Assume that you have a batch of wood arrows. They are all spined within 5 pounds (e.g., 50-55) and they all weigh (finished) within 10 grains of each other. To pick the arrows that are most likely to be consistent with each other, would you go with the same spine (e.g., all of the 53# arrows) or the ones with nearly identical weights, even though their spines might be different?

Spine means more than weight in tuning. I sort by spine and weight among that spine.

Arrows can be within 15# of spine and 20 or so grains of weight, and probably only 1 in a 100 will be able to tell the difference.

Bob

I am kind of anal about it. If the arrows are 65-70# I divide them into 2 groups. Those that are closer to 65 and those that are closer to 70. My knock about arrows are all within 10 grains and competitive arrows 5 grains. But that's just me.

Agree with Bob. If your arrows are that close in spine and weight already, there's nothing you can do to group them any closer that will yield a shooting difference you will notice. But if you'll feel better, group them for similar spine.

What Bob said.

[[[ "Arrows can be within 15# of spine and 20 or so grains of weight, and probably only 1 in a 100 will be able to tell the difference.

Bob" ]]]

I don't get it Bob. Please elaborate.

I won't shoot arrows (from the same bow) with that wide of a gap in spine & weight, "because" I can darn sure tell the difference in "that much difference" (especially when shooting broadheads), in both my tuning, and my shooting.

And, I'm not even that good.

I suspect there's lots of shooters who can. Surely more than just 1 in 100?

Rick

Oh, and P.S.

I sort by spine first, then weight. Just like George. George knows a thing, or three.

Rick

with wood arrows my experience (for what its worth) is in line with Bobs comment

aluminum and carbon I can note a difference mainly in spine-much more so than weight

I was not trying to be argumentative.

Just pointing out, that Bob's comment does not apply to me. Not even with wood arrows.

If there is that wide of a gap in match up I can tell it big time, and surely I'm not the only one. Pretty sure I'm not.

Rick

I don't buy that at all Bob, unless the users can'tshoot for sh.. squat and don't know the difference. That sounds like compensation or consolation for wood arrows. I can make a change of 10-15 grains on the nock end of a carbon arrow and see clear adjustment in spine. Sorry if that may sound "snotty" but this seems to be my day for it.

I spine in 4 pound groups and weigh in 10 grain groups.

Guys -

For consistency: Spine > weight > straightness.

But please, use a little common sense here. Arrows that are perfectly matched in spine and weight, but bent in a semicircle might not do too well - so yeah, in that case straightness might be the determining factor.

Viper out.

[[[ "Guys -

For consistency: Spine > weight > straightness.

But please, use a little common sense here. Arrows that are perfectly matched in spine and weight, but bent in a semicircle might not do too well - so yeah, in that case straightness might be the determining factor.

Viper out." ]]]

I won't shoot em if they are crooked either, but you're definitely right.

Rick

I think a lot depends on the individual and maybe how he holds the bow. I shoot a number of bows and can easily shoot a 15 # spine range without telling any difference. I have a friend that I shoot with all the time and spine is very critical for him. He even bare shafts each arrow at times. We both shoot 5" fletching and df or cedar shafts and both have about the same accuracy. His bows are slightly more center shot is the only difference.

Spine first. But within the parameters stated by the op, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference. I do think Bob's parameters are a bit stretchy. I think I could tell the difference in Bob's parameters and I'm not as good as Barbee. ;-)

Just for myself, I’d go spine first.

My reasoning is pretty simple, even if I’m giving myself too much credit: If they don’t spine right, they’ll end up somewhere other than where I point them, and my ability to make sure that they are pointed straight down the middle is greater than my ability to judge distance... as evidenced by some of my long-distance groups which are no wider than my brace height, but are taller than I am. And often taller than my longest bow and me put together!

I suppose if I were a really talented Gapper, I’d think the opposite; most targets - certainly true of bullseyes - are widest when you get the elevation dead nuts.

But on hunting-range shots, the mass of my arrow and it’s effect on my trajectory is the least of my concerns...

Spine first. Then weight. I group them as well.

I agree with Rick & David. If 15# of spine difference didn't matter then why are wooden arrows commonly sold in 5# increments? George has it right.15 pounds of spine is a significant difference IMO.

I also agree with Rick and Dave.Especially so with bows cut short of center.I can see a difference with just a 5 lb increase or decrease in spine with my non center shot longbows.Granted a 20gr difference in arrow weight might not be that big of a deal but even that will start to show around 30-35 yards if it's from point weight.

All in what your after. Think Bob is a little loose but he's right. Most of us don't shoot that well that that much spread would make much difference in close yardage. If your competing with woods different story. You want the arrows as close as possible in spine, weight and dead straight

A fifteen pound spine variance would obviate the static spine rules of thumb so often mentioned here on LW (add/subtract 5# spine for increase/decrease in 28" arrow length, degree of centre-cut off the riser/shelf, point weight =/- 125 grain, etc., etc.)

But then three fletches of 5-1/2" long stout turkey at 5/8" height can make cooked spaghetti fly straight at 17.3 yards.

Dunno.

Maybe the 'experts' meant +/- 7.5 pounds spine instead of 15?

Still seems a sloppy wide parameter, given the number of spine selections on the charts.

When you put broadheads on your arrows, that (at least for me) is when you can "see a difference" on arrows that are not matched in spine. (get a wooden arrow test kit and some Zwickey Delta broadheads and start experimenting). There is a reason why most wooden arrows/shafts are grouped within 5 lbs. of spine.

I group them according to how they fly. :) Jawge.

Sprinke if your wood arrows which in my case typically finish out 550-600g depending on which set are spined 50-55# (3g+/-)and weigh w/in 10g finished (5#+/-) as you said above I simply wouldn't spend time to separate.

Thanks everyone, my gut feeling had been spine and then weight and I'm glad to see that the general consensus agrees.

(And yes, I'm taking pains to make them straight, took a tip from Paul Jalon and have been using the Grayling arrow straightener ... get them all within .005 straightness and they spin true.)

I don't get it either.,my carbons are not like that.,

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