ok guys. I am thinking about trying some popcorns on my new 41 lb bow. Where do I start with spine. Is bare shafting the same

1816s work for many imo.

Ok thanks buddy.

My wife shoots 1716's 28" long w/100 gr. points out of 40#.

1716/1816 depending on other variables

What is your draw length and what weight point will you be using? Also will that 41#'s be the draw weight at your draw length? Those factors do make a difference in shaft recommendations. 41#'s at 30" of draw will have a different shaft than one with 41#'s at 27" of draw. Also point weight will make a difference 100gr, 125gr, 145gr points? Yes bare shaft tuning will be the same. Nice part is shooting aluminum, you can shorten your shafts length with tubing cutter. Starting long and working your way shorter. Just be sure to use hot melt glue when gluing in your inserts. Easy in, Easy out using it. Just set your torch on its lightest setting so it doesn't go out, so you don't over heat the shaft, or an alcohol lamp. You may already know this, but I don't take anything for granted. DANNY

I find this site very helpful for choosing arrow spine;

https://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator- from-3rivers-archery.html

When i checked that link, it was not opening to the exact page, click on the Spine Calculator

125 grain point and 27 1/2 inch draw. But I don't care if the arrow is longer as long as it flies well.

I 've been using full length 31.25" Easton Tributes in 1816. 28" draw length. 75 grain points for 40#. 100 grain for 35#. Really happy with results. Target shooter only.

JR, you need to consider string material as well, and your bow is likely cut inside of center, so you have a wider variety of spines to choose from. What's you furthest distance you plan to shoot? You may need to go to a 1916 at 28+ inches with your setup. It's a dynamic sport and the variables are numerous.

Good point George. I am not sure what string I am going to use. What do you recommend? I may order a few shafts from Lancaster as they let you order them individually. Thanks

I'd sure put 1916s on the list to try, first.

I shoot a 40# Bear Montana...and my draw length is 27”. For me...a 29” 1816 with 125g up front fly really really well. Think mine weigh in around 440 grains. Killed a bunch of deer with this combo.

I would try 1816 and 1916.

1916's

ok guys. I am thinking about trying some popcorns on my new 41 lb bow?

Where on a bag of popcorn do you find those numbers "1816, 1916 ect. the only thing I ever see is the best if used by date. that's some old popcorn

Where do I find these "popcorn" shafts,do they come in "extra butter"?

George added the a couple of the things I thought about after I went to bed. Longbow or Recurve will make a difference also. String material is a matter of preference when it comes to the High Performance Materials, it allows you to shoot a stiffer arrow and gives you a little more speed. B50 or B55 will shoot on any bow. I know George recommends the High Performance Material on any bow, I just have a hard time doing that, if the bow limb tips are not made for it, and is not my bow. If it is "my" bow, if I use High Performance Material on a bow not made for it, something happens (like a dry fire situation), it was my choice. If this situation doesn't happen, then the bow is no worst for wear using these materials. Just a chance you take with "your" bow. In all fairness things can happen with B50 and B55 in the same situation, just not as likely. DANNY

1916s are much more resistant to bending than 1816s but they require heavier points to tune well. I keep both on hand for middle weight and light bows. - lbg

BS -

Kinda depends on draw length/arrow length and head weight.

<29" arrow and with target points, think 1816.

>30" arrow and >125 grain up front, then 1916.s

Viper out.

I would try 2013/14.

1916’s

1816,s

I know this is a bit more poundage but I'm shooting 31 inch 2016's with about 155 grains up front at 43 lbs and they are working for me.

1916's and even 2016's with 145 on nose.

have no clue what the bow is, could be the newest Border or a Bear montana, leaves a lot of room for options. just a plane recurve or longbow , 1816 with 100 grains up front, play with length, but that's for a 28" or less draw.

58 inch bow Morrison lims. 27.5 inch draw.

I use 18/16's also,100gr. point weight, at that poundage.

Morrison bow I am depending on arrow length I am leaning towards either 1916 or 2016. DANNY

Selection also depends on how much the riser is cut past center. You can use a heavier shaft if cut past center "more".

My aluminum arrow shaft selection on my 35-40# @ 28" bows run from 1816, 1916 to 2016. All full length. I draw near 30".

I modified a Samick Journey riser ( same riser as Samick Sage, but the Journey has longer linbs to make an amo 64" bow), to be about 1/4" cut past center- with strike plate. With 35# limbs, it is tuned to shoot full length 2016 xx75 Easton Tribute shafts, with 175 grain points.

It works great for 3d shoots to 32-35 yards. I shoot 3-under. With this set up, gap is pretty low. "Point on" range is 32 yards, so a 30-32 yard shot is almost "gimme.". For 17-20 yards, I gap off the top of the strike plate ( and it is 1" above the arrow, so it is legal for IBO events. I set my nock point about 3/4" above perpendicular.

Put it all together, and it makes a fantastic shooting ( and winning) outfit.

Heals fast.

Oops. Meant "Heal fast" , from your shoulder surgery.

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