What draw weight is you Hill, what spine and length your carbons are? what grain are your arrows? Do you feel you have achieved good tuning/ paper tear bare shaft etc.

Thanks for any info, Tom H

Tom, I don’t shoot carbon out of my bows, that being said, yes you definitely need to have a properly spined and tuned arrow for you bow. I will say this, I see a lot of folks shooting an over spined arrows out of their ASL’s. Most ASLs are cut 1/8 to 3/16 outside of center.

Tom, I don’t shoot carbon out of my bows, that being said, yes you definitely need to have a properly spined and tuned arrow for you bow. I will say this, I see a lot of folks shooting an over spined arrows out of their ASL’s. Most ASLs are cut 1/8 to 3/16 outside of center.

I have a set of Alaskan tapered shafts that are 27" bop they were suppose to be for an Gainesville Super Kodiak that was 60 pounds. My draw length with that bow was 2&3/4" and my intent was to shoot broad heads flat, 160s with long adapters. Out of the right hand SK the arrows took a hard dive to the right, I went all of the down to a 100 grain target point, still did the hard dive to the right. However, with my fastest longbow, 58@26&1/4", a faster tapered custom blank from Hill, they fly perfect with 145 heads to 225 heads. They do NOT work for my other bows that a few pounds lighter. I have helped other longbow shooters tune carbons, they are really fussy. They go wacko with any soft release or shorter draw. I imagine that is because of the 3/16'' outside of center. They when we add a lot of tip weight they don't like a full draw hard release, but don't go as wacko with with a shorter release. The three that went to carbons have gone back to wood. When it comes to Hill bows, wood will give you more tolerance than carbon, but the wood arrows need to be the good stuff from Wapiti or Sherwood, not someone's discard stash that is sold cheap on Ebay. .

I can shoot 500 carbons out of my 49#@26" ASL's

shoot 175 grain points and std inserts 27 1/2 inch BOP

not a big fan of carbons though

do shoot alot of 2016 aluminums (same point and 27" BOP)

Prefer wood 60-65# spine with 125 grain points and 27"BOP

I tend to do better with a stiffer spine than recommended for some reason (something in my personal style)

I shoot with a Dynamic release- and once was told that with a light longbow at shooting the bow moves away due to arrow pressure and kinda makes more center shot??? who knows

but stiffer works better for me

PS: shoot 14 strand Rhino strings

I have only one ASL, so this is only my experience and not an answer to take to the bank.

Yes, I shoot carbons. The bow is a Northern Mist Classic, 45# @ 28", which is my draw. The arrows are GT Warriors, 600 spine, cut to 30-1/2" back of point. I shoot 50gr brass inserts, with 150gr heads, and they are 4-fletched with 4" parabolic feathers.

I bare shaft tune all my arrows with every bow. I don't like having the broadhead right at my knuckle, so I like a 30" or more arrow length. I don't use the arrow as any reference in aiming. If I get down to 30" and it is still stiff, I either change spine or, depending upon how stiff, add weight up front with a heavier insert or weights. I don't measure FOC, so I have no idea what they may be.

My Northern Mist Whisper is about 51lbs at my draw of 27" i found with some help from Lost Nation archery that Easton Axis traditional's at 29" with a 75 grain insert and 150 grain point with 5" feathers works very well, I don't care about FOC just overall weight and only use carbons for 3d I use 50-55 spine cedar arrows for hunting with 160 grain Howard Hill heads.

Longbows and hunting recurves easily match wooden and aluminum arrows with equal ease. Carbons match compounds and modern target recurves but are trickier to tune because there are not as many readily changeable points available and you need a special saw to trim them and some other characteristics.

You can do otherwise but it might not be sensible to do it. - lbg

Carbons are no more or less tricky to tune then any other arrow shaft. They are measured in deflection, which we convert to "spine" just like anything else.

When it comes to correct spine, the truth is that if soemone gives you a suggestion, and you nail the spine correctly based on that suggestion, it was kind of an accident.

Put yourself together a test kit of shafts at the length you want to shoot, and the point weight you wnat to shoot if you desire. then you'll know. There are so many spine out there in carbon these days that there is no reason for tuning to be a problem.

Days gone by.

68" Tembo [email protected] GT Trad 500 spine 29.5" Standard insert 200gr head 3 5" feathers 14 strand B55 string

I used CE 150’s with a 175 grain point cut to 29” for my 64#@28” Pete George ASL. I just figured with that type shelf to start under spine anyway.

For ASLs Ive always done well with 600s for draw weight in the 40s, 500s for draw weight in the 50s, and so on tuning with points, inserts, brace.

Yes, you can tune carbon arrows to shoot OK out of a Hill style longbow. You can also train a pig to sing opera. But it is not so easy and it looks and sounds funny. And it annoys the pig. - lbg

A farmer friend of mine bought some carbons years back. By the time we had those full length things flying the pigs were starting to harmonize quite loudly. After he hunted with them a few times in his back quiver he went back to shorter cedar arrows. It was not the flight that tested his patience it was the 31" shafts in his 20" back quiver that drove him nuts. Like John Schulz talked about controlling the arrow by the nock, that was not going to happen with them, he couldn't begin to reach one. The nock was a difficult shape to handle, the weight made them awkward to handle, and they snagged on every low reaching branch that he passed near.

LOL

Yes, you can tune carbon arrows to shoot OK out of a Hill style longbow. You can also train a pig to sing opera. But it is not so easy and it looks and sounds funny. And it annoys the pig. - lbg

Gt 500 spine w 175 heads work fine for me.

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