| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Want to verify if this is red osier dogwood, can anyone tell me?
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| From: JusPassin
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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It does look like it.
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| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Any look a likes out there? I’m sure at least a couple?
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| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Sweet! I thought so but didn’t know it’d be growing by train tracks in Wisconsin. Found a whole bunch of it
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| From: PEARL DRUMS
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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You want the point end to be 3/8" round with the bark on. By the time it dries down and you peel it it will accept an 11/32 point nicely. And, it generally spines up enough to use them on 45-55# bows. Cut them at least 36" long, give yourself plenty of wiggle room. Also, bundle them up in groups of 8-12 with the ends opposing. I use jute twine to twist around the bundle.
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| From: PEARL DRUMS
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Give them at least a few months before you peel them. Plan on cutting 24 to get 12 that spine out and straighten nicely.
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| From: Shawn Rackley
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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I always love these kinds of threads. I don't have red osier growing here (North East ar) I am always interested in local stuff though. Was thinking about going and harvesting some river cane up the creek from me today.
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| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Is it ok to have thicker shoots and surface them down like I would normal woodies? Made a spine tester so can I use that to get shoot shafts the right weight? I only grabbed a few but might go back out today.
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| From: PEARL DRUMS
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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I wouldn't suggest changing the diameter too much. I will slightly to get the spine closer, but I wouldn't suggest taking a 32nd or 16th off the diameter. Its best to simply scrape the bark/cambium off, lightly sand smooth and use them. That's why I suggested cutting twice what you want in finished arrows.
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| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Can I ask why? Does it make for a weaker arrow?
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| From: Frisky
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Do a search here for red osier arrows, and you can get a lot of info. I always cut them to at least 42". That will give you more room to find the arrow in the shoot. I would not cut any others until the sap begins to flow in spring. That way, you can just peel the bark off with your fingernails and begin hand straightening. Absolutely no need for bundling if you do it this way.
Joe
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| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Hmmm ok thanks for the info, never worked with these. I got 12 shafts today, all have knots, and only a handfull are around 3/8’s
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| From: Frisky
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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You want them as close to finished diameter as possible. A little over 3/8th on the skinny end and less than 1/2" on the fat end. After bark removal, you'll have much less scraping to do.
Joe
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| From: MStyles
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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I believe George(Jawge)S. Shoots those.
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| From: Frisky
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Jawge shoots wild rose. We don't have it here.
Joe
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| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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I believe he shoots cane as well, not sure if river cane or what. I peeled the ones I have except for the last couple inches and spent some time heat straightening them over burner. I was impatient, will select only the best next time.
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| From: Whiteblackfoot
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Peeled the bark but left them pretty long, next time won’t strip early. 7 shafts hand straightened and ready to dry, 5 not as desirable shafts that are gonna sit until I need a distraction.
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| From: George Tsoukalas
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| Date: 31-Jan-19 |
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Shoots
http://traditionalarchery101.com/shoots.html
Jawge
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