Need some help guys. I got all the materials now I think to make my board bow. !st question is instead of rawhide backing can I use linen and if so what do you guys recommend? 2nd question can I put a built up riser handle on this bow? you know sorta like I see on a fiberglass bow? What can I use for tiller string or do I need to buy one. Im sure there will be more question soon haha.

Yes, you can use linen.

Yes, you can glue on a handle. But, for a first timer tillering a bend in the handle bow is a lot easier. No glued on handle recommended.

On my site you will find a red oak board bow build along. You can modify the width to 1 3/8" wide. If you tiller well a 45# bow is possible. The handle should remain full width. Anyway, check my site.

Pay attention to the grain orientation on your board. Straight grained stock is best.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/archer.html

Jawge

Jawge answered most of your questions but you also asked about a tillering string. You can use about anything strong enough, I use para cord for a long tillering string until I brace the bow.

George and sailor thanks for response. the reason I would like a bigger riser is would like to have a shelf for arrow. The board I got is red oak and grain runs pretty straight the whole length of 8 ft board. What do recommend as far as linen goes and what type glue. Also I am shooting for 68in bow 45lb. I assume a b50 string is what would be best.

Tite Bond 2 or 3 for the glue.B50 or B55 for the string.As far as backing with linen it adds little to no strength to the bows back.It is applied to protect against splinter lift. Use what you have.Proper tiller is the secret to a good self bow.A tiller scraper will help.Cut a piece of 2 by3 inch piece of straight flat wood. I use a piece of furring strip.Drill a whole in the middle and screw a screw through the hole until the point is sticking out a little.After floor tiller when you put it on the tillering stick,and make the bow arc ,run the scraper along the belly of the bow. It will scratch the wood were the wood should be removed.Pull the limbs 30 times after each scratching ,and repeat process.

Some guys buy old silk ties in thrift shops and use that as silk backing. They usually use titebond glue.

If you want a shelf you can build it out of the handle, if you want to cut a window then you need to glue up a handle.

Generally, my selfbows perform best with fast flite type string materials.

George's website will have all the info you'll need.

Thanks Salvador I just went to his website very imformative. lots of options now just gotta make decisions. George used burlap in one of his teachings. Should be fun I just got to not hurry and take my time.

Thanks Salvador I just went to his website very imformative. lots of options now just gotta make decisions. George used burlap in one of his teachings. Should be fun I just got to not hurry and take my time.

Look at the Clay Hayes board bow videos for free on you.tube. There are four of them in total. They will show you most everything you need to know to get a bow built right.

He also has a soft cover book called Traditional Bowyer's Handbook which is excellent as well. SD

Thanks I have watched the videos and own the book. Wanted to ask tho is a linen backing as good as rawhide? Do I need backing I Looked at Georges page and didn't look like he used backing. Hoping to start bow this week kind of excited about this!

Papa, you don't necessarily need a bow backing for a board bow. It kind of depends on the grain. If is is straight grained tip to tip that's perfect.

However, I tell beginners to back their first few efforts...board or log.

No, rawhide is the strongest in my view...then linen...then silk or burlap.

Jawge

thanks George not sure how to post pics but will keep you up to date on progress thanks for your responses!

thanks George not sure how to post pics but will keep you up to date on progress thanks for your responses!

Ok, papa. Have fun. Jawge

Sal, correction: OLD guys use old ties to back bows ;-)

Anyway, my daughters used to give me old dresses for backing and I'd wrap the seams with thread to disguise them. Jawge

I was just watching Clay Hayes board bow videos, then I found this thread. Great resources. I will have to start accumulating the tools necessary. Mark it would be neat to see your progress if willing to post. Good Luck!

Jack

like to cant seem to be smart enough to post pics lol

Couple more questions, 1 can I put backing on the bow after tillering? 2 where Im working on bow is un heated will the titebond glue still set up as it should? Also ive decided on linen backing will any cloth material work or does it have to be linen.

Yes you can put the backing on the bow after tilering but it is better to put it on early to protect your bow during the tillering process.

