From: Toms
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Hi all. I was wondering if there are any shooting form flaws which cause a nock low arrow?
I'm shooting 3 under and keep getting a nock low bare shaft and paper tune.
My nock point is pretty high - 3/4 above center, and still the same flight pattern.
I'd like to re-evaluate my form before continuing to tune. Any input is welcome.
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From: fdp
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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As crass it sounds to some you can only tune as well as you can shoot. As long as bareshafts and fletched arrows group in the same spot let it go.
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From: DanaC
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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3 under or split?
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From: SB
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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I had two nocks fracture leading to dry fires with my old Zebra longbow. Lead to the demise of that bow. It developed cracks though the lams into the glass on the back,right above the arrow rest. That WAS a nice old bow. Switched nock brand and style after that.
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Toms, forget about paper. It's good for verification.
I'm not a big fan of three under, but either way two nocking points help.
Look at www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning
One of the problems with nock high is that if you have the nock too low the rear of the arrow hits the shelf and makes it look too high.
Look at the first pic (with arrows in the target) in the above link. This is the only way to tell if your too low. See bare shaft above the fletched with the nock of the bare shaft BELOW the point. IF you see that it's very rare and means you should move your nocking point up ONLY A FRACTION. Most likely (if your nock is too low) you'll see the point of the bare shaft below the nock, meaning it hit the rear of the shelf.
You're better off starting high and moving the bare shaft up in small amounts by moving the NP down in very small amounts. I don't like to say this because angle of the arrow in the target can be affected by what the target is made of, but if your grouping near the fletched shafts and the arrow is straight into the target, call it good.
Bowmania
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Oh, I forgot form flaws. Most form flaws affect l and r. Grip and string torque can affect up and down. Ask you coach if he thinks that's the problem. If your shooting the way he taught you it's unlikely.
Oh, what's that you say you don't have one. Well, I'd have to see you shoot. If you want to shorten the learning curve get one. I'm not trying to be wise, most here are not wise that is. Myself included. I've been at archery for 60 years and wasn't smart enough to get a coach until about 15 years ago. In high school, you had a coach for football, basketball, swimming, tennis, golf, track... Now you pick up a sport that's twice as complicated without a coach.
Bowmania
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From: Toms
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Thanks for the input.
I'm trying to use the winter to clean up my form as shooting outside isn't too realistic with the weather we have been getting. Shooting in the basement isn't the most fun but I'd rather spend the time getting everything correct so when it warms up my shooting is good.
I think I'll make a video to see if there are any obvious flaws. Bowmania - the idea of a coach is a good one and maybe something I will need to explore if I can't sort this out.
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From: Bernie P.
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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It could be how your hand pressure is on the handle.I would try 2 nock sets to eliminate that possibility.Some other considerations would be nock fit on the string.FWIW I was having the devil of a time tuning one of my bows.Turns out the tiller was off and the limbs were slightly out of alignment.Sent it back to the bowyer and got those issues resolved.Shoots real nice now.
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From: JFH
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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try 2 nock sets first. Sounds like your arrow may be sliding down on release then "bouncing" off your shelf. Common problem for 3 under. Easiest thing to check too.
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