I haven't played with a lot of aluminum. I've looked around for info here and google and can't seem to find much on heavier inserts for the xx75 2016 other than the standard 20 grain aluminum inserts. Does anyone know of some heavier inserts that will fit these shafts? The ones I did find are for the Gamegetter 2 500. It says 2016. Is that the same size as a Autumn Orange "xx75" 2016? It says 2016 so it's probably a silly question but I have no desire to order something from 3 rivers that isn't going to work. Thanks for your help, Greg

3 Rivers should be able to answer that for you, then you can order.

Not sure why you want a heavy insert? Unlike carbons, the weight in an aluminium arrow is in the shaft. That's why there are no heavy inserts.

And yes, the GG 500 is a 2016. Same insert.

You’re probably going to end up with RiverWolf’s suggestions. We used to have more size selection we used to select the shaft size, BH, and cut the shaft as needed.

I was planning on using a 100 grain broadhead on these and might want to add a little up front. Both sets of aluminum inserts I have the hole didn't go through so I tapped it the rest of the way. The thing is for add on weights there is very little hole left once the tip is screwed in. I mean very little like a 1 1/2 turns and it hits the tip shank.

As far as asking 3 rivers I have asked questions more than one of them and have never received an answer. I'm on their regular ad emails so I know they'd get through.

I looked at 3 Rivers site and the only heavy inserts listed for 2016s are brass 100 grains.

MP

What brand of 100 gr BH are you using?

Seems if you are using 100gr. points, and the standard insert is too light, you are likely using too stiff a spine to begin with. There shouldn't be a nickle's worth of difference in shooting those arrows with 100gr, points or 125gr. points.

Just my though.

fdp I haven't even started yet. Just like to gather stuff. I like lots of options.

shoot heavier heads.

Use a 135-175 grain BH...lots of choices in that range. What is your draw weight on the bow?

Sparky, you can always grind off a bit of the threaded shank on the head, and clean up the threads. That will give you more purchase for your insert weights.

But I have to agree with Pdiddly, plenty of b'head choices out there. 3 Rivers used to have a chart showing heads, weights and screw-in or glue-on for all the heads they sold. Might still be out there.

I'm beginning to believe that I don't go about things like most other people. I believe you can set some parameters before you begin. I pick a certain broadhead regardless of it's weight, it's the one I want to shoot on a particular bow. I have a FOC target area. Then based on the bow and the other specifics I build an arrow that flies properly around that. I don't get different spines and point weights and play around until I get good flight then settle for whatever point weight happens to be. Whatever FOC happens to be. I don't understand that and I surely can't be the ONLY one.

This bow is a very nice Vintage Bear Minuteman Green riser Brown limbs 60" 45# @ 28". I'm setting up a vintage 70's bow for fun. I have a Bear quiver. I'm shooting 2016 Autumn Orange arrows. With a not quite as old Bear Razorhead lite (because it's Bear and I like the color of the green in it, haha). I'm not so much worried about HFOC on this bow. I want to use the natural weight of the arrow. I want to keep the weight down and speed up. However I do have a minimum FOC in mind all the same. 2016's might be stiff. The minuteman is cut past center and I'm starting with full length shafts. I'm not one that needs the shortest arrow possible, but have no problem trimming. I'm not necessarily opposed to bumping the tip up a little to correct flight. Now could I be completely off base? Maybe but I think I'm close. I have 3 fletched and 3 bare ready to go. I'll know for sure in a week or so when I let some fly. Even with the 2016 I'm hoping at full length they show weak. At that tip weight and full length my FOC Will be a little lower than I want so I can add some to the front, but don't want to shoot a 600 grain arrow out of this bow. I think it'll work out fine. Time will tell. If it doesn't work I will have learned some good lessons along the way and make me a better builder down the road. I'll have Great Fun Along The Way!

Sparky....it doesn't make a hill of beans difference how for the 76'er is or isn't built past center. The only thing that matters is the centershot measurement based on how you have it set up.

If you don't want to shoot a heavy arrow as you indicated, why did you start with a 2016" thereother choices that are a for better match for that draw weight than a 2016. or did you just have some laying around?

You aren't using the "natural weight of the arrow" if you are looking for heavier inserts already are you?

fdp I haven't really played with aluminum. Shoot carbons. Although I don't much faith in carbon spine charts beings how I'm trying something different I used Stu's chart on Ricks site and aside from these being Autumn Orange which I wanted the chart shows they should work cut. So at full length to start and the past center and the option of adding weight even though I would rather not I have to be somewhere close I'd think. I initially was gonna go with a 1916 but I could get these and I didn't see why they wouldn't work. Why would how it's cut not effect spine? I finished tuning the bow I chose for hunting last year by bumping the side plate a little instead of cutting again. Help me out here. I thought past center allowed for a stiffer arrow? Not by any great proportions but by some degree. It's not that I don't want to shoot a 450-500 grain arrow I don't want to go much above that.

"Why would how it's cut not effect spine?" Because that's how is built from the factory, with noting on the sight window. Unless you are going to shoot it like that, it doesn't matter.

If the bow is cut to center, and you add 1/* thickness of sideplate/sight window material is is then 1/8" before center.

"Not by any great proportions but by some degree" actually it can be to a huge degree just depending on how far past center the bow is actually set up.

The brass inserts mentioned above will fit your shafts. A 2016 is a 2016 as far as inserts are concerned.

fdp no i get that but it's not center cut or before is what I meant. Which again would affect spine if I were starting there instead of where I am. After vrs at or before

That's why I said some and not a lot because it only 1/8 past. I was talking about this particular bow.

I made some time today. They are showing weak. Yay!

I have the 100 grain 2016 inserts from 3Rivers. They fit great in the Legacy and Gamegetter shafts but will not fit into the older Autumn Orange shafts.

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