For those much more knowledgeable than me... I have a 60" Black Widow KB that is 40 pounds at 28", which I draw to 29". I am going to build new arrows for it and have a dozen full-length Easton Axis Traditional 500 arrows that I plan on using since I already own them. I have field points and broad heads ranging from 100 up through 200 grains. I plan on leaving the arrows their full length of 32".

The question I have is whether I should use the standard HIT inserts, or should I go with the 50 or 75 grain brass inserts?

Only tuning will tell you what the total weight you will need up front. This is especially true since you want to use full length shafts---one factor of the equation is fixed. I'd recommend installing the aluminum HIT inserts with a low temp hot melt like Big Jim's and shoot the arrows for a bit, get your form down solid and then look at tuning to find out what works best (I bareshaft).

With the standard HIT you have a pretty good range of point weights with your field points. If you would later find that you need more weight up front you could easily swap out the standard aluminum and install a brass. My hunch is that you would be getting a very heavy arrow if you go much beyond 200 grains up front for your poundage---but its all in what you want.

First of all, on any carbon shaft, always cut off some on the nock end and square that end up. The nock end is the most important and needs to be square with the nock.

HIT inserts are junk. Look at inserts like the static adjustable half out from Ethics Archery that has a pin that goes up inside the shafts, adding strength to the end of the shaft. You cut the pin down to get the arrow weight you need when bare shaft tuning. Lots of guys are now using an outserts system on the .204 diameter shafts to add tip weight and protection. I've got several dozen of the Ethics Archery systems, but like the stainless steel half out better on .204 diameter shafts like the Axis shafts. I add my weight to the insert, allowing me to use 100 grain or 125 grain tips. Don't like big heavy broad heads and 16 grain HIT inserts. Bad idea...

One of each to test or what weight do you want to end up with.

Do you have a favorite broadhead you like to shoot? If it were me I'd start by plugging favorite broadhead weight into an 3rivers arrow selector and work from there. I've always had good luck with hit insert nothing wrong with them.

" If you would later find that you need more weight up front you could easily swap out the standard aluminum and install a brass."

The problem is you can't 'easily' swap them out. At least not as easily as screwing in a heavier point. I used heavy inserts JUST ONCE.

I agree on the HIT insert.

Bowmania

I use 100 grain brass inserts in my 500 spine Axis. You might be better off with the 50 or 75 grain ones. As for durable I foot them with 1” of old 1917 aluminum shaft. Haven’t tried the outsert yet but the ones described above with the internal foot sound interesting. Actually years ago an internal foot was recommended to me by the guy who used to make the A&H bows.

mab, which of your current arrows work best with your 40# BW?

I respectfully disagree on the HIT inserts. Using a target like the Cabela's broadhead target allows you to shoot it and pull the arrows out cause it's not as compressed as some layered broadhead targets. That's the only target I'll bare shaft tune with, and I don't need to glue the inserts in. With the Ethics system, the insets are very tight fitting and requires a lil sanding to get the perfect tight fit. Plus the weakness of the Axis shafts is why many end up gluing on a collar, to strengthen the tip of the shafts. And if using a 100 grain brass insert, how do you pull em out to cut em down if you need weight off the insert? It's easier to cut 20 grains off the insert then to find 110 grain heads.

I used the brass HIT on many dozens of arrows for years. I was shooting 70# with a 30" draw. I like a light arrow but even with these my arrows were about 8 gr/lb.

I've moved to lighter bows with age so in keeping overall light arrows I use the aluminum now. My shafts are lighter so I have no trouble keeping enough weight forward.

Remember, once you epoxy them in it's permanent. I love the HIT system, the Axis is the toughest arrow I've ever used (not saying there are not other good shafts). My home target is in front of a solid concrete wall that I occasionally hit. Mostly, the arrows bouce off and I may have to change a bent point.

ive recently been using low temp hot melt with the axis and hit inserts. no problems removing the inserts but you need to be careful to not over heat them. ive found the axis and hit system to be one of the best ive tried so far im impressed with them. if i were you id lotemp hot melt the al inserts in and play with point weight. to start

I forgot about the one problem with HIT. So I do foot them, I foot all carbon, it's just cheap insurance. Anyhow, if you foot them and do a lot of stumping you can bend the shank of the point without breaking the shaft. The shaft binds against the shank and they are almost impossible to remove. It sucks. If you punch paper or just bowhunt you probably won't have any trouble.

I use the brass 50/75's up front in my Easton Trads as they allow for a wide range of point weights to be used for matching my arrows among many of my bows.

I don't know how the Easton Traditional 500s fly because I haven't set them up yet. Using the 3 Rivers spine calculator, my Traditional 400s are full length with 75 grain inserts, and should be almost perfect with 125 grain points. It says the Traditional 500s should be cut to 30" and use the 50 grain insert with 125 grain points. It matched the dynamic spine numbers within 3 for the 400s and under 2 for the 500s.

I also checked what Black Widow recommends for wood shafts on their bows. According to their formulas, I should go with a 31" 75-80 pound spine using 125 grain points.

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