What is the finish that is used on a traditional recurve bow? I am working on removing paint from a Bighorn "Colorado" Takedown. I will probably need to put a coat or two of some meshing to refinish it. Is the original now finished in ployurethane, shellac, varnish or lacquer? Please advise.

If you cant spray a catalyzed varnish then I would 100% suggest you use Helmsman spray. 5-6 coats is plenty. I use the clear satin for hunting bows.

Remember helmsman sometimes won’t dry on exotic oily woods.

Helmsman is good but I also have had good luck with the Varathane brand.

Colorado riser is impregnated, laminated maple.

MP

If I were doing it, I would sand it down smooth and spray with a GLOSS polyurethane or Spar Urethane (Minwax has both). You will get a harder finish with gloss. If you want a dull finish like the original, you can buff it with 4/0 steel wool, which would be my preference. I would not be in a hurry to wax the finish. 1, let the finish cure well and harden for a couple of weeks. 2, If you should need to respray an area, the wax will make it impossible to respray. If you do wax it, use a hard wax. You can just leave it on for a dull flat finish or rub it in gently with 4/0 steel wool and then buff it to get a nice lustrous semi gloss finish. Very nice looking IMO.

"Colorado riser is impregnated, laminated maple. MP"

Ok thanks. What does this imply? There is definitely an original glossy finish on it.

does it mean i need to use only a certain type of finish I mean?

The laminated maple will allow any kind of finish right over it. There are a handful of tropical woods that require a wiped on coat of shellac to seal oils prior to using any type of finish.

Impregnated wood is already is quite a bit waterproof as it is and doesn't need a thick coat to protect it. It is also strong as heck. You can use what you like after you remove the old finish, and many just use rattle-can spray acrylic lacquer. Helmsman Spar has a good reputation and would be a good choice. Use as many coats as you like but two or three is generally good enough. Some folks like twice that many. Remember what you put on, you may want to take off again at some point.

This is why I love this site! Thank you GDS. This was very helpful. Dan

I will spray the limbs with the same polyurethane as the riser, correct?

Yes sir.

Sorry I didn’t answer your question after my first post. Had some chores to do and just got back. You got all the right info from the other guys though.

MP

Perfect thanks

If you hold the can back 14-16" on the last coat it will produce a spattered/frosty finish.

Yes, practice first on some scrap. The distance you hold the can from the bow is critical as is smooth even strokes.

Lessons learned the hard way - do NOT get in a hurry. It might look like the first coat isn't covering well, but don't make it a thicker coat or it may run or get sticky. That's why you will do two or three.

Follow the instructions on the can for room and curing temperature range, and for coating - some finishes direct you to either re-coat quickly, like before 30 minutes, or wait for many hours, like all day, but not in between.

Your first question - "What is the finish that is used on a traditional recurve bow?" - probably varies by the bowyer.

I have a custom bow from Curt Noetzold in Idaho. I was talking about finishes with him by email a few weeks ago because I sent him a limb to remove some writing and re-finish.

I learned from him that he uses a two part sprayed epoxy finish and it is incredible - a very tough slightly textured satin finish that looks and feels great in the hand.

I didn't know if 2-part epoxy finish could be done without a pneumatic sprayer, which is why I sent the limb to him. However there are several youtube's about 2-part epoxy in a rattle can that are available - gloss, satin, semi-satin, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNK1y1VISs0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mrD21NeSTE&t=97s

I've sprayed over a hundred bows, most with Minwax semigloss oil based poly. I have tried Thunderbird two part finish, but I'm just not talented enough to to produce the finish I want on my bows. I went thru several spray guns, trying for perfection, but I always came up short. The Minwax poly, and the Helmsman, work wonderfully for me.....easy to repair....easy to re-coat. I always spray at least 4 coats, then look for imperfections. If I find any, I wait 4 days, then use a Scotch- Brite pad or steel wool to rough up the side of the bow with problems, then spray on a couple more coats. Works for me. Richard

Alright, I removed all the paint with lacquer thinner. The limbs look like they have a coating that is moderately checked from years of being shot I guess. I have been told the coating may be Fullerplast. I have no way of knowing this for sure. What next? Do I sand the limbs to remove that coating? Do I simply etch it with steel wool and spray polyurethane over it? Please let me know if you have some advice. This is really new frontiers for me.

Before....

After paint is gone....

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