2016

"Got a pile of carbons but I can't get the length and weight where I want without a crazy heavy point, and I just don't like working with them. So aluminum seems like a solid choice." - I agree and would go with 2016s. - John

JMO, the question is not “2018 vs 2016”, but 2016 vs 1916. Depending on how comfortable you are with bare-shafting, you might even drop down to an 1816 for the Mist...

I have a NM Shelton 50@28 drawing 28 that shoots a 2016 cut 29 in. BOP with 175 point. I was shooting a bare shaft at 30 yards with great flight and grouping.

2016- for your situation the 2018s would be way to steeeef.

I agree also with the 2016's, cut somewhere between 28-29inch. The two different bows may require different point weights to get good flight (maybe not), since one is cut to center and the other left of center, you will just have to play and see. DANNY

9/32 nock will fit just a tad short, 5/16 will be the same size as the arrow diameter. It's a preference thing. I use 5/16 on mine. Your 500 GT shouldn't show week on your other bow, sounds like a false reading to me, but yeah...2016 should work fine.

Get a couple of each from Lancaster before investing in a pile of 'em.

I took so long to post my last response that you probably haven’t seen it… In case you were wondering, you can also get Tributes - same price as the Jazz, but black instead of purple.

2016. And you'll find that Tributes and Jazz aren't that cheap. Once you buy nocks and inserts, there is only about $3.00 difference from Gamegetters. And GG's are a tuffer grade of aluminum. My bows are 48 to 53 with a 29 inch draw and 2018's and 2213's (almost the same spine) work great. I have one lighter bow in your range and 2016's tune perfectly to it.

1916s, don't sell them short, they will work great.

To me heavier is better, just my two cents Having said that I would use the 2018’s and put however much weight upfront on the insert to make them work. You’re going to get a zillion different answers just go with what flies best and what you like.

Grizz,

The last I checked, the Jazz and Tributes are XX75 aluminum same as the Black GameGetters. Just minor differences in straightness. Yes you have to buy the point inserts for them and if you don't already have 5/16 arrow nocks you'll have to buy those also. 2016's is the largest shaft made in the Jazz and Tributes line. DANNY

Linecutter, look up the specs in 3rivers or better yet, call them tech line. GG, Camo Hunter & Legacy are 7075 T9 . Tribute and Jazz are 7075. T9 is a stronger tensile strength arrow.

Well learn something new. I always thought XX75 was XX75, then it went to XX78. So Easton uses 2 different grades of XX75. I never noticed the difference. DANNY

Yeah, I had to call the tech line cause it was bugging the heck out of me what the T9 meant. Even at that the Tribute and Jazz are still tuffer than the old early GG greens.

Even as soft as those GG greens were, they were better than the old Easton Eagles. The Easton Eagles you could almost look at sideways and they would bend. I think the Easton Eagles I had started to bend after the first shot and that was a 2219 shaft. If memory serves me right, the green GG were also a seamed tube and weren't anodized. They weren't extruded like the next generation of GG shafts, or the orange and camo XX75 shafts. DANNY

Yep, I think the Eagles would bend on impact with a straw bail. That and dirt was about all we had to shoot at back then and you sure didn't want to shoot one of those into a dirt bank. I went to Microflites, much tuffer.

!916

I can vouch for the XX75 tribute for strength,got two stuck deep in wood and had to wiggle the crap out of 'em with no damage.

Last shafts I bought are the camo version. Under $55 from Ebay. No shipping charge. I use 2114 size for my 50-55# bows. I used 2018 size for my ASL. It was 64# and that’s what the bowyer, Pete George recommended. I just used the standard insert and 160 grain broadheads.

I shoot the same length and weight as you do. I shot 2020s, then 2018s, then 2016s...but a friend suggested I try 1916s/145. I didn't want to because I like having everything 5/16", but he gave me a few to shoot. They shoot better than my 2016s. Try some if you can.

My life got a lot better when I kept 1 each of 29” 1816, 1916, 2016, 2117, 2018, as well as 340, 400, and 500 carbon. These are set aside, for tuning purposes, along with my field tip test kit which has everything from 70gr to 300gr.

