I am interested in trying a back quiver. I hunt on the ground only. No treestands. I don't like bow quivers, at all. I only take four arrows in when hunting, so i am wanting a soft leather back quiver, (small in diameter) i assume. I shoot full length 1916's. Any info on what one to buy is appreciated. Don't know if i will like back quivers, so not needing the top of the line, just yet. Thanks in advance.

You would want a 22" that collapses easily and conforms to your back. I would suggest the soft leather quiver from Howard Hill Archery do not let the full size mess with your head, that size makes them super easy to deal with when using four to six broadhead arrows with a blunt or judo tossed into the top area.

Right now if I needed a quiver I would check out the back quivers from Soap Creek. He has some in the classifieds

Yes, do yourself a favor and get a quality BQ with a Wide Mouth!

Soap Creek back quivers are very nice for the price. I just purchased one for my son who likes stump shooting with me. I use an original Howard Hill quiver that is pretty old and well used. My only bitch about the HH quiver is the dye used in the latigo leather used in this quiver. After all the years I have owned it near 50 and it was old when I bought it, it still leaches dye on a very hot day when using it.

Other than that it will outlast me. There is a technique you have to practice when using it and frankly I find now that with a bunch of weight training/martial arts I've done over the years I find it difficult to withdraw arrows from it. I have used it while hunting though when I was younger, way back in the 70's and 80's. Back then I used it pretty much exclusively, until the Cat Quiver came out.

For stump shooting the back quiver mentioned above is hard to beat. Just convenient to be able to carry more than a few judo arrows although even these can and often do get tangled up when pulling them out of the quiver. For purely hunting with a couple of judo points I use my Cat Quiver mostly. I've modified it a bit so it is easier to get on an off quickly when sitting and it attaches around most trees with little effort.

I am to old to climb up into trees now and just this fall got back into to do a little bow hunting with my longbows. So this year I figured I'd concentrate on my Hill quiver a good bit more. I like to stump sit now and do a bit of very very slow still hunting, and still I found myself removing my quiver when I sat down on logs and such. So there ya go. There is an art or skill one must develop when using a back quiver but it is fun to learn and practice. Soap Creek makes a very very good back quiver for the price imho. keepem sharp

Another vote for the Hill quiver.But I would suggest the stiffer version.Properly broken in they work better than soft BQ's IMO.

If you're only carrying a few arrows, a big quiver would be like using a wheel barrow for a shovel's worth of material. Yeah, they are nice if you like big quivers on your back, but you can get them in a smaller size. Google 'archery back quivers' and you will get many hits to look over.

I actually like smaller back quivers, but not 'small' quivers. Mine is a Wyandotte that is similar to the old 50's models and has a zipper pouch for extra strings, tabs, etc. It's 22" and has separator straps and you can use it in a canted angle across your back or straight up. To each their own and we are a different lot of folks here. If you can, handle a few and see what fits your style best.

Hmmmmmm... may be some folks have a hard time getting arrows out of their BQ because they have a small mouthed quiver and 32 inch net arrows,,,,,,,,,

Hmmm, my arrows are 29" to the END of point, and it is a standard size HH back quiver as far as I know. I am just old and heavily muscled across the chest and back and my arms. Just from working out for most of my adult life and I ran large sheet fed printing presses in the Kodak Res. Labs too for most of my work life and before that too in union shops and we winded all the sheet paper by hand. Oh yea shot really heavy Hill bows for a good 20 yrs too, most 80# plus. keepem sharp

Bump the quiver forward with your elbow or hand. If fitted correctly it will slide forward and you should have no problem catching the nock. If you can touch your shoulder you should be able to get your arrow if you bump it.

Yep I used my bow string to bump it up and still quite a pain for me to do so but I use it when stump shooting.

A back quiver made from a heavy but flexible leather is my favorite.

I make a lot of the Hill style quivers with American Bison!

