Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Should tiller be changed

Messages posted to thread:
badgerman 12-Aug-19
JusPassin 12-Aug-19
4t5 12-Aug-19
camodave 12-Aug-19
Rick Barbee 12-Aug-19
longbowguy 14-Aug-19
jk 15-Aug-19
Viper 15-Aug-19
pete w 16-Aug-19
From: badgerman Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 12-Aug-19




I have been shooting a 21" riser with morrison Max 5 limbs 3 under with 0 tiller. My ring finger is becoming a trigger finger so I started shooting 2 fingers under and it is working out pretty well. My question is should I change the tiller shooting 2 fingers under or doesn't it make any difference. I have a 28 1\2" draw and shooting bow at 38#. Joel

From: JusPassin
Date: 12-Aug-19




In a word no. It likely would be so minuscule my guess is you can't detect it.

From: 4t5
Date: 12-Aug-19




I would suggest no, since the ring finger don't carry much weight, but if no there was difference in your shot groups, that verifies it.

From: camodave
Date: 12-Aug-19




I shot 2 under just fine with a bunch of bows without changing a thung.

From: Rick Barbee
Date: 12-Aug-19




I'm not going to say it would be necessary, but I will say it can be beneficial.

The less finger/fingers I have on the string when I drop it, the closer to even my tiller can be, and the closer to square my nocking point can be.

Joel, when getting into this you are talking about the world of "Fine Tuning" within a reasonable tiller anyway, but here's an example for you:

A single bow with two different shooters. Both shooters have the same draw length. One shooter has fingers considerably "larger" than the other.

The shooter with the "larger" fingers may, and often does need a tiller more to the positive side, and/or a higher nocking point.

I'm cramped for time right now, so if that don't make sense to anyone, say so. I'll try to keep up with the topic, and elaborate if needed, or you can PM me.

Rick

From: longbowguy
Date: 14-Aug-19




I do not think it likely to make much difference. What difference there is might be corrected by a minor change in the height of the nocking point.

Paper tuning might help with that but what I do is shoot from about 20 yards away from the setting sun. I try to focus my sight at about 16 - 18 yards. What I like to see is the arrow not porpoising at all, just rising in my line of sight and turning to horizontal as it approaches the target.

Brass nock sets and a tool to match is helpful for this. Once I get it right I generally tie one on and glue it. Rick Barbee has a fine video on line for how to serve and elegant one on. But I generally just use serving thread or dental floss and a bunch of surgeon's or overhand knots. Wax the string first and you may be able to twist these up and down the string. - lbg

From: jk
Date: 15-Aug-19




Where is Johnny Carson when we need him?

From: Viper
Date: 15-Aug-19




b -

If you plan on changing the tiller, you should be seeing what the bare shafts tell you, not us.

Viper out.

From: pete w
Date: 16-Aug-19




The easy solution is change it and see what happens. If you don't like it put it back like it was.





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