Last evening I was removing eight bullet points on some used Jazz aluminum 1816's for my grandson. Something I've done a lot of over the years. It only took a little bit of heat and they pulled right out. Now the caution part 3 of them had liquid in them that ignited from the torch and burned for a couple of seconds. Fortunately I was doing this on a metal tray and it caused no damage, but could of been very serious. But still a first in 50 years. Bought the shafts used at a bow shoot this summer.

Thanks for the heads up Hawkeye!!,

I might add another caution. When buying used carbon shafts\arrows the inserts\points might be installed with epoxy or super glue...I’ve carefull removed a ton of these with success but just about when the epoxy reaches the temp. That you can pull the insert a cloud of vapor rises and can cause severe eye irritation not to mention inhaling these vapors.

I started running a fan to blow this vapor away from me when heating these inserts.

Guessing the "liquid" was melted excess glue that caught fire? Flaming liquids can cause lots of problems. Glad no issues occurred.

-Bones

As easy as the points removed I'm not sure what it was. Didn't act like the hot melt glues that I've used in the past and diffently wasn't epoxy.

Hot melt will flame up if you get it hot enough.

MP

Good ideas about the point removal. Fan to blow away the vapors and maybe even eye protection?? BE SAFE!

When i was a fireman i saw a lot of incidents of fires caused by flammable liquids and such, many glues give of toxic gases when heated to excess. As for using a fan if you are not venting the fumes outside you are just diluting them in the air captured within your house. Sandy

While fitting the bullet points back into the cut shafts I found three points that was under sized. Maybe a 1513 or something. What ignited must have been what was used to shim them. They all passed the spin test before cutting them.

Thanks for the heads-up, Jeff. You know I use mostly second-hand alums, so this info will be kept in my noggin for future buys and arrow preps.

I do know that I've found plenty of undersized glue-ins on many shafts, with, I guess, simply excess glue being used to stabilize the point.

Hold on to those small points. They may fit those alums Harry uses, or some of the oddballs I have here that could be turned into good arrows for him....

I recently aquired some used X7 Eclipse arrows that I used a heat gun to remove some mismatched tips. I have a dozen points coming and a Bohning glue stick. I've never used hot glue before... Wouldn't a heat gun be safer than a torch ? And easier on the aluminum shaft ? Thanks for your advice , gunr

Never tried the heat gun, good question. Using some sort of tray or plate will catch the glue drips instead of marring the bench surface. It's also easy to drop a hot point.

Harry the points are going back into the same shafts. They were way to long. He sure had some nice shots at SS.

Never tried the heat gun, good question. Using some sort of tray or plate will catch the glue drips instead of marring the bench surface. It's also easy to drop a hot point.

Harry the points are going back into the same shafts. They were way to long. He sure had some nice shots at SS.

I used to use a torch but felt the flame was far too hot, so had a high skin burn potential and was hard on the finish of the arrows and the really hot flame sometimes burned the glue rather than melt it.

I bought an alcohol lamp...plenty of heat to melt anything without it burning, does not affect arrow finish and smaller flame so safer and easier to use.

I fill it with methyl hydrate. Bought it online for less than $10.

I am another alcohol lamp user. Mine’s really old now. I used a candle for years as well. We were cautioned years ago about how a hot propane torch can overheat some aluminum alloys. I use Denatured alcohol in my lamp, I use it for cleaning up when Acetone isn’t necessary. Get wicks from 3 Rivers.

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