. 40#@28" or 35#@28" ??? DANNY

I’ve been using the 1820s off and on for a good while. The first Genesis shafts had a nock taper. I probably will regret posting this but I cut off the taper. With a little file work on the base of an Easton Super or S nock it can be twisted into the shaft. I know about the taper or nock bushing protecting the end of the shaft but all my bow strings are served for the Super nocks and all my arrows have Super nocks. Only have to keep one kind of nock on hand.

I have bought threaded inserts for 1820s in the past from Lancaster. Been a while. They are a durable shaft. We use them in the Center Shot program at my Church. I

Danny, you still have to go by spine anyway, so look at the static number .592 then work the dynamics of length, tip weight, etc. String type is important as well and whether shootin off the shelf or from a rest. It's between a 1916 and 2016 in that category. Anyway, they only come in 30" so you wouldn't be able to use them if you really need a 31" arrow.

simular results to Riverwolf with my 49#@26" NM longbow FF string way weak

2016 perfect

Those should work well on a 50# Montana at 28". Odd that it shows weak Ralph. You just never know till you try though.

Note:

I use a 175 Grian point so to add up to the aluminum broad head adaptor and 125 grain ACE standard broad head

I have put the nib points in the 1820 but have not tried them yet- hopefully so can use for 3-D and not give them away

2016 with the 175 grain head are straight down the LINE bare shaft

I can shoot them out of all my bows, longbow or recurve, 30-42# @ 28". My arrows are 28.5" and usually have 160 to 235 grain points.

Am shooting out of 35# @ 28", 28.5" BOP arrow with 3-4" parabolic feathers, FF string and 235 grain points(190 grain glue on field point mounted on long screw in broadhead adapter.For broadhead am using 250 grain VPA or 190 grain Grizzly.

Have a bunch of the old gamegetters plus some of the Genesis shafts with nock adapter, which I prefer cause I have a bazillion(actually many 1000's) nocks to use.

They spine at 55# on my Scheib, that is the wood scale at 26".

Biggest issue I've found on past center cut bows and these skinny shafts is false readings because the skinny shaft is past center. One needs to build out side plate to get them back where they are suppose to be.

I’d think a felt furniture pad would make quick work of that requirement....

I use these out of my 52# Bear KH for 3D. The stock glue-in points that come in these arrows stay put. I don't change them to an insert that uses a screw-in field tip.

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