I have been having so many problems trying to tune arrows to a Osage orange English style longbow. It is one inch wide at the arrow pass. 70" long and 48# @ 28". I have not been able to tune arrows to this bow to save my life. I get best flight out of a 45-50 31" long arrow. But it's still not acceptable to me. 3 out of 5 shots the arrow hits the riser. And on the 2 it don't hit the riser, I still don't get acceptable flight from it. I have a 28" draw and would like to get my arrows shorter than the 31". I have test kits from 35-40 all the way to 60-65. And I can't get anything to fly right. I even cut a 35-40 down to 28" and I still get a lot of swimming and porpising. Any help or advice would be great. Maybe u all can think of something i haven't tried yet. I have never had so much trouble tuning a bow. And have several other elb selfbows that I have tuned fairly well. But this one is giving me fits

Sorry you're having troubles... I'll bet one of the guys at the shoot can figure it out if you don't get it dialed in before then. You say they are 45-50...on that style of bow 5# difference in spine might make a noticeable difference. Have you marked the arrows to see if the same arrows are hitting the shelf each time?

Arrows hitting the side of the bow probably have 2 causes.

First the brace height is too low.

Second, the arrows are over spined.

You could be intermittently under drawing.

Arrows porpoising are caused by a nock point that is off.

Arrows that have spine problems fish tail. Over spined go to the left for a righty and vice versa.

Arrows cork screwing are used by spine problems and nock problems.

Solve one problem at a time.

My site may help you.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/selfbowcare.html

Jawge

Sounds like the bows tiller is off a bit.

I meant to say

Arrows cork screwing are caused by spine problems and nock problems.

If 3 of 5 arrows hit the riser and 2 don't and all 5 are the same spine it's you.

Bowmania

Sounds like inconsistent grip/hand placement to me.

Brace height: I already have it to the highest that the now yes recommends String alignment: it lines up down the middle fairly well. If it deviates anywhere it's at the tips.and if it does deviate, it's not much Inconsistent draw: I thought this could be my problem. But I have really been making sure to hit the same anchor everytime.

Bowaholic: I was going to bring it to the shoot.

I know that you know how to shoot properly...I've shot with you. :) Glad to see that you found an osage ELB, did Steve make it? The only osage ELB I ever owned was made by JD Jones many years ago... we will figure it out at the shoot...or have fun trying. :)

Nah, it's a strunk I have had for almost a year. Just been shooting my yew bows mainly. Now I have it set it my head that I have to tune arrows to it. I would like to tune arrows down to my draw length,28". I realize I will have to get a weaker shaft for the shorter arrow. But still no good at 35-40

The brace height does seem low to me too. But that's what Mr strunk recommended as the top end of brace height. And that's 6".

It bare shaft tunes like any other bow. However it calls for an initial shaft static spine selection weaker than the base draw weight might indicate.

Sounds like your arrows are too stiff AND you should try running 2 nock sets, one above and one below the arrow nock.

The above is based on the given that you are still shooting good consistent form and gripping bow in the same place every time.

I have two of john strunk’s bows, both in the low fifties. I shoot cedar tapered shafts spined at 40-45 and cut at 28” with 125 gn field points or broadheadsand get perfect flight. My friends shooting Strunk’s pretty much follow the same formula. Perhaps it’s pilot error.

How, Shawn, does he measure brace height...string to back of bow or string to belly?

My self bows are set string to back of bow.

That's what my bowyer recommends. I know that for a fact. :)

Jawge

John, I have one a strunk yew elb I just love. And I shoot it probably better than any other bow I have. I have had the Osage one since last novemeber. Just never had luck tuning arrows to it. It could very well be something I'm doing. Just not sure what it could be.

And George I'm not sure how he measures brace height. I just always assumed back of bow to string. U know what they say about assuming. Lol I will give Mr Strunk a call next week

I set my brace height at 7-7.5" from string to back of bow. 6" to back of bow seems low to me and I asked my bowyer. He agrees. :)

Do check with yours, Shawn.

Jawge

Shawn, did you mean to say you measured from the belly side of the grip to the string?

Lol. My bad. I'm out of it I guess. Yes I meant I measure from the deepest part of the handle to the string. Sheesh. It's been a rough two weeks guys. Lol

I'd lean towards how you are holding the bow during the draw. I haven't figured out to make every bow shoot easily, some just need extra love and are finicky and others shoot great no matter how poor my sequence is at the time. Try holding it "Hill style" and then try again where you are only holding the top half of the grip in the heel of your hand. If you draw 28" a 29.5"-30" 50-55# arrow with 125 up front should work.

I agree with Pearly. Your grip is a good place to start. I'd suggest you balance the bow at the grip on your finger and find it's balance point. If the bow blances in the center of the grip, try the "hill style" grip that Pearly suggested. If your bow balances closer to the rest then start straightening out your wrist. If that doesn't change anything, move on to the arrows. I missed what type arrows you're using, if aluminum or carbon, I would expect all to react the same. If wood, you probably have a set of miss-matched arrows. Weight and spine could be the same, but that's where the similarites end. ID your arrows usings numbers, colors or what ever you like and re-test those arrows. Could be you have 5 arrows that are totally different to each other. Good luck.........Art

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