I understand wood arrows should be setup with the running grain horizontal on the shelf and perpendicular to the riser. I have some arrows shafts that are too stiff and thinking about setting them up so they sit on the bow shelf with the grain running vertical so to weaken them.

I am thinking it may also cause more inconsistent performance. Anyone do this to weaken shaft spine?

Have you tried adding point weight, changing brace height and/or thinning your side plate?

Otherwise you'd have to re-check the spine of each shaft as you turn them, and I suspect they'd vary a lot.

That could be asking for trouble in the form of an arrow breaking when shot. Better off changing the point weight or sanding the shafts a little to weaken the spine.

Yep, I can go other routes to reduce spine. I was just wondering if anyone does the one I described.

I'm sure others have tried that, but it's not a safe option.

Actually the spine difference might not be As big as you’d think maaaaayybbee 2- 3lb. Just depends shaft to shaft. The only way you’d know is by putting it on the spine tester. And like others have stated and I absolutely agree. Is use a heavier point weight. Much better way. And you’re feather orientation won’t change assuming you aren’t going to re fletch.

Arrows are set up with these >>>>>>>>>>running toward your hand for safety so that should the arrow break on release it will break up and way from your hand.

I wouldn't change that. I'd go down in point weight.

Jawge

Chuck them into a drill and sand them down a little.

MP

My choice is buy the correct spine shafts. In less the shafts are culls to begin with the difference in spine by changing orientation will be very small. unless you have a spine tester, how would you know what you sanded them down too?

Bob

If they are bare shafts that you are making into arrows, try leaving them full length. That will reduce the dynamic spine, maybe enough to work in your bow.

Tom, can you tell us what bow you're shooting, and the 'gozintos' along with that...string type, length, etc? Maybe something you can do if not too far off. Otherwise, it's smart to just get the right spine versus taking a chance with breaking an arrow on the shot.

I was given a bunch of shafts for nothing that are generally a bit to stiff for my bows. That just got me thinking about the question if anyone does that as I described in the opening post. I am not stuck. there are many ways to handle them. I was just curious. :) flu flus are likely:) :)

Tom, I know a guy....hvac tech....that can taper them to help make them work for you. I'm not talking nock and point, I'm talking a ten inch or more taper on the tail end...and precise. You probably know Joe yourself. Just a thought.

Not a good idea. Sanding and or tapering is the best option other than new shafts. >>>----> ken

First time I shot wood over 20 years ago I didn't know squat about grain direction, set up or tuning wood arrows. I got a bunch of chundoo shafts - cheapest I could find - and made arrows cut to my draw length plus an inch. Won 2nd place at a local 3D shoot once with them but probably didn't shoot well enough overall to notice the difference. Today I'm still using shafts from that bunch but now the arrows are oriented correctly, marked for spine and weight, and only a few of those left made the cut. And I probably still don't shoot well enough to make a difference!

Krag:

Probably one of the main reasons you don't shoot well. The correct arrow is far more important than what your bow is.

Bob

If you are going to shoot wood you need to get a setup where you can chuck and arrow and take some spine off with sandpaper.

DDave

"The correct arrow is far more important than what your bow is. "

Gold.

Tom change your point weight or up your draw weight ; ) Good excuse to get new bow!

In my mind the only viable options are decreasing centershot, increasing point weight, or decreasing static spine. Perhaps a combination of those.

As for a spine tester I posted one here a few wekks ago that we put together at friends house to check spine in a situation like this that is as accurate as any out there and cost about $10.00 and 5 minutes to set up.

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