Hi Dan. More info might be helpful. Are the limb tips pointing to the same side, or in opposite directions? How bad is it? If it's not too bad, you might be able to let it go.
What kind of wood is it? Is it a store bought board? Flat, quarter, rift sawn? Does that sawn orientation stay consistent for it's length, or does it change? For instance, if it is quartersawn on one end, but looks more rift sawn on the other end and the grain runs out the side, the tree may have grown twisted. Flat boards can be cut from twisted trees, and can work ok for furniture makers, but they don't always like to behave for us bowyers. We're woodworkers too, but our craft is more 'dynamic'.
What shape is it in currently. Is it rectangular in cross section and perfectly flat side to side? How wide are the tips? Did you leave them wide enough to allow room to deepen the string groove on one side to move the string over? This is part of a technique used to correct limb twist that I'll elaborate on below.
Anyway, here are some things I look at when I have a wooden bow limb pointing toward the side upon first bracing it. Some of it is formality, because I'm very, very careful up to this point, but I always check these things again, and again to be sure.
There's a reason the limb(s) is pointing to the side, and it could be an internal, invisible thing within the wood, but I want to make SURE it wasn't something I did, even in some small part, to cause it. If I DID cause it, the fixes are generally simpler, so I kind of secretly hope I screwed up or missed something :^)
First I unbrace it, and lay a string(I use a single stand of bowstring with lead weights on either end), from tip to tip on the stave and check carefully to make sure that it indeed follows an accurate centerline and bisects the bow lengthwise. If there is an area with too much wood on one side, even less than a 16th of an inch in one spot, I correct it then. Make it as perfect as you can. Make sure the edges are flat, straight, smooth, perpendicular to the stave's back, and the width taper is accurate side to side. I'm pretty anal about width, width tapering, and thickness tapering. Even beyond limb twist, it just saves frustration and backtracking.
Does the string also accurately bisect the handle area? Just another alignment check. If the string is too far off center of the handle area, it can cause both limb tips to point thataway.
If not adequately seasoned, sometimes, left alone for a time, roughed in staves warp to the side as they finish drying, and warrant quickly double checking them again with the weighted string before work commences again. If they have warped due to further seasoning, and if already brought close to final dimensions, a heat correction may be the ticket.
Once all is well with those things, next I look to limb thickness accuracy. Most ANYone, unless quite aware and practiced, leans into a rasp, file, plane, spokeshave, scraper, sanding block, etc more on one side than the other as they work, which makes one side of the limb thinner than the other. It's easy to do, and after 20 years of this, I still have to be cognizant of this 'phenomenon'. This is a frequent cause, maybe the most frequent, of limb twist in wooden bows, so check the limbs up and down their lengths with a pair of outside calipers, digital calipers, mics, thickness gauge, whatever you have, to be certain that the limb, at any and EVERY point, is the same thickness across it's width. If not, carefully correct it now. A thin side is a weak side. Limb tips point to the weak side.
If all is well with the above and one or both limbs still point to the side, it could be inherent to the wood. Could be because of how it grew, but you still may be able to wrangle it into submission, or partial submission. Part of the joy of selfbow makin' :^)
If you left the tips wide enough up to this point(which you should have), you can deepen the string groove on the strong side and remove wood from the last few inches, just enough to correct limb shape, and this can help bring the limb into alignment. If you didn't leave it wide, you might be able to thin the strong side a little(just don't get too carried away or you can create other problems, like a hinge), or heat it and move it, or if it's not too bad, just leave it alone.
Many good shooting, long lasting selfbows aren't perfectly aligned. I once made a S shaped osage selfbow. Unstrung, it looked straight. Braced and drawn, the limbs twisted opposite ways. The top limb went left, the bottom limb went right. I shot the crap out of that thing. Shot good. But it drove me nuts, I couldn't stand to look at it, and I ultimately burned it in one of my culling frenzies :^)
Anyway, not trying to write a novel here... hope this helps a little.
