I'm wanting to put together some fatties for indoor league. Ive never had any before. I shoot .400/.500 spine but most everything I see is .300/.250 and the lack of heavyweight points for these to get it even close to spined out has me a bit mind boggled. I'm not looking to start a skinny vs.fat arrow debate and I know I can shoot alluminium but I want to shoot carbons. Any help on this is appreciated. Thanks all..

I posted this on another forum and not getting much help. I'm not new to shooting curves or longbows, I understand spine and how every thing factors in. I am however new to target shooting and trying to get some fatties set up.

I've never seen a "line cutter" that was carbon personally. Wasn't aware they made them in that large a diameter in reasonable spines.

If you want Fatty's for indoor shooting...Shoot Aluminum's. They are straighter and more consistent.

Yes Sir I use to shoot 2413 all the time and 2512 for a spell. Still have a couple dozen Autumn Orange 2413 XX75 new uncut shafts. I just don't play the games anymore but it sure was a lot of fun. I used them for 3D on our heavily wooded/lack of wind range also.They will definitely catch the higher scoring line from time to time. Good luck and have fun. >>>>------> Ken

You've gotta leave them full length, use five inch feathers, and look into glue in points from Ethics Archery. Shafts like the Tremors from Element Archery come with heavy glue in points, or you can buy them from Element Archery.

Carbon has come a long way in straightness. Aluminum no longer has that advantage. That said, the price of aluminum is better.

Check the Carbon Express Tank 23 and Tank 25 shafts. The 23s are available in .400 and .500, the 25s are .400.

Thanks spookinelk, glad someone is catching on to what I'm asking help for.

If you don't have the Lancaster Archery catalog, call them and ask for one. It has *everything* (almost.) For more info see -

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/contact-us/

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/victory-nvx-23-sport-v6-arrow-shaft.html

Decent price on these.

The problem is that it's harder to build a large-diameter carbon shaft in lighter spines without going to very thin walls. This makes for fragile shafts.

I manufacture some large diameter shafts in that spine range. They are around .400od on the tip end and .265od on tail.

Fat ones may be line cutters but they can deflect and arrow easier. With the smaller carbons you can get 5-6 or more in the X on a blue face target.

Unless your shooting a 3 or 5 spot target then you'll be fine.

Maybe carbon is getting better for straightness, it is not close the consistency of aluminum which has a controlled wall thickness that can't be obtained with a wrapped composite. The good thing is none of us are good enough to realize the exactness of those aluminum shaft arrows. Most carbons won't even spine the same around the shaft 360 degrees. What does that mean to guys like us? Nothing, but they are not equal in straightness from the get-go.

Gcg2 check your PM's

I could use some Line Approachers.

Thanks David.. And jk that's funny right there :)

Thank u guys.. found what I was looking for

I resemble that remark. Most aluminum shafts in the 500 range are larger in diameter than the carbon shafts of the same spine and I believe the 2512 are the same spine as the 2117 just thinner walled, larger diameter and ultra light. DANNY

Yes 2413 & 2512 are fat and fast. >>>>------> Ken

George, the carbons are just as straight as the aluminum shafts. But aluminum will still win on spine consistency as you stated.

George, the carbons are just as straight as the aluminum shafts. But aluminum will still win on spine consistency as you stated.

How do you shoot 2512s out of a stick bow? If you are shooting target weight bows, you would need a hell of a head. Cool advantage to shooting releases with metal risers and the right rest is that spine does not mater. You can shoot anything that is stiff enough, too stiff is not a problem, but how do you do that with a finger release? I am all ears.

If you have to go to too much weight, the arrow is on the string longer, and that has it's effects also.

Actually there are several ways. My way was 55# bow cut past center. 34" 2512 shafts . 31" draw 3 x 5" feathers 125 grain point for a little over 200 feet a second and grabbing the higher scoring line to boot. If you read my post, that was only for a short time and I went to 2413. It was my favorite. Like I said I still have a couple dozen of those uncut un fletched left over. I have a few 2514 35" with out a nock & swedged ends. Lots of combinations out there. >>>>-----> Ken

A 2512 is roughly (there is a little difference) the same spine as a 2117. A 2213 is roughly the same as a 2018. Fat shaft is relative. In aluminum they went with a larger diameter and thinner wall to get the similar spine range and also lighten the shaft weight for speed. The down side is they are not as durable, as the heavier thicker walled shaft of he same spine, meaning they bend easier. So you have to be more careful pulling them. Easton use to put the words Light and Ultra light on these shafts, meaning they were comparable in spine to a heavier shaft. Example 2018 (was the standard heavy shaft), 2115 (was the Light), 2213 (was the Ultra Light).

For those that don't know and many don't: The first two numbers in an Aluminum Shaft refer to the shaft's diameter in 64th's of an inch, the second two numbers refer to the shaft's wall thickness in 1/1000's of an inch. 2018: 20/64's diameter, 18/1000's wall thickness. DANNY

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