Fellows I don’t have this issue but my buddy is tall w a long draw. He’s at 31” w compound. He wants to get a styk but being I’ve shot none w a longer draw what do you long draw guys have luck with? He can get a bow second hand and I told him he should for now. If anyone has input please advise. Thanks

There’s a 64” version of the Sage (or whatever they call it now!)... I set my bro-in- law up with one. He used to be around 6’ 4”and I haven’t heard of any issues...

If he’s just starting out I’d get as long a bow as possible with a long draw like that. Otherwise it will stack. I’m thinking long riser, long limbs that are light. ILF would be good to learn on.

I'm normal height (6'2") and I used to draw full 32" with my compound. Then ended up at 29" with my first "manly" recurve.

Now I'm back up to 30-1/4" with 55 lb recurves and still a very erect and closed stance.

I cut 31-1/2" BOP for finger clearance with broad heads and gloves.

I like 58" bows just fine. Roots, Shakespeares, Red Wing Hunters (IMHO none better) . My hands down favorite is a Browning Explorer 62" that is both fast and quiet.

I can shoot my 56" Browning Wasp a few times (bloody fast) but it starts to hurt my piddies after a dozen shots.

Maybe a long bow would do the trick. Or a long recurve like a Wing slim line. Think they were 70".

I draw an honest 31.5 dl. I shoot a 64” satori, a 17” dryad epic riser with xl longbow limbs and just received a 60” black widow pch. They all have positive things and negative things about them. All three draw smooth to my draw length.

If your buddy draws 31" with a compound he'll probably have a shorter draw with a trad bow. Let him draw your bow and measure his draw length by marking the arrow as he comes to full draw. Best if he closes his eyes and come to a comfortable anchor before you mark the arrow. Have him do this several times to be sure.

As to what length, weight too for that matter, he should try different bows first to get some feel before laying down some cash. This should be a fun process. There's no need to rush.

Oh yeah, I drew 31" shooting compound with fingers. Now I'm down to 30" with trad bows.

Thank you guys. I do understand he’ll shrink draw. He’s a few states north of me do I’m trying to help him from afar

Bow length alone doesn't mean a bow will be easier to pull, or not stack, etc. Limb design dictates stack more than length. I still think most people encounter a sharper string angle with shorter bows and call that stack. Best he shoot some if he can. Won't be long till the summer shoot schedule is in full swing.

George, he’s from Maine. Not sure how many bows he would come in contact with or how many shoots are available up there but this is the advice I’d give myself if the option was there

Mike,

PM "crookedstix", Kerry's from Maine, he may be able to help your friend and/or point him in the right direction.

"Fletch", Rick, is also.

Ralph

Well, I had the opposite happen with my transition back to a recurve from a compound. With a compound you have a wall that you can set to help if you wanted to shorten your draw up for multiple reasons. I had my compound set at 30" maybe 29.5". Anyway, when I started with the recurve again, my draw went to 31" because of where I was comfortable at anchor and in good form. Longer draws suck, to me anyway, you get limited in arrow/broadhead setups and yes, bows will stack on you. I tried the shorter (under 60") bows and for what ever reason they started having limb issues with my Bear Grizzly breaking at the fade. So, I don't even look at a bow unless they are at least 60". My go to bows are 62" or 64".

Alignment is alignment. If he has it with his compound it won't change his draw shooting a recurve.

Stacking or smoothness isn't as much of an issue as string angle. Have him think about how much string would be on his fingers at full draw if he drew his comound with fingers compared to a 70 inch bow. Release is critical and with more string on your fingers it's gets more critical.

Your asking second hand so money is/maybe an issue. The cheapest and fastest learning curve will be to get an ILF riser and some 30ish pound limbs (about 36 to 39 at his draw). Shopping on TT or AT he's looking at 250 bucks. Then after learning he can get some heavier limbs for hunting - 150 bucks. That's probably still cheaper than a wood bow. I bought my first light limbed coaching bow for under 200.

If he can't find a coach in ME, PM me and I'll find one for him. Plan on buying the beers if he gets a coach.

Bowmania

I should have also mentioned that when he wants to upgrade, he can sell the system for about what he bought it for.

Bowmania

Alignment is alignment. If he has it with his compound it won't change his draw shooting a recurve.

Yes, that is true. But, I wanted to have my bow arm bent a little more when I shot with heavy cloths on. So, I shortened my draw using the same anchor.

most well made fiberglass bows can handle the longer draw,, just take into consideration the weight will be more than marked,, something not too short,,,med length,,if you can find a good deal,, get him started,, as he developes he can adjust when he upgrades,,

southwestarchery.com has the Spider and Spider XL (riser is the same for both, length difference is in the limbs) which basically is the same as the Sage bow, limbs are interchangeable. The Spider XL is the 64 inch version, same as the Sage Journey 64inch. I don't think you can find the "Journey" limbs anymore. I have a 30 inch draw and the limbs I am shooting are the 50#@28". The bow has a smooth draw to my draw length, more so than the 62" version the Spider/Sage. On that last inch of my 30" draw, the 62" stacks for the same weight at 28" and is noisier when shot at the longer draw length than the 64'. The bow for the money is impossible to beat and yes I have customs. I like my customs but this bow is the best bow purchase I have ever made. I had shoulder surgery, bought multiple limb weights to rehab back with it, and didn't cost a fortune. Buying it new he will get a warranty with it, the limbs are inexpensive if he wants to change weight. The ONLY thing I really did (and would suggest doing) was put a High Performance String on the bow when I got it new, which it is made for. I shoot my customs but I shoot this bow more. It just shoots that well. Not the fastest or the slowest but a good solid performer. Bowmania mentioned ILF which is a good way to go also and is a better performer in the long run. The Spider XL is just less expensive and a very good performer, till he learns to shoot traditional, figures out what he really wants in a bow, and can afford to spend more. Just my thoughts. DANNY

On the alignment thing, if we were talking lighter weight target bows I def agree. With hunting weight often a bit is lost. Not many hunters I know have a stand up perfect target archery form as with a compound. Not saying there’s no form, follow through or repeatability it’s just slightly different very often and you see dL shifts. Now if he’s shooting a loop, which I’m not sure he is he’d be the same most likely

Yep, I live in Maine. Waterville area. Maybe we can meet somewhere, so he can try a bow or three that may draw 30+".

Two thumbs up for the Southwest Archery Spyder XL amo 64" (refined version of the Samick Journey). I draw 30", and this bow is smooth to 30+++". Great bow for $150.

Actually it's nearly impossible to predict what his draw length will be. It's going to be very dependent on the "style" of shooting that he settles on. 29" isn't a long draw, and as George said, there are many things that affect how the draw cycle of a bow feels besides length.

I have 31in draw and shoot a 60in Chastain wapiti it is smooth and has zero stack. Bow design has more to do with stack than length. Ive shot Big Jims Thunderchild 58in and zero stack.

papa, I agree with how stack impacts everything. I am waiting on new limbs for my custom and am shooting my 50# @ 28" OMP. My draw is 31" and when I get past 30", that thing is like hitting a wall.

papadeerhtr,

You are right it does depend on design. I normally don't recommend a Custom bow for a newbie to start with because of cost. UNLESS the bow is used, the person has shot it can handle the weight, likes the feel, it is a good price, AND they know for sure they are going to stay dedicated to shooting a traditional bow. I try and stay on the economical side of Traditional introduction. I have see people start and after a year totally quit, those who fall in love with it, and start trying different bows till they find the one that they want as a Custom. I also would rather have them start with a little longer bow if there is a possibility of a longer draw length, till they learn to shoot fingers so they can get off the string cleaner. DANNY

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