Lancaster sells any shaft individually, and makes it very easy for anybody to acquire a good test kit. The field point test kit came from 3R

My preference for that draw weight and length would the 1820. Smaller diameter and very good physical weight.

2016 with 145 on front. Now bare in mind some bows shoot heavier woods better than the actual AOM so you really can't compare 2016 with 2018.

Glenn, huh?

FWIW, you can still buy the same (LOW) grade arrows that used to be called the Eagles - they’re now called Fall Stalkers, and you can waste your money on those at any Big Box....

Tributes are better and work well for testing and tuning, but JMO are not good enough to shoot regularly unless you always hit a soft target and rarely if ever slap shafts. And mind who you allow to help pull your arrows.

FWIW, I shoot 1916s at 28” even from my RER LB marked #55@28” and drawn about 27”. With 125 up front, they’re a hair underspined. And 2016s shoot OK from that bow if I fletch big enough. So you may be on the bubble. But a 1916 with a 9/32” nock is quite pleasant to shoot.

Thumper, check your PM's

Yeah... I bought some 2117s to bare-shaft with on my new-to-me EagleWing, and it’s cheaper to shoot a .375 H&H, because at least you can re-load the cases...

LOL

I use Fall Stalkers in my aluminum test kit and don't have any problems with them. However, they sure wouldn't be my choice for stumping.

But you’re a better shot than I am! LOL

Actually, I’d say they make great sense for hunting arrows... my arrow survival rate for shafts that didn’t pass clean through is about nil...

That's a point too GF.

Thumper,

The Fall Stalkers are a lower grade aluminum, they are not XX75 quality and they were cheaper to buy. I am speaking from personal experience. I am not sure what aluminum was used in the old Green GameGetters, but I believe it is of similar quality as the Fall Stalkers. Better than Easton Eagles but not the quality of XX75 aluminum. They bend a lot easier and this from my experience shooting 2117's and 2219's. A buddy of mine had some of the Fall Stalkers shafts and was trying to sell things he had because he could no longer shoot due to a stroke. So I thought I would help him out and buy some of the shafts he had. Those Fall Stalkers started to lose their straightness after about 8-10 shots, into and being pulled from 3D targets. They would work for hunting, as long as that one shot, was the only shot you used them for. DANNY

Don't buy any 5/16 nocks. They are coming with the shafts.

From the OP - "I draw it to about 27". Wanting to stay with a 28"ish long arrow and 125-160gr points. "

Yeah, that right there would steer me towards the 1916. If you decide to try 2016's start full length and trim in small amounts. Might end up longer than you're looking for.

What Danac said. Depending on the bow,arrow length, and archers release, 2016 might work. Definitely a 1916 should work.

Agreed ... I’d you are keeping that arrow 28” long , 1916’s every day of the week and twice on Sundays.

The aluminumarrows that actually spine in the 50-54lb. range are:

1820.1916,2013,2014

2016 is 55-59 2018 is 65-69

Thumper, make it easy I have the same bow # and draw and 2016 cut @ 28 1/4" fly perfect with a 125 gr. snuffer 4x4 fletch. has work well for a few yrs. Agree carbon are a pain for a suppose simple hunting weapon. Keep it simple and uncomplicated.

You need 1916's cut to 28" for both bows if you use 125 grain heads.

If you want 2016's you'll need 145-160 grains for the Northern Mist.

My advice is based on setting up about 50 bows at the draw weights you describe.

ahhh go ahead & let him shoot stiff, most other people do.

people think 1916s are kiddie arrows.

1916's are a really versatile shaft...use them on bows from 47#-53#. Tough too!

Thumper...1820's are stiffer than 1916's. 1820's are .489 (53lbs.), 1916's are .514 (50lbs.), 2016's are .438 (59lbs.).

Frank, wadr, where are you getting those numbers? They correspond with nothing I've seen published.

2014 x7s if you can find them used.............

DanaC and Thumper. Yes, I convert all static spine measurements to AMO because that other system is just wel...stupid.

So you're saying the largest manufacturing firm of arrows in the country doesn't understand how their shafts are made or how to spine them? Allrightythen.

Just from shooting them 1820s seem stiffer than 1916s to me.

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