I mistakenly hit a button and deleted this thread. It was a mistake and I apologize.

I hope the original poster will post again.

Ok . Mistakingly deleted Let’s try again . I have a new to me bow that has a milky haze under the gloss finish on the riser only .the limbs are Beautiful Crystal clear . So any recommendations On how to get rid of it . I said I was going to try a product By mohawk refinishing products Called Amalgamator

In my experience the only way to get rid of haze in the finish is to refinish the bow. You can try an approach yorktown5 (Rick Rappe) has mentioned here before - soften the finish with a refinishing product, moosh it around and let it dry without removing it. I have my doubts that it will work in this case because the haze may be caused by a number of things including a reaction within the old finish.

Is the riser wood a "oily" wood? Like Bocote, Cocobolo or other Rosewoods. I had a bow 20 years ago that would get a cloudy milky look to it if it got rained on, but would clear up after it dried out. My wife had a custom built bow that had spots like you described but all over the bow, the Bowyer refinished it 3 times before it stayed clear. He said he had a bad batch of finish. Deet in bug spray can wreck a bows finish too, in the 1980s I got some on a painted riser grip once, melted the grip area paint into a sticky mess..

I have a Red Wing Hunter with Rosewood that did the same thing as RoboetFI stated. When it got rained on the riser would turn milky in one spot.

I took a hair drier and heated that spot, then took a straight pin and poked that area several time. heated again to almost hot to touch. Has not come back since.

Just the opposite, I have a red wing hunter that the limbs looked streaked and one limb looked as if rained on it and left spots. Tried cleaning and waxing with little success.

If I have to strip the finish off would you use zipsrip like when you strip furniture ?

Please show a pic of the milky haze. thanks.

Pics

More pics

Possible to many coats of satin or flat sealer was used to make it smooth. Gloss only epoxy sealer for me. Then two coats of flat or satin. That way it will not get all milky. JF

If you have to remove the finish I suggest that you scrape the finish off. I personally won't use ANY chemical stripper on a laminated bow. You never really know if, when, or how the chemical makeup of the product may have been changed. And you never really know what affect that change may have on the glue up.

I know there are losts of folks who do use them, But I'm not going to.

Even though I use mostly rattle cans I follow the same process when I want a satin finish. Gloss first then satin on top.

Bodymanbowyer . I think your right about to many coats . I Started to scrape the finish off the risers with a razor blade It got thinner towards the limbs .some spots were so thin one lick With the blade and it came off . Sand paper and a Alcohol wash . Gloss Poly and I think it will be good . ????

It happens on some bow builds flat satin or semi-gloss all has what they called talc so I've been told in it that's what makes it dull if you build up finishing the grain with too many coats of that you're going to lose the transparency and see the wood. So I only use gloss epoxy sealer to do all my grain fill work on the wood only. Last time I sand it down it looks great and then I spray with helmsman spar burnisher thing three coats still see the pretty wood. Jf

Could be that the bow was exposed to moisture before the finish was fully cured. Either from the riser itself or an exterior source.

MP

Maybe call Ed and see what the Bowyer says? If the item you are applying the finish to is not warm enough and there's any moisture in air the item could get milky. A heat gun used on a small item to warm up.

You need to have the right conditions to apply a clear finish or a color finish because it could blush on you.

That's what the milky condition is referred to in automotive. All professional painters know about this blush.

Just some possibility's. I thought I had herd Ed was having some refinish issues one year and not sure if this may have been one of them in that era. I would ask the bowyer.

This is not the Bowyer I thought incidentally before the original thread go axed.

Mpdh x2- that appears like a moisture / humidity issue to me. I’ve had it happen on a rifle stock and had to refinish it

Well I’ve got it scraped and sanded . Just waiting for it to warm up .going to use a auto clear coat

A word of caution with auto clearcoat - give it a couple of days to dry between coats. I hurried one bow and the first coat never cured, causing the finish to become soft. Also after the finish cures scratches show white and aren't easy to hide.

Other than that auto clearcoat is easy to work with and gives an excellent gloss finish.

Thanks Phil ????

That's where it b li'l ushers. Back 35 years ago that was common in summer. Too warm with high humidity caused automotive paints to dry too fast so had to use a little retarded to slow drying down or it would dry too fast trapping humidity and causing clearcoat to blush. Lacquer was the worst for blushing.

Man spell check played Hanvock on my post

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