Ok guys after my failure with red oak I bought a Hickory board. My layout is pyramid style bend thru handle. im shooting for 45lb or so. The bow will be 68in long. If I take the limb thickness down to around 3/8 in will that put me in ballpark? Also for 68in bow how long should I make a Flemish string for it? Ant help appreciated.

What's your draw length?

Are you backing the board with anything?

String would be about 64.5” if the bow is 68ntn

68" pyramid stylle could be rigid handle and be about invincible,maybe add a riser block?

You cant build a wood bow with preconceived thickness'. If you are just trying to get some meat off it with power tools then take it to 5/8" thick, but first glue on a riser block, as Mike suggested. After that you tiller the thickness/weight off the bow as you work towards your draw length. Your string should be about 4" shorter than the bow is nock groove to nock groove. You want a brace height in the 7-7 3/8 range for that style bow.

How is the grain? Any knots? Straight grained and no knots is ideal. Jawge

I agree with Pearl Drums, but you can think about a ball park thickness. And 5/8" is a pretty good starting point.

I will say that 3/8" is too thin. You'd never make weight.

Ok thanks guys. My draw is a true 31in. The grain is really nice and straight and no knots. I would like to do a block riser but was told that for beginners bend thru handle was easier? I been watching a clay hayes video on board bow. Kinda copying his layout. I want to put a linen backing on it and bought a snake print to do that. if I do block riser how long should it be? All I got done right now is limbs toward knocks shaped tips are 1/2 in wide.

Bend thru bows aren't easier in my opinion. There is a very fine line between too much bending and not enough, too much and your teeth rattle out, not enough and it takes a ton of set. I would glue a riser block on and make a rigid handle bow. With a 31" draw you will want no less than 70" ntn. I'd skip the backing if the board is as good as you say. Its just dead weight and wont do anything positive for you. If you want skin prints, do that after you have shot the bow 100-150 times. Nothing sucks more than dressing up a bow that isn't proven only to have it break. I've done it once years ago and wont repeat it.

Ok so how long should riser block be? would 10in be to much? really appreciate your help here and would it be to much to put a little recurve on tips? If not which is best way to do that?

I would glue a 12" block on. Cut the fade angle on prior to glue up. It makes it easier to shape smoothly and not dig a hole with your rasp. I wouldn't mess with recurving the tips yet. Learn the basic straight bow and then consider other options.

Ok will do its pretty cold here in ohio and have no heat in my shop. so Ill glue iton and bring in house. leaving it set for 24 hours be enough? Also I have piece of red oak will that look good or should I use hickory? also I have titebond 2 is that good for this.

Ok will do its pretty cold here in ohio and have no heat in my shop. so Ill glue iton and bring in house. leaving it set for 24 hours be enough? Also I have piece of red oak will that look good or should I use hickory? also I have titebond 2 is that good for this.

Titebond is perfect for the job, but be sure to bring it in the house to dry/cure out. 24 hours is plenty of dry time and red oak will work just dandy, it will have a nice contrast in both grain and color. If you take your time and ask questions you will easily end up with a winner.

There's info on my site. You can rip your board to 1 3/8". It calls for a bend in the handle bow with no glue ons where the handle is the widest point. If you do not tiller tat 4 inch handle section the handle won't bend.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/boardbowbuildalong.html

Jawge

That is the handle will not bend much.

Good Luck papadeerhtr. I'm not going to overload you with advice. You've got enough already. Just gonna cheer you on a little.

Bjrogg

Thanks Bjrogg really enjoying this think may be hooked lol

Well been working on bow and have it floor tillered. would like to put backset in it. When should I do this before or after finished tiller? This bow seems to be turning out better than the red oak board I tried. Hickory seems much tougher.

Now is a good time... after floor tillering.

Thanks. Ive got 1.5 thick riser so how tall blocks should I use at tips to be safe but yet get good backset?

Working on a hickory board myself must you have backing in order to do Back set ?

hers 1 pic of bow trying to put more up hold on lol

heres a pic of my shelf

Like it Thanks for sharing.

Nice. How are you doing with the tiller? Can you show any pictures of your bend? We might be able to help.

Bjrogg

Tiller isn't perfect but not real far off. Trying to post another pic but keep getting a server error will keep trying.

One of my Hickory selfbows, 67"60#@28"....great shooter..

the photo above is my first couple shots course only 12yds but it shoots good and is quiet. thanks for all the help took awhile for someone to show me how to post pics lol. already started another!

very nice looking bow rattlesnake!

The brace pictures look great. Congratulations! Jawge

Congratulations. Nothing like letting that first arrow fly from a selfbow you made yourself. Bjrogg

thanks I think it turned out pretty good for my 2nd attempt. like to take a deer with it!

Awesome! You'll be hooked now. Enjoy you're crafted creation.

Not wanting to hijack this thread, but seeing other Hickory board bows has me wanting to add my 2 cents. I made this one for my wife. 32# - 1-1/2" at fades to 7/16" tips. 3/8" thickness right out of the fades carried to the tips. The limb taper dictated the tiller - had to shave here and there of course. I used Red Oak and an exotic knife scale for the riser and wrapped it with leather lace.

You can't beat Hickory and I think it's the best bet for new bowyers.

You are now infected papadeerhtr and look forward to more bows in your future - nice work!!!

This shows the limb taper

Nice bow barebo2 whats best way to attach leather lace to grip that's what I want to use on my next one?

I bought a spool of lace online - lots of color choices. First, I wrap it once over itself tightly to hold it in place just below the shelf and continue winding it while pulling it snug as far down the grip as I want.

This is done dry to make sure you have enough length - it take a lot more than you'd think to wrap a 4" grip.

After I get the length, I use super glue on the first 1" to insure a good bond. The glue I use is "E6000"- it is a clear glue that stays flexible. I put a small bead on just below where I tacked on the lace and use a popsicle stick to spread it evenly about an inch down and begin the wrap. Repeat until almost to the end and use super glue again on the last inch or so. You have to make sure you spread the glue thin and evenly.

While wrapping make sure you snug every wrap tight to the one above it. It's a bit tricky but makes a comfortable grip and I've done a lot of them and they hold up well.

Thanks sounds like good way of applying it.

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