I've done on TAS a short review for the White Feather Lark 19" ILF riser and I received an email asking about it, so I will post here my thoughts on it.

I was looking for a wood ILF riser but Tradtech and theirs never inspired me. Stingray by Southern Archery was an attractive one but it was 17" and I like the riser 19" and up. On Alternative Archery there was the White Feather Lark riser 2" big brother of Stingray and the price was perfect.

https://www.alternativess.com/archery/shop /White_Feather_Lark_19in_ILF_riser/WFLARK

I had the riser in 10 days and I really like it. I slapped on it my BF Ex limbs and here it is.

In terms of fit and finish it is very well done - the black micarta with red wood stripe and maple is a very nice combination. The grip is medium-low-ish, not too bulky not too slim - it fits me right. Entire bow (riser, limbs and string) weights 1260g / 2.78 lbs and the riser itself 845g / 1.86 lbs. After shooting for a while I think this riser is a very solid alternative for ILF shooters who don't like the metal risers. the riser is cut past centre - 0.125" eyeballing it, maybe a bit less. Once adding the side plate is near 0. I've cut a calf hair split finger tab I had laying around to make a side plate as thin as possible and I am happy with it. It has no bushings holes of any kind also.

The limbs are mediums and it makes for a 62" bow. With shorts will make a 60" and with longs will make a 64" bow.

Please forgive my ignorance, but what are bf ex limbs? Also, thanks for the review. Ive been debating this riser for some time now.

I had the same limbs on the Satori and with same setup - the bolts down - they gained #2. On Satori they were #52.6@28" on WFL they are #54.7@28" - at least on the scale I have. It looks like the pad angle is a tad steeper. The limbs at their origin are #50@28" on 17" riser.

For some reason that link didn't work for me.

This one did - https://www.alternativess.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0060851.3.13010913839813108658/WFLARK

It's a pretty looking riser.

BF EX are TradTech Carbon Extreme BF limbs actually.

I used on it different limbs: MK Vera, TTs, SF and Borders. I wouldn't recommend Borders on this riser because due to geometry of them the limbs are stressing somehow the "shoulders" - the area where the "shoulders" disappear in the limb pads to be more precise.

Since there is no way to add weights on the bottom, the top will tilt back if using just a sling. It's the nature of the beast with any wood riser (or bow for what I experienced), ILF or not.

I've been looking at this riser for awhile. Thanks for the review. It may be the tipping point. lol

Gents, just don't use me as excuse when facing your ladies wrath! Welcome

Riser came with no instructions, no shelf or side window material and no tools to adjust it, but it has a good black nylon soft-case. If is your first ILF, inform yourself.

I’ve had mine about 5 months now and it’s really a nice riser. It’s very similar in feel to the now discontinued TT Pinnacle II, but a little heavier and more refined.

That's a good looking riser.

I like it. Thanks for the review

Beautiful riser. I've been eyeing up the Stingray but I like the longer sight window that this one offers.

Well, I sure hope it shoots and feels as good as it looks. I have been looking around for a wood ILF myself. Thanks for the heads up on the WF. I should have one at my door next week sometime.

Draven: If the WFL gets more weight out of the limbs than your Satori riser, wouldn't that mean that the limb pad angles are shallower(not steeper), putting more initial/early stress on the limbs.

I can't find the riser on the website. Can you share what it costs?

Orion, look under traditional, then select risers.

It depends what plane I take in consideration as my reference. I considered my horizontal plane as angle reference - aka steeper angle in this case. If I would have considered the vertical plane as reference it would have been shallower.

What Brian Waters said, look under Traditional section.

Nice looking riser. What are those set screws at the end of the limb pocket in the side of the riser for?

Those setscrews are for the lateral limb alignment.

Nice riser

Jim .,what do they move? My Olympic rig doesn't have them.

Actually the lateral alignment on my Olympic riser is accomplished by an adustable eccentric bushing at the limb butt. I can't see what could be moved at the other end?

SB,

The screws push against the female ILF dovetail slot. You simply loosen one side and tighten the other. That moves the slot laterally.

All risers with the setscrews on the end work the same way. Morrison (wood & metal), Hoyt Satori, Excel, Horizon, BearPaw, Tradtech Titan's and the wood Trident, Dryad metal riser, etc, etc.

Huh...Thanks Jim. All of my risers have the dovetail machined into the riser. Nothing adustable there. Like I mentioned mine all adust at the bushing. I didn't know there was adjustable dovetails!

You can see setscrews and how the dovetail pivots in this picture.

So you have to loosen the main screw first? Pic makes it clear to me now. Thanks again Jim!

Just bought one yesterday.

I've been looking for some time, at the 19" White Feather Lark ILF riser at Alternative Archery UK, and the 17" version ("Stingray" $250) at Southwest Archery. Went with the 19" White Feather Lark ( a little longer , and lower price). My ILF long limbs will give me a smooth drawing 64" bow on the 19" riser.

