Got the urge 5 years ago to make a self bow from a tree cut off my own farm. Although it did not blow up I was not pleased with the out come. After missing weight by 5 lbs. I ended up with 47lbs at 27.5 in. After shooting several hunderd shots it took 2-3 inches of set. Not sure if good or bad performance. Before taking a lot of set it was shooting a 530 grian arrow 152 fps.

I am wanting to start on my second and was hoping to get some advise on what changes to make. Here are some details

Cut ,split,roughed out and sealed like recommeded. Let the stave dry for 3 years in my cabin with wood heat in the winter. I checked the weight with a fish scale from time to time and when no change I assumed it was dry. Maybe my firat mistake !

Not having a lot to go by other than what I picked up from the web, a few magazines articles and this site I went to work. My target weight was 55lbs. My draw is 27.5 so decided on 64". Bad spot on the end reduced it to 63"

I shoot a straight wrist so decide to make the center of the bow at the throat of the grip. I was hoping this would help with reducing hand shock. I went 5" each side of center for a 10" stiff handle. The limbs are equal length from the fades. I have since fliped the tips on this bow. Figure i am learning may as well try a recurve.

I have thick skin guys so let me know your honest opinion and what to do on the next one.

Got the urge 5 years ago to make a self bow from a tree cut off my own farm. Although it did not blow up I was not pleased with the out come. After missing weight by 5 lbs. I ended up with 47lbs at 27.5 in. After shooting several hunderd shots it took 2-3 inches of set. Not sure if good or bad performance. Before taking a lot of set it was shooting a 530 grian arrow 152 fps.

I am wanting to start on my second and was hoping to get some advise on what changes to make. Here are some details

Cut ,split,roughed out and sealed like recommeded. Let the stave dry for 3 years in my cabin with wood heat in the winter. I checked the weight with a fish scale from time to time and when no change I assumed it was dry. Maybe my firat mistake !

Not having a lot to go by other than what I picked up from the web, a few magazines articles and this site I went to work. My target weight was 55lbs. My draw is 27.5 so decided on 64". Bad spot on the end reduced it to 63"

I shoot a straight wrist so decide to make the center of the bow at the throat of the grip. I was hoping this would help with reducing hand shock. I went 5" each side of center for a 10" stiff handle. The limbs are equal length from the fades. I have since fliped the tips on this bow. Figure i am learning may as well try a recurve.

I have thick skin guys so let me know your honest opinion and what to do on the next one.

I’m impressed! Very good !!

Your tiller looks really good. The length is short for your 28" draw. I would suggest at least 65-66" ntn to keep set at bay and probably get a bit more power from it. Otherwise, great job.

I agree with Pearl. I think you did a good job overall. One thing I'd add is, the area of your dips/fadeouts could be less of an angle, more of a gradual curve where they ease into the working limb... and if it were me, I'd not worry about keeping both limbs the same length, and remove much of the upper 'riser' looking area, using that space to blend handle into limb with better flow. That's being kind of picky with my personal preferences though, and maybe you left it there like that to add a little more mass to the handle area. Just my 2 cents. Good job though. Tiller looks good.

Oh, one other thing for future reference... in order for us to accurately judge the tiller of a bow, we need a picture of the unbraced side profile as a baseline. Gotta know where it started.

Would reflexing the tips gain more performance or add draw weight?

Great looking bow. Good job.

Good job. That's a really nice bow for your first attempt. My advice is keep making them and your skills will improve. Once you have the concept (as you obviously do) practical experience and impartial advice from seasoned bowyers like the previous posts will vastly improve your efforts.

You don't have to shape your handle this way, I'm just posting this pic for the detail of the fades. They can blend smoothly into working limb and still allow you to shape the handle the way you want. If your handle shape, and a smooth blend, requires more room/length, just add it to the bow's overall length... if possible.

Thanks for the encouragement everyone

Pearl, I am hoping I can keep my next stave at 66". This one hav a bad knot so I cut it down.

Bugslinger: I fliped/reflexed the tips on this one and the weight went from 47 to 58 at 28. Did not think it would add that much. Need to retiller.

Jeff; I did see comments on a previous guys thread about the fades. Since I flipped the tips and need to retiller. Do you think I can make the adjustemnt to the fades now? Guess one of the reason I went with that much length in the riser. I was uncertain how to lay out the dementions. I also thought it would shoot better if cut closer to center so I left additional wood on the right side of the riser to compensate for it.

Thanks evryone for the help

Stefan,

Reflexing tips on a bow that is a bit too short only challenges it more causing more set. Set kills performance. I've seen 60# dogs and I've seen 40# missile launchers.

You could, but it's up to you bud. It probably isn't going to hurt anything the way it is. If you decide to do any work there, just be careful not to 'dig a hole' where the dips fade into the limbs.

Thanks guys. Figure if going to learn my as well learn now.

Very nice job, especially on your first, wished my first turned out close to that nice. What Jeff said about the fads especially the top one but other than that looks very good. Pappy

Good job! My first selfbow blew up in my face after about 300 shots - that was humbling! I've had much better luck since and you'll get better each time.

Very nice, Big Nine. Tiller looks good which is an excellent start.

I find the handle problematic in that you have a 10" nonbending handle and a 63" stave. Pretty short.

These days I do a 4" handle and 1.5-2 in. fades depending in the length of the stave.

Jawge

Well done for the first. As Pearl said make it longer. 1" limb for every inch of draw plus your handle. Where did it take the set? The whole limb or fade to mid limb. Need unstrung side profile. You are on the right road for sure . I imagine we will be seeing some real nice bows from you in the future. Arvin

Thansk everyone - lot of good advice keep it coming.

Pappy; Hope to see you at the Classic and work on my next one.

George; Hoping for 66' and will shorten the handle

Arvin- Sorry do not have side profile pic unstrung. Will try to get this weekend. Not sure if it will show much since I have since recurved the tips. My guess most of set was from fade to mid limb.

Very good job, I like the profile, and like George said, need more limb length, but overall, a really nice lookin' bow! And great advice Arvin, 1" of limb length for each inch of draw length, never heard that hear. Must have missed it.

That recommendation was for the next one, Big Nine. Don't change it now. :) Jawge

A no fail nock groove to nock groove calculation for any wood is: draw length x 2 + 10". Just adjust the bows width based off wood used.

Yep, that is a commonly accepted 'formula' for a bow with a stiff handle section. 2x draw length, plus 10".

I didn't invent the formula for sure. But it works pretty good! Arvin

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