I need some help. I've been trying to tune a 1960 Bear Polar. 41#@28. My draw is 29 3/4. All spring I've been shooting this bow but i can't seem to get the correct knock height and brace height.

Originally i was shooting off the shelf with carbon express 90's. 200 grn point. Full length arrows. I was pretty close but my bare shaft is always below the fletched shaft. No matter where i move my knock to it is always low. At 20 yds its just a little low. Past 20 its two feet low.

So today a put a feather rest on thinking that would help. But no luck. My arrow flight is worse no matter what i do. Bare shaft always low.

I have CE 70, 90, and 150's and many point weights to experiment with. What do you suggest for a starting point with this bow? And can anyone explain why the bare shafts are always low. I assume the back of the arrow is hitting the rest making it impact low but i can never get it to impact high.

Also, when i put the rest on today i had to drop point weight to get my right and left impacting the same. Does this make sense?

Just to see what happens, put it back where it acted best and shoot three under.

Ttt

Did you try what Jeff suggested? He knows a thing or 2 about bow tiller and the affects that it has on arrow flight.

Jeff, I've never shot 3 under with any bow but I'm willing to give it a try. Just curious, why do you think this may help?

The theory, well actually reality is that the closer you hold to the pivot point, the closer you are to the center of the bow's balance. Three under accommodates that. I am tending to agree with tradmt that you likely have too much weight on those 90's (.600). Experiment a bit before making any drastic changes in how you shoot. Also, I would be more concerned about where my fletched arrows hits and how they were flying.

I hit submit too quick. The reason tradmt's post makes sense is that overloaded from is dipping quickly with no control on the back end. It can hardly help but be low...and lower the further you shoot.

"overloaded front" not from.

Got it. Thanks George.

Sounds like you need two nock points on your string to me. Give it a try and see if that lines your rig out. Good Luck, Ben

Ill try that too. Thanks Ben

Shoot Wood Arrows..... That's probably what its used to Slinging! Just Sayin'...

I am planning on shooting wood and I have the shafts to do it with I just Havnt had the time to make them.

i was getting a similar thing and added a second nock point as caught suggests and valla no more tail high. i was bouncing off the shelf on some of the shots not all but most with one nock point

Overloaded front sounds like a tuning issue with the FOC. Maybe adjust the point weight a little bit?

Ok fellas, I tried the 2 knocks and I found no difference. My bare shaft is always low no matter where I put my knocks. Also, I tried the CE. 150's and I got them bare shafting pretty good but still low but not bad. To get my right and left correct I had to go with 275 grns up front which makes a very heavy arrow. 615 grns, about 13 grains per pound.

I tried Jeff's suggestion of shooting 3 under but Im not ready to change my shooting style this time of year. Maybe give it a go this winter.

Do you think a 615 grn arrow from a 46 lb bow is too heavy? Also, any more suggestions on why I can't get the bare shaft to shoot above or with my fletched shaft?

Oops. That's supposed to say nocks not knocks

B.Arthur, Jeff suggested that you try 3 under to get a handle on the tiller of the bow. Not to get you to change your shooting style. So, when you shot 3 under how did the bareshafts land? Were they still low?

Only you can answer whether or not that is too heavy. We don't know what your use environment looks like. How far are you going to be shooting? How far can you shoot that arrow effectively and hit what you wnat to hit? How effivceint is the bow?

I'm guessing if you get some correctly spined arrows, that will allow you to use a reasonable point weight you'd be much better off. You've got 44% of the total arrow weight on the very end of the arrow. How could it not shoot with the point down?

How do you have the sight window set up on the bow? How far before center is the material that you have on there? Not how was it made, how are you shooting it?

Have you tried shooting the bow with the bottom of the nock at 90degrees to the arrow rest? If not, do. Have you put powder or soemthing similar on the shaft to see id, and where it's making contact with the shelf and sight window?

It's dead give away that if you can't get the bare and fletched to group together it's the wrong arrow.

fdp, thanks for your input. My shots will be under 20 yds but I have been shooting very good out to 25. The reason I went up in spine was at George Stout's recommendation. But to get that arrow to group with my bare shaft I had to add the point weight to get right and left corrected.

I have not tried putting the nock that low but I did work it down to 1/8 in above center. It got worse as I went down but i will try tomorrow.

When I drop down in spine the arrows come shorter so I have to use full length. I can't cut any more off. I had 200 grns on the front of those arrows to get the spine correct, but same as the CE 150 they always group low.

Brad, have you looked at www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic=tuning ?

Bares below fletched is a nocking point too high.

Nocking point too low hits the shelf and it kicks up.

THe first thing I do when tuning is set the nocking point. Some get spine first, but in most cases spine is harder to adjust. So I do the NP first.

If you do what Frank suggest you should get a too low reading, because your intentionally setting it too low.

So put your t-square on the bow and find the spot exactly perpedicular to the bottom of the rest and put a nocking point there or figure in the diameter of the nock and put it there. Do you follow that? They're both too low the first lower than the second. A lot of times during tuning you try to get the opposite reaction. So if you get a bare low with the diameter of the nock, try the other.

Now, when you shoot a bare and fletched the bare should be above. Now you have a known action and should get known result, if you get bare shaft low you can cross off nocking point being the problem.

This always helps me when thinking of nocking point. If I nock an arrow one foot above where it should be and look at that from the side the arrow tip will be pointed down. When you shoot it it can only go down - too low.

I can see trying 3 under to solve a problem, but the bow can't dictate how you hook the string. It's like the passengers in the back seat driving the car.

If you cross of the NP as the problem, look at tiller. Then see if you're torquing the string, or vice versa. Also as suggested use two NP's.

Bowmania

Bowmania, thanks for the advice. Yes at your suggestion I've been using the fender archery guide. I understand what you are saying. I will start over again in the morning and try what you suggest. My nocking point seems to be best at 5/8 above. If I move the nock up or down from that spot the bare shaft gets futher away from the fletched shafts. Always lower. But I'll start at 90 degrees and see if I can get the bare shafts to impact high.

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