If a 480 spine arrow is a little stiff with 200gr up front could I drop to a 600 spine and 125gr and keep the same length arrow?

Probably yes...because spine etc of the earlier arrows you described was probably waaay wrong.

Put your numbers in one of the spine calculator apps. That will give you the answer.

MP

I used the calculator 3 rivers has it said the 480 with 200 gr point was dead on. I have not shot carbon before so I'm not familiar with them. Thanks Rick

How are the 480's flying?

Rich...you said your #480 were stiff... So 3rivers chart was irrelevant as usual (as with every chart). Most bows will beautifully shoot the carbon setup you described...no matter type. Be brave.

Oops,I guess you were just checking and haven't picked yet.

Flash the 480s are kicking a little and impacting to the left I'm right handed. Thanks Rick

Thanks Jk will give the 600s a try. Rick

1st...define "a little stiff". Is it close enough that it can be tuned by increasing centershot? Personally I try other avenues prior to buying new arrows.

Only you can tell us.

IT'S .480. It's deflection.

Bowmania

fdp impacting approximately 6 inches to the left at 20yrds with a visible kick upon release. I'm as close to centershot as I can be now. I ordered some 600 spine for my wife is why i asked about 600s. Rick

Bowmania I'm not sure how to take your above post. I am aware its .480 and its deflection. Thanks Rick

Here's the easy way to chose arrows for a bow, and it saves lots of time and money in the long run.

Decide what weight arrow/broadhead combination you want to shoot, or, buy a test kit of various weight filed points. Then, by a test kit of arrows (for example .400, .500 and .600) in the arrow length you want to shoot. Get 2 fletched and one bare, or vice versa if you prefer. Then read the tuning information that Bowmania posted in the link above.

That will solve all your problems. You can have a bow shooting dead on the money in less than an hour.

Rick, Part of my response is you could have a guy shooting the exact same bow, arrow, and draw length, but that same arrow may or may not be spined for you.

With the lack of . or including # deflection/spine doesn't mean a lot.

Bowmania

I should have worded it differently what I was wondering was would a 600 with a 125 gr head be weaker than a 480 with a 200 gr head if both shafts were the same length. Rick

6" inches left at 20 yards is a lot, not "slightly."

Shooting full length suggests 3d...where 6"/20 would mean a whole lot more at least half of the time. If you go ahead with your #600 idea and start to want stiffer again you can fix that with a thicker plate or plunger adjustment.

Rocket science is always wrong.

Having a test kit does end up being the most effective way to test what arrow you need.Without it, your guessing to some extent.

Without mentioning the weight of the bow, I don't know how any of this is relevant.

As mentioned, 6" to the left at 20 yards, with a slight kick on the loose equals a very stiff arrow for your setup. It would be helpful to have all the gozintos you are using but regardless, you 480 is showing much too stiff. That means you need to go to softer spine.

600s are very versatile.can be made to work on a lot of bows.

A 480, with 200 up front, could weigh in at 500 grains or more.

A 600, with 125 up front, can weigh in as little as 290 grains.

If we're talking about a 50# bow it certainly is relevant.

A full length 600, with 125 up front, will fly great out of a wide variety of bow weights.

However, a 480 with 200 up front will not. Seems to me that shaft length and bow weight are always necessary to formulate any arrow combination.

IMO carbon "test kits" tell us that the vendor wants to sell us an extra something, rather than paying an experienced person to engage in the simplest possible initial telephone conversation.

Certain of our LW friends believe in charts because they seem "scientific), but those friends constantly fight about them.

Call Lancaster and ask them, if you're not satisfied with LW. Their people are very experienced.

In my experience, #600 work amazingly well with LBs and Recurves from 40# to perhaps 60# with 125 gr, with or without the heavy bronze inserts that I like with my full length shafts.

I have the same experience as JK above.

I am of the belief that many people shoot overspined. I love 600's

Thanks for the replies. I messed with the 480s some more this afternoon still wasn't making sense how stiff they were showing so I started checking my setup. I found I had added a toothpick behind my side plate to get my cedars tuned removed the toothpick adjusted brace a little and was able to get the 480s flying better but not great. Shooting at a vertical line at 20yrds I'm between 1 and 2 inches to the left now. Rick

What do you have on the sideplate? You need to weaken the spine of the arrow. So, you either add point weight, or increase centershot. Either one will work.

I now have a thin piece of calf hair. Rick

Try with no side plate at all. That's not your ultimate answer because itll be noisy but it'll be better than what you've got now.

Shawn...1/16" difference in centershot is about a spine group.

"100% of the time they could easily add 50 grains of point weight and a lot of times more and see improved flight. Shawn"

That's a pretty bold statement.

I would like to thank everyone who took time to share their thoughts. I got the 600s and they work beautiful. Thanks Rick

Of course.

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