From: Biathlonman
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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How do you all make full length painted shafts? I've got a dozen old stock cedars here that I was thinking of doing in baby blue rustoleum rattle can then coating with wipe on poly. Does that sound like it will work?
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From: fdp
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Yes. I just do either the nock or point taper and hang them up with clothes pins to spay them.
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From: Pa Steve
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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I think they would look really nice. My only concern would be a bale style target (possibly) wearing some of the finished paint off at the point end. I guess there's only way to find out. Are you going to first do a white undercoat?
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From: fdp
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Folks were shooting full length painted shafts 60 or more years ago, so there really isn't any issue.
Baby blue shows yp really well in the woods and fileds too. Nothing out there that color.
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From: Sunset Hill
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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I dip full length arrows using white Rustoleum enamel thinned to water consistency with paint thinner. Three coats adds about 25 grains, is glossy and durable. No need to overcoat with any clear and duco works well with it.
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From: Kelly
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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I do the same as Sunset Hill does. Have done white, yellow and orange.
I like blue and pink feathers because they stand out-not many things pink and blue in nature. Humm, might have to try robin egg blue color with pink/blue fletches and blue nocks.
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From: bigdog21
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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after they are finished use car wax and wax your arrows. they will not stick in targets. and remove easy will also help in protecting finish. you will even be surprised how much easier they slide across the shelf rest.
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From: SB
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Dip tube. Clear coat over the paint.
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From: woodsman
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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There are a lot of products you could use to dye shafts. I used leather dye from Tandy for years.
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From: Redheadtwo
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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I do the nock taper,glue the nocks on,put masking tape around the nock,then spray the paint on. If you want the colors to pop spray a dull white coat on first,let dry,use OOOO steel wool to rub the finish even. Spray another coat of white,lightly rubbing down again,then spray the colors.
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From: Jon Stewart
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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Make sure you sand them good as some paints will draw the grain out. I hang them by the point end before I taper them and spray them. I do taper the nock end first.
We used to get Bear arrows in by the gross painted full length. If I remember right the color of the arrow dictated the spine.
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From: Scoop
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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From: Scoop
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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When younger in ‘60s I made dozens of fully dipped black arrows with yellow fletching for my young wife and me. Three coats, thinned so they ran off like the water mentioned above was the key and then a dip of seal coating. As I remember everything used was Bohning products and we broke folks made the dip tubes out of aluminum tubing the same as we made for our fly rods. Things were kind of simple when you didn’t have much money and the coin of the realm was happiness.
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From: Andy Man
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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that leather dye from Tandy is great and can still see the grain but have to clear dip over it
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From: UK Woodman
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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I mostly always paint or use colour wood dye my shafts full length. White shows best and can take crestings and feather comb'os in any colour. I also like yellow and orange a lot. I like the idear of the blue, might try that myself. post some pics when done, Go for it.
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From: StickandString
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Date: 10-Feb-19 |
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I use Rustoleum spray paint for crowns and full length colored shafts. First cover with flat white and I usually do this in two thin coats. After white is thoroughly dry I use the colored spray paint. Again using two thin coats. Once the colored paint is thoroughly dry I use a spray on poly.
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From: Ironfist
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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Do any of you mark your arrows for grain orientation?. I would think fully painted shafts unless marked in some way could be less than safe. Maybe a nock index?
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From: KDdog
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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I'd would prime them first. Then paint them up.
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From: Scoop
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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You can nock taper and mark the nock index alignment with a pencil or pen on the taper if using a pair of needle nose pliers to held them during dipping, or mark the grain orientation on the end of the shaft if untapered and you are using a clothespin or metal paper clamp on the end to dip with. Just don’t dip over the mark on the end! Somebody else may have a better way.
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From: DanaC
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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Like Pa Steve says, the target will scuff the front. I'd paint the first 8-10 inches or so darker, so I could re-paint that as needed (purely for 'cosmetics'.)
Any way you do it, please post some pix so we can see how it turns out.
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From: Stealth2
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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I made some all white arrows using Rustoleum for the bottom halft and Bohning white for the upper 9". I sealed them first with min wax poly...they came out great.
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From: Recarga
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Date: 11-Feb-19 |
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My GPS 3D arrows:-)
I use Rust-oleum 2x over time they do get target burn.
To get the best look I do 3 very lightly coats with 000 steel wool between coats.
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From: N.Y. Yankee
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Date: 12-Feb-19 |
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Sand with 320 dry paper. Wipe well with DRY cloth. Spray a light coat of Krylon FLAT WHITE. Let dry to the touch. I hang my shafts with a clothespin on the point end. Do not buff. Spray 2- 3 coats (as you see fit) Krylon color coat, flat if you can get it, let dry to the touch. Spray 2 coats Krylon Crystal Clear. Let cure 48 hours in a warm room. It will eventually rub through but it will look good for quite a while. Fletch with Duco Cement.
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From: Nemophilist
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Date: 28-Feb-19 |
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Good thread. Recarga nice arrows.
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From: JayInOz
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Date: 28-Feb-19 |
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Stealth2 those look really sharp! What colour fletches? JayInOz
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From: Nemah
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Date: 28-Feb-19 |
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Dip them in thinned Polyurethane...twice. Steel wool between coats. Then dip them in thinned Rustoleum, twice. Done. No need to dip them in a clear coat.
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