$182, including shipping from England.

Happy (belated ) birthday to me.

https://www.alternativess.com/cgi- bin/htmlos.cgi/0071172.4.19344600368343822293/WFLARK

https://www.southwestarcheryusa.com/collections/replacement- parts/products/southwest-archery-stingray-ilf-riser-15-left-hand

BIG NEWS for Lark fans- About a year back I worked through Alternative Services to the Distributor of the Lark, asked them to speak to manufacturer of Lark about larger versions. Additionally I found the manufacturer and requested they consider larger versions.

This week they went live on the Alternative Services pages in UK. The page is only semi updated, but if you choose quantity and SIZE you can get RH and LH 21" and 23" in "pre-order" status. I just submitted order for both, will soon own from 17" to 23" in same style. Long term I plan to do a draw force vs. draw length test and see how the different lengths change the force curve- especially out at 32.5", my personal draw length.

I own both the 17" Southwest Stingray and the 19" White Feather Larks, and am a huge fan of their design and shooting feel. For reference I also have other risers, and a bit of experience over last year mainly on shooting: Border Covert ILF 25" Bear Takedown: Mag- B and C // Wood- Viking and Kodiak "C" SF Archery: Forged @25" and Axiom at 21" Misc other risers, and about 8-10 one piece bows.

Yep, I need "Archers Anonymous"... and "Lathes Anonymous"... and "Backgammon Anonymous"... But having fun

Thank you for the info, very interesting news.

Well now... that's just dandy! Just when I thought I had everything I needed (and wanted) they go and offer this riser in a 21" and 23" model. Gee Whiz!

:^)

"Huh...Thanks Jim. All of my risers have the dovetail machined into the riser. Nothing adustable there. Like I mentioned mine all adust at the bushing. I didn't know there was adjustable dovetails!"

I remember a discussion of the Gillo risers where they mentioned that the lateral adjustments were redundant and they wouldn't have included them except the market required them. So they delivered the risers centered and you were just as well not to touch them.

I just received my 19" Lark from Alternative archery ups 3 day from England nice price and great service... beautiful riser.

If any folks drop by Houston area, send email- I would love to host demo. Archery is more fun with nice folks.

"Pre-order" status- no fixed delivery schedule yet. Once I get them and shoot a bit I will post impressions. Long term hope to do draw force curves, etc- but that might very well never happen, I keep getting more interesting projects.

I’m tempted to get a 23” version and put a bushing in it to shoot a springy rest, if it is cut past center enough.

Tell you what- when I get the bows I will see if I can measure the cut past center amount. I am a hobby machinist, have stuff to use that should work out.

What I am really curious about is the draw force curves, how they would vary from 17"-23" on otherwise similar model. To really "know" I think I would need to measure the angle of the limb pockets- and I dont think I have capability to do accurately enough. So- do what I can, just measure the force curves. Soo many projects, so little time.

bowyersince1981 have you received your 23" yet? I have been searching HARD for a wood riser in 23" or 25" and while ILF is not my first choice, this is the first non custom riser I have found! BUT, is it really available, or is it still 6 months out?

I have literally only found 3 custom bowyers who will make a 68" recurve and they are all out of the country which makes it a huge hassle, communication, laonguage barrier, and shipping costs, etc...

ThePerfectLine- Sorry for delayed answer to your query. The bows are not yet received. No email updates from Alternative Services on status, but I told them "you are selling bow at a great price, don't waste your time updating me on status- I will wait." Other folks have called and were told July.

For large list of large risers check out my posting as pipcount at https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3087762

I have a 21 and 25 riser from Border, and a KG Phoenix at 25"- all quite nice, but I suspect any wood riser decently made will shoot about the same at my skill level. If the 21 and 23" Larks I have on order shoot as I hope I am likely to reduce inventory, get consistent design and handle experience across my portfolio.

I put a set of 20# Bosen carbon/maple longbow limbs on my 17 (SAS) and 19" this weekend. Very pleasant shooting on 17, 19 opened up a bit- I think I was tired or arrows were too stiff. Aesthetically PERFECT- the carbon weave patterns in limbs were extraordinarily aligned in size, angle, finish, etc. Makes you wonder, right... same factory in China making both?

I have been posting most of my results on the Archerytalk forum on the lark. Suffice to say I am having plenty of fun, all is well. Mostly using the 23" riser, shooting the uukha VX+ extra long limbs with "super recurve" for a technically 70" bow that is only about as long as a 68" bow from tip to tip straight across. Very smooth, tons of fun. Have had quite a few folks give it a shot at the range, all seem pleased to date.

Haven't played around with the 21" as much, sold the one I had set up to a fellow that dropped in at our range! Second to be set up in future.