Any tight weave material will work, cotton denim, silk ties etc.

If I back, I do so after long string tillering and before stringing with the short string. Jawge

thanks for answers guys nice of you to help appreciate it!

X2 on the parachord for a tillering string. That 550 is great stuff. Very strong, and made in America.

Well been working on bow got it roughed out but made a mistake and took to deep a cut on limb close to handle. Need to get a good draw knife the one I have isn't good at all. Can you guys recommend a good brand and size. going to go ahead and finish bow out just for experience but pretty sure it will break at cut. Been interesting and fun so far except for dumb mistake lol

Well been working on bow got it roughed out but made a mistake and took to deep a cut on limb close to handle. Need to get a good draw knife the one I have isn't good at all. Can you guys recommend a good brand and size. going to go ahead and finish bow out just for experience but pretty sure it will break at cut. Been interesting and fun so far except for dumb mistake lol

I inherited mine from my dad. I nought one at roadside in VT once. Check the flea markets, etc. Here's mine.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/osage.html

The top one is a draw knife.

In the middle you can see cooper's tools which were bought new.

In the bottom is my push knife which I also use as a scraper.

Jawge

thanks will do how wide is your draw knife and would a spokeshave be useful

Concur with elderly OCR, rasps seem work better on board bows when you're starting out.

I've had the horse shoe rasps with aggressive teeth on both sides and some have aggressive teeth on one side and less aggressive teeth on the other. Farm supply stores and some hardware stores carry them. Some folks recommend Horse Shoe Rasps, others Nicholson rasps.

The Nicholson rasps from the hardware stores are pretty darn aggressive and are easier (for me that is) to control than the horseshoe rasps. The other Nicholson rasps you'll likely end of purchasing are numbered 49 and 50. These usually are from the wood working supply stores, usually mail order.

I picked up my little 4 in 1 rasp as part of a cigar box full of old tools at a garage sale. I dug through it and found a pristive Keen Kutter 4 in 1 rasp at the bottom. Bought the cigar box for a couple of bucks, pocketed the rasp, and returned the cigar box with the rest of tools back to the folks for resale.

Good luck on the board bow and we all bet you can't just make one.

Im already planning next one learning by mistakes. nothing to drastic but ill do better next one lol. this is a lot of fun. can see it can be very addictive.

Good point. When using a draw knife on a bow you have to be sure it does not dig in. If it does then turn around and use the it the other way. Jawge

Thanks for tip on drawknife. Can I by an osage board? Not sure if anyone makes those.

Well guys Ive been working on my bow and its really turning out pretty good. I got it tillered now and got the handle pretty much sanded to fit my hand. Ive learned some things not to do on next one lol. Im going to figure out how to post pics I hope. Thanks for all the help really appreciate it.

Hey guys I shot my board bow tonite. Shot 2 arrows then it broke.Oh well Im going to try again learned a lot and had lots fun! Thanks again for the help!

Don't give up... The satisfaction of building a serviceable bow is well worth the effort.

Keep at it, Papa. Jawge

Well I went out hunting this morn no deer sighted but found a nice straight hickory about 4in dia. only had 1 limb coming out in the 7ft piece I cut. Gonna split it today and set It off to dry. going to buy another board tho.

I am sure this was mentioned, but on a board bow I draw the outline of what I want and cut it out with a bandsaw or jigsaw then use a wood rasp and cabinet scraper to finish shape it and start tillering, just another way.

I agree with the majority that a draw knife doesn't work well on a board, like you found, it can dig in real easy. Also turn the draw knife upside down with the blade bevel towards the wood, you can control it better.

Now I am a beginner and you have experts here so if my advice contradicts anyone, go with their advice.

Good luck and go slow, better to take three months on a bow than have to do it over.

Yes I learned a lot on that first bow. Draw knife didn't do well on board for sure. did most all with a rasp and plane. Thanks for advise I like listening to all you never know when that tip comes in that changes things for the better.

Here is some info on sapling bows though a 4" tree may not really be a sapling.

Jawge

http://traditionalarchery101.com/saplingbow.html

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