From: gluetrap
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Date: 17-Nov-19 |
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been tinkering with footing some of my carbons. I found some alums. that I never new I had, so I started tinkering with them. well, found some alum. that footed it so good I don't know what kind of glue I should use. my question is , is worth footing , can it help?
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 17-Nov-19 |
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It makes the front of the arrow tougher,keeps it from splitting if you are hitting hard things/stumping. Epoxy a snug fitting 1 1/2" piece on flush with the end. >>>>-----> Ken
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From: Babysaph
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Date: 17-Nov-19 |
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Not necessary as they will just blow thru deer without them
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From: GF
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Date: 17-Nov-19 |
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So long as you don’t blow up your tuning job, it can’t hurt anything...
FYI: 2117 fits over 19XX; 2314 fits over 21XX...
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From: GLF
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Date: 17-Nov-19 |
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If you clean the shafts and insert good and use a good 5 min epoxy the insert wont split the shaft anyhow. Just make sure they're not shafts for broadheads since the inserts orientations permanent.
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From: GLF
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Date: 17-Nov-19 |
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GF ur footing might stop them from bending at the insert that epoxy doesnt help.
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From: Bootaka
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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I put mine on with hot melt. Only use about 1", just enough to cover the insert, whatever ends up as 10 grains. After I file and bevel them. Deffinetly suggest beveling the shaft end, makes it easier to pull.
I was blowing up carbons every other day before i started footing them.
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From: hawkeye in PA
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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I'm confused, are you asking about footing aluminum shafts, which I've never done. But would think wall thickness would be more of a factor than footing.
If carbon's yes, it will make a huge difference on hitting hard stumps. Through a couple extra nocks in your pocket.
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From: Wild Bill
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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I've used hot glue. Slide the 1" footing up the shaft, and with a hot air gun goop up the area of the footing, but not too close to the insert, because once you slide the footing to the insert, some of the glue will travel ahead of the aluminum. Wipe any bead that forms ahead of the aluminum. I usually chamfer the aluminum inside edges with a shell casing reamer, and if it covers the insert collar, so much to the better.
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From: gluetrap
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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thanks all for replies. anyone know what is the thinnest glue that will work?
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From: Therifleman
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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As others have said, footing w aluminum is good insurance. I used to use epoxy, but have discovered that just a bit of Big Jims hot melt holds them solidly, yet you can remove them. My footings are never longer than the depth of the insert (so no spine worries). I use an rcbs case chamfer tool to bevel both ends inside and out.
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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The title is confusing, like he wants to know how to foot aluminum arrows, but he says in his first post that he has carbon arrows. I that case yes, foot them and you will save a lot of arrows. Carbon arrows are touted to be tough, but you need to foot them with aluminum to realize it. Just a bit of irony I suppose. ;) I have some old Microflite fiberglass that I've also footed with aluminum and it has made them pretty much bomb proof. Liquid super glue will work on a tight fit.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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Footing aluminum shafts isn’t a bad idea. From my experience I bend them more than break them. To toughen up the tip ends on my 2114’s I got some Nibb points which are about 3 inches long. For added weight I added shot to the Nibbs. Got a nice weight forward arrow. So where did one bend? Behind the Nibb insert.
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From: GF
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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“GF ur footing might stop them from bending at the insert that epoxy doesnt help.”
Yeah..... That BE Carbon was one that I inherited from a shootin’ buddy after he split it on a miss; I didn’t have a carbon insert, so I cut the shaft 3/4” shorter than desired and I grafted on 1 1/2” of 2114 or 2117 with an insert I inherited from Wild Bill.
But the 2117 snapped off, leaving me with a Short. NUTS!!!
Then I stumbled across s couple of 2314s during a work party at the club, and damned if they aren’t a perfect fit. May have to buy a few dozen of those inserts so I can keep patching these free arrows together.
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From: RymanCat
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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Epoxy. I have some a guy did for me and they are great I like them a lot. Alum foot on carbons makes them bomb proof.
I seen it done on the nock end also but didn't like that look so much.
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From: Franklin
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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Sounds like the OP wasn`t thinking about footing carbons and happened to stumble on some old aluminums he had...now he wants to foot the carbons.
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From: Franklin
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Date: 18-Nov-19 |
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Should say..."was thinking"...not "wasn`t".
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From: gluetrap
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Date: 19-Nov-19 |
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found a glitch on my 1st post says footed so good should have said "fitted" not footed :)
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From: DaGunz
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Date: 19-Nov-19 |
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Epoxy is probably stronger but you can repair or replace footings in the field with hot melt.
Just carry some extra footings, a lighter, and a stick of glue.
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From: Dan Jones
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Date: 19-Nov-19 |
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IF you have to foot carbon shafts with pieces of aluminum, why not just use aluminum shafts?
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From: GF
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Date: 19-Nov-19 |
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Both have their virtues, Dan - major virtue of carbons (for ME) is that the price is right. I have friends who can damage & discard a full-length shaft that is perfectly sound at my preferred length.
Saves me a fortune! LOL
But TRUTH: if you foot a C with Al, you get a really solid arrow out of the deal.
Best of both worlds
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 20-Nov-19 |
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I agree, if it wasn’t for the rocks and hard ground here in AZ. I wouldn’t bother footing my carbons either.
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From: gluetrap
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Date: 31-Dec-19 |
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since I first started this thread I have footed both carbon and alum. with alum. it helped in both types. my 3d deer has a rebar leg that has destroyed several carbons ( some shots a little wild :) ) not so the footed ones. also hit my cender block garage backstop with both carbon and alumn. noks flew to who knows where but neither arrow broke! if I could find the right alumn. I would foot them all...ron
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From: vthunter
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Date: 31-Dec-19 |
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I've always used Loctite Super Glue to make the attachment. It always worked great for me.
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From: gluetrap
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Date: 31-Dec-19 |
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I used epoxy and gorilla glue . the brown stuff. so far both are standing up well. can paint the gorilla glue on with a tiny paint brush. do a bunch of them with one tiny brush. got a package of about 25 for a dollor or so. got a bunch of axis to do might just try the gorilla glue on them, much easier than epoxy. will try the super glue too, but might be afraid of glueing my fingers together! that stuff sets up fast and I am slow :)
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