This back quiver is slightly more narrow than the Hill style above. Look for it to be available at 3Rivers Archery real soon!

Want something to be proud of, go to Hidehandler's web site and look at his. Really fine ones in many styles from Hill style, his Sherwood, and his Classic to some complete fur ones too. Some of those with heavy veg tanned leathers come with fleece lining at the top and a harness system can be ordered for each as an extra. He makes some of the best, but because he does gun holsters and other items too, there is a wait for a custom quiver.

I once gave him my order over the phone and asked for a custom change and there was no problem. A little bit of a wait, but hey, his work is something else and he's a fine fellow to do business with.

Steve Catts (hidehandler) in West Virginia is who I'm going back to for all my leather items.

6-7oz distressed Water Buffalo

I have uses upholstery leather for several requests.

I have two quivers built by Nate Steen and he uses Bridle leather or harness leather. Great quivers!!

Another great soft leather back quiver,if you can find one,is a Mikes Archery Leather back quiver. I think he's not making any right now.

I built my own from a coupla deerhides that I’d had tanned.

Someone here turned me on to Weldwood cement, and I laminated a pair of hides (one split, one not) to come up with a nice weight. Third layer around the mouth of the quiver to keep it open.

It’s a TOOB with a plug in the bottom; not rocket science by any stretch!

.."we are a different lot of folks here" ,,, George Stout'. Yup! And I'll add, not just here,,plenty more that are not on the Wall.

longbow1 brings up a valid point by pointing out if you have muscle development to the point it hinders your motion...from working out with weights, martial arts, boxing etc.. Including injuries or just being out of shape will dictate what your range of motion is. I've trained in all those activities above and could not back then and cannot now 'comfortably' draw an arrow in the "Hill" style trying to draw an arrow off my shoulder (deltoid muscle) with the backquiver near horizontal...much easier and more natural for me to draw an arrow reaching back with the quiver being angled vertical. And yeah, I know all about bumping the bottom of the quiver to get arrows in reach,,,,thought I invented that until I heard about that little trick elsewhere lol.

Lotsa options out there. I've been making backquivers of various styles going back to the '80s...had a "Hill" style quiver I bought way back ,,,I'll just say it didn't measure up (sorry all you died in the wool Hill fans but I follow nobody) and knew I could make better,,,at least for me and my style.

Bentstick, I'll put up a pic of some "slender" quivers in the making....

A few of some not finished. The two on the left are made slimmer. I've had requests from guys who want a slimmer version that mostly hunt from treestands, pack 3-6 arrows and want a lightweight, more compact quiver... basically just a vessel for their arrows til they hang it on the tree...not so much for wearing while stillhunting. I'm gonna treat myself to one of them just for that purpose. :)

A few of some not finished. The two on the left are made slimmer. I've had requests from guys who want a slimmer version that mostly hunt from treestands, pack 3-6 arrows and want a lightweight, more compact quiver... basically just a vessel for their arrows til they hang it on the tree...not so much for wearing while stillhunting. I'm gonna treat myself to one of them just for that purpose. :)

Oops...sorry for double. This one from a year ago or so. I use oil and waxed tanned leather that has the right weight and temper (stiffness)... quality leather made for the outdoor elements...low maintenance.

I am pretty sure that Santa is bringing me one like Oklaleatherman posted above. The one more narrow.

i ran large 5 unit Heidelberg sheet feeds. Handling heavy enameled paper 10 to12 hours a day can beat the crap out one's back and hands. You may prefer a harder quiver, but getting them broke in to custom fit to your back takes in bit of dedication, oil, sweat and old shirts. I am also broad across the back, I quite often need to move the shoulder strap to get them to put the arrows where I can get to them. I find that Neats oil and the back window of a car on a hot summer day to warm it up then put it on and go for a drive, will get it to conform to the back. The larger size allows for the ease of getting arrows into the quiver. Personally I don't like having the arrow any longer than i need, for two reasons. 1. They are easier to handle and tune for me, extra length causes more diverse reactions from longbows. 2. Shorter arrows have less arrow length hanging out of the quiver, which is always a plus when hunting on the move. A former carbon full-length shooter did his very best to snag every branch everywhere he went with those full length carbons with 3" broad heads extending from them. He now shoots as short as possible woods with much less branch snagging and more varied game killed.