I like my 21” riser. Been shooting it last few times out. I did have a set of SF carbon/foam limbs on it but changed to TT carbon/foam. Also more #’s as I can’t get shooting the lower weight limbs. Eventually I will have to learn the sight picture. Can’t believe how quite the bow is with just a set of whiskers on the string.

I'm late to this Lark party, can someone suggest limbs to go with this riser. I'm buying from Alternative so if they had them that would really help. #50 @ 28"

Thanks

Alternatives has the R1 and R3 - samick discovery - limbs that are at a price hard to beat. You can find them in traditional section. I would buy mediums - 62" bow for 19" riser - #50@28". Will be #52 at max load.

PS If you decide for Samick Discovery limbs, you should buy 60in 50lbs since the 60" (bow amo) is based on the 17" riser.

Observation- regarding the limb lateral adjustment capability and what is "right" location:

On my 23", using the "Early Human Tuning Forks", I find the location of the dovetail is quite a bit displaced from the center of the pocket it is in, perhaps 30% to one side more than the other- 2-3mm. Per earlier thread commentary, the location I am using now seems to fit vs. the UUKHA limbs and removed what appeared to be twist, the bow shoots very quietly and seems quite "smooth".

I have not used lateral adjustment on other bows much, so this seems a bit unusual. An earlier 21" I set up I think was also offset quite a bit, used "eyeball" only on that one- not sure, but fellow who bought from me seemed surprised at the adjustment amount.

I remain exceptionally pleased with the bow's shooting and looks, but am very curious- are other shooters finding similar large offset of the lateral limb adjustment screws? If answer is NO... wonder what is up with me- Is it the bow, or "me"?

ttt

pipcount. Is it ipossible that the limb pockets weren't adjusted "at the factory?" I.e., they were just assembled, but not adjusted. Adjustment left to the buyer. Just a thought.

Since this got bumped recently, I will share an update on my Lark. In short, Lark was fine, the limbs were twisted. New limbs get LLA right down center of the pocket.

Sent bad limbs in for replacement, new limbs are straight down the centerline with essentially no LLA difference. Shoot great.

ONLY downside I have observed now is that LLA screws sometimes work loose- various ways to fix discussed in past.

Still love looks of Lark, and for folks seeking awesome ILF bow at a great price it rocks. I bought and set up one for a good friend this last year. Fantastic buy, fantastic bow.

I have the Firefinch, same riser from Lark. Love it! They also come in green! Put some Uuhka X100 and what a bow.

Another pic

TTT, anyone having issues with the riser besides the limb adjustment screws backing out? Reason I ask my 21” riser has what looks and feels like a crack in the shelf area. I realize the riser is made up of multiple pieces of wood and such so I am not really worried about it coming apart. But if I ever wanted to pass it on I couldn’t. I wonder if our dry climate has something to do with it? I have had the riser over a year so figure the warranty is up.

Here’s a picture. Looks like two different cracks? I thought at first just the finish but I can feel them with my finger nail.

M60Gunner- I shoot lightweight limbs, no issues of any sort observed on ~4-5 risers. I have even thinned out two 23" risers to get more centershot, both still going strong.

Patching that has worked for me on other risers (a Border and some vintage bows) is pretty simple- get the thinnest superglue you can find at the local hobby shop, drill tiniest little hole near base of cracks you can with your drills. Inject superglue deep inside and clamp up (waxpaper has protected my clamps well, sometimes I need spacers to fit ..) Let sit for a few days just to be sure.

Then keep adding a bit into the remaining crack until it is filled. This can take many repeated efforts, but at the end of day you are likely to end up with a well filled crack.

Then sand out the inevitable runs, put a coat of something over it to protect finish. I have not had luck with Tru Oil if any of the old finish is in place. Maybe someone could recommend a good finish. The original looks like a cellulose to me, and I purchased a bit to try but have not gotten around to it yet. Too many other bows, too little time.

You might find other ideas at http://www.vintagearchery.org/bow-restoration---repair.html

I will try the SG approach. I have some thin stuff on hand. Thanks for the tip on the finish, I would have used the Tru-Oil. Now that our woodshop is up and running I am thinking of using the milling machine to take off some material to make the riser more pasted center shot. Really nothing to lose.

Great. Tru Oil has worked on riser cutouts, adheres well to the wood as you would expect, then I wipe it off where it blends into the existing finish. Quick and easy.

I tried to simply overcoat one of the risers entirely... wanted it shinier. Did not work. Looking back I probably should have just gotten some of the car polish scratch remover and polished the existing finish. Would likely have been easier, faster, and would have worked as well.

When I said "many" on filling gap with SG, I really did mean "many," so be plan on patience and time. Each coat takes little time to set up. I just do dozens of iterations during a movie or something. On one riser sight hole filling job (dowelled first, just a tiny little divot on top I wanted to fill,) I think it took me maybe 20-30 iterations...

Best wishes

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