I am falling in love with my NM Whisper and I would like to shoot wood shafts from her. I have about 5 dozen cedars 55-60# that I would like to build for this bow.

My bow is 48@28. I draw 30in. I believe it has a ff string on it.

Do you think 55-60's will work? If so what point weight do you think I should start with?

Id really like to use these shafts because I own so many of them but I will purchase a different spine if need be. Thanks.

Let's see... with your draw, you're shooting around 52# or so. Those 55/60's, if cut to 31"BOP to suit your draw, actually have a dynamic spine in the 40/45# range. Even with a 100grn point, they couldn't be more than upper 40's for dynamic spine. Most likely a little too soft. I'd say cut one of the shafts as short as possible for your draw, glue on the lightest point you're willing to shoot, and see how it flies. Sounds to me like you'll need to bump up a couple of spine groups to accommodate your longer draw.

Knowing what point weight you want to shoot, and center cut of the bow, we could get you real close to what you'll probably need.

I think you will need a 65/70# spine maybe even 70/75# because of the 31" arrow you will need.

Slowboejoe, I will shoot any point weight 125 grn and up but I have a bunch of 160 grn Ace and a bunch of 200 grn Grizzley.

Also, I know that the Whisper in nowhere near centercut but I don't know the exact measurement. Thanks for your help. Brad

Well I do believe the Whisper is a longbow, and a string follow? It isn't cut to center so you likely can use the 55/60 at 31" with a 125'ish point. It's not like you have a cut to center recurve to accommodate, you need to have an arrow that will bend around the bow. Give them a try and I'll bet they will be pretty close. You need to work the gozintos on things like this.

George, it is a forward handle longbow. Not a string follow. Ill try the 125 grn point to start. What do I have to loose.

Okay, I see it's the reverse handle model, but still the same shelf depth. Give them a try before you buy stiffer arrows.

Would this be a good time for someone to ask how you go about MEASURING the centercut? Asking for a friend, ;)!!

Its very easy to get close enough on the strike plate measurement. Just string the bow and hold at arms length, visually center the string on the bows limbs, then look at the string at the strike plate. On a right hand bow if the string bisects the strike plate, its center cut, if the strike plate is to the left of the string, its less than center, and to the right of the string its past center. Now just guess the distance from the string to the strike plate. Most less than center bows will be about 1/8" less than center. That is the standard, so a bow that is 48@28" will need a shaft 45/49 AMO when cut 28" BOP. You draw 30" your bow weight @30" will be about 54#, your 55/59 spine shafts will now spine 45/49@31". The 160gr/200gr. broadheads will weaken the shafts even more, so no the shafts you have will not work !

Bob

Just looked at the bow on the Northern Mist website, it is cut well before center, which makes a big difference. Let us know how that 55/60 shoots for you with a 125.

Good info Bob, thank you.

Many thanks, Bob!!

So are you saying that his shafts won’t work, or that they wont work with the points that he has to work with?

GF,If I understand correctly, they won't work even with a 125 grn point. But I'll give it a try because I have so many 55-60 shafts. Maybe a trade is in order.

I'm shooting a NM Sprague, 47@28". My draw length is 28". I'm shootin 50-55 Surewood douglas fir shafts. The Sprague is similar to your Whisper, reverse handle. Although the Sprague has some backset in the limbs. If your drawing 30" I think you might need A little stiffer arrows, but it doesn't hurt to try them.

GF: If he has one of the new non stretch string materials they probably will be slightly weak even with 125gr. points, but if using a B50 material they will work. With the 160/200gr points they will shoot weak, that is providing the shelf cut is 1/8" less than center. I usually figure for every change of a 1/16" it will effect spine 5#. If his bow is cut say 3/16" less than center then he should be good with the shafts that he has. One thing he can do is increase the thickness of the strike plate and continue to do so until the arrow shoot to the line, that is probably the simplest solution.

Bob

More great info as usual. Thanks gentlemen. Ill let you know later next week what I come up with.

They will work but you will need to play with length and point weight, I shoot my Whisper with 50-55 spine 28.5” for my 27.5 draw with 160gr Howard Hill broadheads. If I remember right Steve Turey told they are cut 3/16” from center.

It’s interesting that so many bowyers cut as deep as they do; cutting to -3/16” seems to call for enough stiffness that it gets you into a pretty darn heavy wood arrow. But I suppose it also lets you get tuned with carbons at a much lighter point weight, which could be interpreted as “fast”....

Hmmmmmm......

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