This is a soft leather quiver that works for me. When I have to bend to get an arrow, the rest of them stay put.

Some nice quivers above.

Here's one which is no longer made. It's a Shriver, called the "Whitetail" model. I believe he said it was crafted of bison leather with a stainless steel rod running the length for support. It's the prettiest thing I've ever seen. Last I heard from him, he would craft one, but super expensive.

MStyles... Any chance you could post more pics of your quiver? Top and bottom ends, plus where the strap attaches? I'm trying to decide on a design for a BQ to make for myself and I really like yours. Thanks.

I am enjoying looking at this topic. I have always wanted to know - how do you keep broadheads from scratching each other, rubbing blades on each other, and from slicing the quiver?

Very nice quivers, guys.

My hunting quiver,,,Howard Hill

A well made, fitted and broken in quiver will collapse around the shafts and keep them from moving. IN this picture I have a loaded quiver of field points and I can turn it upside down without them falling out. They don;t move much. The thick leather in the bottom of the quiver is touch stuff and I have never had a BH poke through...some have a few layers to protect the bottom.

I prefer the thicker stiffer leather ones and break them in so they are flexible. The heavy leather helps hold the arrows better IMO.

I love me a BQ thread...need some more pictures.

BTW Nate Steen makes one heck of a Hill style quiver. Not the cheapest but it will literally last a lifetime.

I really like that one Mountain Man.

White Falcon made a Lakota style for and his leather and skill is quality...

Years to break it in right

My Nate Steen back quiver.

One that I made several years ago, along with my Sunset Hill.

The stiffer leather takes longer to wear in but that’s the only way to do it

Even fine stiched

My latest Sunset is Harness leather. Nate makes a great product...had to have another!

Mine is crafted from the harness leather too. I thought that was all he used for some reason. So, how many do you have now, five?

This is a nice one from the other thread. It belongs to trad47. I like it a lot.

No, I sold a few. I have a HHA one that holds extra arrows in my basement, the 2 Sunsets (new one for practice and the hunter one with a couple extra laces and straps etc. as in the above pics.

I have another question that may seem stupid, Do you have a scraping sound of arrows when pulling an arrow out? With the arrows laying on top of each other, i can see, hearing the broadhead scraping the shafts when pulling out an arrow.

Only if you grab one at the bottom of the stack. The only real sound I get is the tip of the BH rubbing against the leather a little.

Does your natural feather ever rub on anything and make a sound...why not use plastic? Don't overthink this stuff. gnat farts.

One i recently finished.

My John Schulz heavy latigo quiver. Bought in 1977 for $99. Still bowhunt with this quiver 99% of the time. Started using a back quiver in 1969 and this style is along with the Hill style are the best I found.

Sorry, just trying to get as much info as possible about them before i buy one.

I bought one from HHA and is my main now when I go out with my longbows. I had questions and all of them were put to rest by gentlemen like two4looking, Sunset Hill, Mountain Man, George D Stout and many others on different topics and forums. Things I gathered based on my experience: - to be organized when you put the arrows (especially with broadheads) in the quiver aka avoid having arrows tangled - I "educated" myself when I use broadheads that my first arrow out of quiver is the last arrow who got in. For field points I am doing the same, but if I sometimes don't is no big deal.

This is mine

Another one I finished up.

WOW! Renegade. That's a work of Art. NICE!

Here's mine with "Blondie". Made by a lady in R.I. back in the early 80's if I remember correctly.

One I did sometime ago.

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