Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Sharpening Deficient Disorder

Messages posted to thread:
semostickbow 05-Dec-18
Thumper 05-Dec-18
al snow 05-Dec-18
Bowguy 06-Dec-18
semostickbow 06-Dec-18
The Lost Mohican 06-Dec-18
Rick 3 06-Dec-18
timex 06-Dec-18
Gray Goose Shaft 06-Dec-18
Jim 06-Dec-18
George D. Stout 06-Dec-18
Dan In MI 06-Dec-18
Gray Goose Shaft 06-Dec-18
Jarhead 06-Dec-18
oscar11 06-Dec-18
Linecutter 06-Dec-18
George Tsoukalas 06-Dec-18
twostrings 07-Dec-18
semostickbow 07-Dec-18
tradmt 07-Dec-18
MStyles 07-Dec-18
MStyles 07-Dec-18
cubdrvr 07-Dec-18
From: semostickbow
Date: 05-Dec-18




I’ve got a Lil Shaver, RADA and Accusharp and put decent edges on heads for years. Bought some Silver Flame 2nds and thought I’d try my hand at hand sharpening on stones and ultra fine paper. I did get a hair popping edge w the Lil Shaver the first time. Missed a coyote and the head needed touched up, so I tried the other way. Epic fail. So, I put it back on the Lil Shaver after figuring out I suck at the other method. Apparently I changed the bevel and now can’t get it sharp at all. Do I now have a dedicated practice head, or can I get that bevel back? Thanks!

From: Thumper
Date: 05-Dec-18




Stainless steel and a steep bevel is a recipe for hard to sharpen IMO.

Sometimes if I get too far off track when sharpening, a trip to a bench grinder and a light pass with a steady hand gets you back at least to a fresh start and a defined burr. From that point, a file and a magic marker on the edge will you show you where you're headed.

But I'm not sharpening 100 dollar heads, so this probably sounds like crazy talk, and I understand.

But to be fair, a RADA or Accusharp can be pretty dang brutal as far as removing metal and altering the bevel.

Hope you get em straightened out, just stick with it.

From: al snow
Date: 05-Dec-18




I sharpen dull broadheads with a file and finish with a carborundum stone. They will take hair off of a frog. It's all about angle and pressure. Angle stays the same throughout, pressure diminishes as you go. Keep your stone clean and lightly oiled. You can't get an edge sharper than that, and that includes knives.

From: Bowguy Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 06-Dec-18




I agree w al snow except I use a diamond stone and water no oil. Any metal can be sharpened it just takes a practiced hand. You need to repeat the bevel whatever it is or regrind it if you wanted to. Anything besides a stone or a file on some to me isn’t what I do. There’s nothing you can’t do w em

From: semostickbow
Date: 06-Dec-18




Is it because of the concave blade that I’m having a hard time?

From: The Lost Mohican
Date: 06-Dec-18




Concave is certainly challenging for me

From: Rick 3
Date: 06-Dec-18




Semostickbow,

Unfortunately I do not think that sharpening is a job all of us can do. It is definitely an art in itself. I will practice on cheap broadheads, etc. until I get really good but I will go to gunshows or outdoor shows and find a person there selling knives who is really good at sharpening. Then I get his # and take my knives or other items to him for sharpening. I can get an edge to stay sharp but I have always had a problem getting them back.

From: timex
Date: 06-Dec-18




iv always had a knack for sharpening things & simply put it's just an understanding of angles & the proper angle for the given blade thickness and also the burr get a good even burr then remove it. in your case perhaps a lanski with the diamond hones would be best

From: Gray Goose Shaft
Date: 06-Dec-18

Gray Goose Shaft's embedded Photo



From left to right, here is the AccuSharp, Lil Shaver, and the Hollow Ground Sharpener.

From: Jim Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 06-Dec-18




I still think your best option is a Rada.

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 06-Dec-18




I agree with al snow, I use a Nicholson Mill Bastard and a stone to finish and get my two blades plenty sharp. Angle and pressure is the thing. We learned the way to do it from ol' Papa Bear. Patience is a good quality for folks who seem to not be able to get it. Took me a few times to learn but it's worked well now for over three decades. I shoot Bear and Ace mostly so I don't know anything about the 'super heads' that are made nowadays.

From: Dan In MI
Date: 06-Dec-18




My experience with the sharpening challenged comes in two places.

1) angle - most people understand this. It needs to be the same every stroke. Jigs and other tools usually negate this as an issue.

2) Pressure - Once you have the angle set you are NOT trying to hog off metal. This is where people mess up. They keep trying to remove steel. As your grit gets finer you pressure needs to go down. At the end the pressure is purely the weight of the blade.

Example with meaningless numbers. File 20 PSI, coarse stone 10 PSI, medium stone 5 PSI, fine stone 1 PSI, Ultra fine stone 1/2PSI.

From: Gray Goose Shaft
Date: 06-Dec-18

Gray Goose Shaft's embedded Photo



Here are the KME Broadhead sharpener and the WorkSharp.

From: Jarhead
Date: 06-Dec-18




File... belt... shave...

From: oscar11
Date: 06-Dec-18




I think the easiest way to go is what George suggested. Only 2 things you really need to do. 1) set a proper bevel, use the file for that. 2)refine the edge, use a stone(s) for that. If the bevel isn't set correctly you'll never really get it sharp. I'm a straight razor user and have a small fortune invested in razors and stones. This fall I took a 2 blade Journeyman broadhead and for the heck of it decided to run it through the same progression I use on my razors which means I took it to a 12,000 grit stone then stropped it and shaved with it. I'm not going to lie to you I can't get a concave blade sharp (Hill or Simmons). Convex and straight no problem. You develop touch(and you'll need a bit of that) with experience. Good luck. In the mean time I have another long winter to work on some Simmons.

From: Linecutter
Date: 06-Dec-18




You can get the bevel back using the Lil Shaver. The Lil Sharpener has guides that maintain the bevel. When you use it, do a few strokes then check the edge. If it looks like your are removing metal above the edge, but not to the edge, you are reshaping the bevel to the correct angle for the Lil Sharpener. Keep working at it till the bevel is "all the way" to the edge on both sides. If you only get the bevel to the edge on one side, it will not hold that edge well. The edge will roll to the side where the bevel fall short of the edge. Use light pressure when using the Lil Shaver. That file will remove metal in a hurry. DANNY

From: George Tsoukalas
Date: 06-Dec-18




Patience.

Right now I am sharpening a little neck knife I am making someone for a gift. It started with some stainless steel.

After cutting and grinding, i used an 8" mill bastard file.

Now I'm using a med. stone.

Jawge

From: twostrings
Date: 07-Dec-18




For all those who fear the file and cannot master the stone, as you arrange your little wheels and adjust your jigs and belts hear the small, sly voice inside you that tells you that you are not a man.

From: semostickbow
Date: 07-Dec-18




Got the bevel back with the file, took forever! Thanks for the comments, especially the last one! ??

From: tradmt
Date: 07-Dec-18




twostrings,....that’s funny! Lol

From: MStyles
Date: 07-Dec-18




Sharpening stainless steel (for the edge I want) has always been uphill for me.

From: MStyles
Date: 07-Dec-18




twostrings - Now that is funny!!!

From: cubdrvr
Date: 07-Dec-18




My sharpening life improved immensely when I bought the paper wheel for bench grinder. Between it and RADA I’m finally confident in my sharpening abilities.

Can still put a decent edge on in the field if necessary with a small diamond steel.





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