So, my new limbs are 50 lbs at 31". I was planning on and am shooting 2117 game getters. I went to order some more and realized they are only 31-7/8" long. The xx75's are only 31-1/2" long. anyone shoot a broadhead with only 3/8 to 1/2" hanging over? This may be an issue in trying to decide what arrow I am going to shoot. I noticed there wasn't much hanging off the ones I am shooting from another bow I had, but I thought I had cut them.

Shoot Full Metal Jackets

Sorry, I meant they are only 31-3/8" long. How come I cant edit my posts hear like bowsite?

Not allowed to criticize management or I would tell you.

I have same issue, I been searching for old stock that cane in longer lengths

To the original question: several folks use the slight contact of the back (non-cutting edge) of the broadhead against the shelf or even the front of the rest as a form of clicker or trigger, essentially zero overhang.

Depends on your preferences in sight picture, safety (bow hand/finger) and draw consistency under pressure or excitement.

That will be the first thing I do tonight after work. Put the broadheads on and see if I cut my finger off. I tried the carbons and did not like them as much as the aluminum's. Now, I may have to default to using the carbon's because of a technicality. I would try woody's, but it may be to late in the year.

I suppose that you could rig up something to set the head out a ways. Maybe an external piece with either a glue on or screw in threads for the head and male threads for screwing into the insert. Look in the Lancaster catalog. They may have something that will work. Or you could build some aluminum footings that have inserts in them and set them up to be about any length that you desire. I have the same problem with stock lengths in some brands. Since you want to start with aluminum shafts, it may be a trick finding a shaft that will fit over the 2117. I haven't even looked. 2117 shafting is what I use to foot my carbons. It is a close enough fit that the glue fills the gap. It works great and adds weight.

use a brush rest mounted a little higher and back a little. high enouth to clear shelf. jmo

Shorten you draw , plenty do.

I did find a way to add length to the arrow with two inserts and screwing the added length on. I really don't want to shorten my draw. My anchor has been where it is for so many years, I don't even want to try something else. Hopefully I find I am comfortable with the broadhead being that close or just cut that finger off and get it out of the way. I don't really do much with that one.

What length do you need shaft to be? Maybe consider X-7's? Typically longer than XX75's. 2214 (a touch softer spine @.425) are 33", 2314 (a bit stiffer spine @.391) are 33 1/2". Either may require some retuning.

Steve

I would like to be at least 32". I have not had the time yet, but I am going to try a broadhead on the 31-1/2". This is another thing, granted 1/8" isnt anything, but 3-rivers shows the length as 31-3/8" and Easton show them as 31-1/2". The ones I have at home are 31-5/8"?????

Or you could try Full Metal Jackets, eh

I shoot a 32" arrow with 1/4 inch overhang. I like 1/2" but eastons 2219's are only 32" now instead of 33" new. Eastons doing everything in their power to get people to shoot carbon. More profit.

Easton sells most of their arrows to compound shooters, just a fact of life

Well, I got to shoot awhile this weekend. Yep, the broadheads are just bumping my riser when I settle into my anchor and probably bumping it when I expand to release. Which, I guess acts like a clicker. On a positive note, the way I am non- gripping my bow, my finger is out of the way of the broadhead and they seemed to tune well with my target points. I did also shoot my 400 spine carbons that are 32" with broadheads and did alright also. I just have some decisions to make. It's getting to that time of year, so I may just use my aluminum's that I have and either go to woods or carbons next year.

Just consider the outcome if you should get that fingertip in the way of an accelerating Broadhead. I MUCH prefer the back of the knuckle as a draw- check. As mentioned, it’s much like a clicker, which Target folk use to improve consistency of trajectory.

My index finger is wrapped around the handle touching my thumb. That is my only grip on the handle.

"My index finger is wrapped around the handle touching my thumb. That is my only grip on the handle."

And that is an excellent way to not grip the bow. I've been shooting that like most of my life and a it's very rare for me to torque the bow on the shot.

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