Tell me about Chronographs. I recently bought a cheap Caldwell chronograph and was shooting various bow and arrow combos through it tonight. I was getting expected results and then I grabbed a broadhead equipped arrow. I shot it and got approximately 30 FPS faster than all previous shots. I chuckled and shot it again - with the same results. Same weight and GPP as the previous arrows, but this one consistently registered 30+FPS faster. I then shot it through a heavier bow thinking it would register an even faster FPS, and it registered a speed back where it should have been, and comparable with the previous slower shots.

So what was the deal? I know the broadhead equipped arrow wasn't special or magic and not 30 fps faster than all the other arrows.

Chronographs are great tools but little things can give wonky readings. Low battery, poor lighting, poor arrow flight can all give bad readings.

Lots of variables when you're using a chronograph. Some of them are us, some of them are the machine.

It was a non-vented broadhead. The real difference I could see was that the fletching on the broadhead arrow was darker than the other shafts.

Oh well, just curious. Thanks

darker fletching might be enough to do it. not sure why it would be detected correctly when shot from a different bow though, possibly the fletching was at a slightly different orientation when it crossed the chronograph and registered more cleanly. chronos work best with bullets because thats what most of their customers use them for, I've always found them much more temperamental with arrows.

That's one of the reasons why I test my bows in a big field with a tape measure!

I have found that a picky chrono will often work better with blunt tips.

I have no experience. But could it be the shape of the point? And was it 2 blade broadhead which may create different shadows when rotating?

The radar ones used to work pretty well for paintball for 200-350fps+ (hot! for rules) and were not so light and color picky. Prices have come down on them also. IN fact the radarchrony for paintball refs might be cheaper then the archery marketed ones. I saw one go below 100fps and read above 430 once so they seem to have the right range.

Low -

What skeets said.

Or the arrows weights weren't as close as you think.

Viper out.

Shooting indoors? Were you using a light kit? Shooting outdoors we use a shade cover so the direct sun doesn't effect the meters.

And is each shot the duplicate of the other? I doubt it.

Always variances from shot to shot the one I used at my club. Just gave me a general idea is all with field points.

I always figured by the time the arrow went through the critter whats it matter its dead.

I have a Caldwell. It's so-so at best. I mostly bought it to test hand loads for my rifles, but use it occasionally for archery too.

The trick to chronos is to buy the light bars for it. The prevent errant shadows from effecting accuracy and consistancy. A shadow coming off you bow arrow quiver or any other source change everything.

I have a “Chroney” (SP ??) and Skeet’s has it right. In the instructions it states to use a more of a blunt point for best readings, better readings over the tapes ??? Lloyd

It can be a lot of things like different shadow projected by the broadhead etc, but additionally it can be a mental factor in too. You shoot your broadhead shot different than the rest. Mentally you are pumped up to see how good the bow is and you maybe overdraw a bit by having a straighter stance, better release, better everything that will add to the environmental conditions. Shoot 5 with broadheads in a row and let us know what the result is.

PS It makes sense to go back to the "normal" when you go with a heavier bow because I have the feeling you don't draw the bow the same length compared with the lighter one.

My rule of thumb found through experiments with same limbs at different draw weights (within reason) is #1 ~ 5 fps. Most of the "vintage" bows I have are in the #3-4 / 1" bracket for DL vs DW. 1" extra in DL will give you based on above rule 15-20 fps more.

Lighting! Do it out side.

Or hang a shop light above it.

The cheaper the moore.

Good luck.

I have a LabRadar, highly recommended. The fatter your arrows are, the better it works. The only disadvantage is, you have to be at least 25 yards from whatever target medium you are shooting into, or the reflection from the target medium will give you an error code.

What's a chronograf?

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