From: doug
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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at your draw ,probably 2016.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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Just an idea, Lancaster sells shafts in singles. I would try a couple of each, 1916, 2016, and just for curiosity 2018. That long a draw + what I heard is a top performer of a bow you might need more spine. Only downside is the shipping of half doz shafts. But it might just save some frustration.
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From: Kent Alan
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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1916 for the 41#, 2016 for the 45#. God and Christ Bless
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From: goldentrout_one
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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Those suggested spines could work,but for a 41 lb bow the 2016 (10.6gr/inch) 31" arrow will be pretty heavy.... as an alternative, you could try a 2113 (9.3gr/inch), which is slightly stiffer than a 2016. Another option is a 2212 (8.8gr/inch), which is slightly stiffer than the 2114. Down side is, the thin wall will be less durable than the 2016, but on the positive note, you won't be shooting obese arrows going 148 fps.... just some alternatives....
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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2016 at 31" for both will work just fine. I can shoot 29" 2016 with 145 tips from my 42# at my draw on an old Black Hawk Scorpion, and also on my 45# Browning Wasp. I draw just short of 28" so you see the 2016 will fill the bill for you at 31".
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From: Ken Williams
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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In a 43# recurve I hunt with, my 2016’s are cut 30.5” long and I draw 29” I use 145 grain points on these arrows. Hope that helps.
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From: goldentrout_one
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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If you use a 2016, cut 31" with a 150 point and 3 4" feathers, looking at Stu Miller's spreadsheet, you'll have a 521 grain arrow. That's 12.7 grains per pound. Same specs, a 2114 will be 500 grains, a 2212 will be about 485 grains. I bet with those 2016 you'll be dropping below 170 fps.... not that this will be a horrible fate (most of my life my bows have been going around the mid 160s), but at least you should make an informed decision....
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From: camodave
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Date: 29-Jan-19 |
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Once more I repeat "the string is the thing". I draw the same as you but have no idea what spine might be needed with the given information. Took me about 5 years to sort out such things. Now I do it by instinct. No simple answers for complex questions.
DDave
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From: Linecutter
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Date: 30-Jan-19 |
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I agree with the 2016's. Start with full length and then work your way back for your bow. My Samick Journey I use full length 2016 with a 145gr point. The Limbs are 35#'s@28" and I draw 30, so I am right there around that 41# mark. Bow, Center Shot, Brace Height, String Material, and Release decides when tuning. I am thinking mine run right around 500grs. DANNY
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From: Andy Man
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Date: 20-Feb-19 |
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Lancaster has them
I use the Jazz for cheap like Stumping and 3-D
and the classics for my broad heads
The tributes are good cheep shafts but I like the glue on nocks so choose the Jazz
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From: Linecutter
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Date: 20-Feb-19 |
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If you go with the Jazz shafts which are purplish blue in color or they also have Liberty shafts that are black (both made by Easton and are XX75 alloy) you will need to buy the inserts and glue on nocks for these shafts. They also sell completed arrows in these. You can also go with (for inexpensive) black GameGetter shafts (I believe the 500 size is 2016's) which are XX75 alloy they come with the inserts and have the adjustable nock. These are your least expensive but good quality choices. I usually shoot the Jazz shafts. I don't care what they look like neither does the animal or the target. These are at lancasterarchery.com they have other aluminum shaft choices to for the spine you need. Also they sell 145gr points in 5/16 that will give a smooth point to shaft transition. DANNY
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From: Linecutter
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Date: 20-Feb-19 |
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or that maybe Tribute black shafts instead of Liberty. DANNY
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From: Rustyspike1
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Date: 20-Feb-19 |
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I use both the 1916 and the 2016. Aluminium seems to be very flexible. My bows range from 45@26 to 52@26. Recurves and long bows. My arrow length is 27.5 to 27.25, 3 fletch. You also can fiddle with the point weight and inserts. Would use a hot melt until you figure out the perfect combo.
I would use the 2016's at your draw. Your arrow is going to be at least 31. Better check the full uncut length.
Rich K.
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From: PeteA
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Date: 20-Feb-19 |
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I shoot 2016 - 29.5" draw is 26.5" 140gr heads out of my 46@28 Predator Hunter. Works well for me.
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From: camodave
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Date: 20-Feb-19 |
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No shortcuts here. Buy a number of options and bareshaft until you find what works. BTW I have a 30 inch draw as well and shoot aluminum arrows that are 300 spine (2317's) out of some of my bows. My go to arrows are 2219 Super Slams (340 spine).
DDave
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From: RymanCat
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Date: 20-Feb-19 |
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2016's but I don't favor the cutting business. I usually use 145 on the nose and shoot 40 to 55 that's a broad range I get on a 30 inch arrow.
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From: Rustyspike1
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Date: 26-Feb-19 |
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To cut these I use a Tube cutter. I guess its a plumber's tool. Works for me. Then I file the end flush. Bastard file to lazy to open my tackle box. But I think its a #5. Got it from Raptor Archery many years ago. He is very knowledgeable.
Rich K.
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From: Linecutter
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Date: 26-Feb-19 |
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I cut with a tubing cutter also, just slowly add pressure when using the cutting tool to keep from compressing the end to much. I don't do anything to my ends after cutting, some will twist the cut edge on sand paper to smooth to smooth it. That is the nice thing about aluminum they are easy to cut to length if you need to. I have used the mini one from Harbor Freight, but prefer the lager one. I have never worn a cutting wheel out in all the years cutting arrows but if you do, they make replacement cutting wheels. DANNY
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From: Live2hunt
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Date: 26-Feb-19 |
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I always take a rat tail file and clean the burr on the inside out after cutting.
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From: stikbow208
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Date: 26-Feb-19 |
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The Victory Archery Spine Calculator says .500 spine. 2016 spine is .530 and probably less at 31".
https://www.victoryarchery.com/arrow-guide/
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 26-Feb-19 |
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Spine is rated at a length...alloys and synthetics at 28" so that is what your 530 represents. For every inch longer you lessen static spine incrementally. Same if shorter than 28" it stiffens the static spine.
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From: BOBBO NJ
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Date: 26-Feb-19 |
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With your draw and 41# I would go 2115's. Get a hold of some and try them. You wont regret it.
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From: Rustyspike1
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Date: 27-Feb-19 |
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Here is the best thing about Aluminium arrows. Once they get beat up just soak them in acetone and remake them.
Rich K.
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From: RymanCat
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Date: 27-Feb-19 |
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2016 is a great arrow and you can go up or down in point weights if you have to adjust anything.
2018 i feel is a little heavy for the 41 pound but on the upper edge of the 45. You would need to try because otherwise its just talk.
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From: DanaC
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Date: 27-Feb-19 |
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Get a reloaders chamfer tool, use it *-lightly-* to remove burrs from aluminum shafts after cutting.
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From: Fletch
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Date: 02-Mar-19 |
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I use Easton Tribute xx75 2016 with 1&0 or 175 grain Saunders tips, shaft full length (32"?). I draw near 30". I use them on my 40#-ish @28" bows. Works fine.
I filed/sanded my Samick Jouney riser to allow arrow impact point to be dead on at 20 yards.
Those full length 2016 arrows work on my 41# Bear Polar ( 1962), my 40# 1959 Bear Kodiak Special, a 41# Al Kimery/Trad-Al hybrid long bow, my 35 and _0# Samick Journey and a 45#@30" Bodnik 64" Slick Stick.
May not be the best arrow for 50-60 yard competition, but combined with a 3-under draw, they have a low gap to 27-30 yards. They have served me well for 3d events. No Chrono, but they seem to be quick enough for my needs.
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