This is a hickory board bow I made years ago. Killed a doe with it and semi retired it. I never had it bending very good out of the fades so recently took the rasp to it. Definitely sweeter draw now.

This is a 60 inch ntn 2”to mid limb, tapering to 5/8. Wondering if I can improve performance much by toasting the belly at this stage.

The tiler looks great right now. I have heat tempered bows that were shot many times over. Some held most of what I added and some not as much. I guess the real question is this, would it be okay if it doesn't work out and by the time you correct the tiller it lost draw weight? Making another may be a better option. That being said, Id temper and see what happens. I've always enjoyed going outside the box. Its where I learn the most.

I think Pearl gave great advice

If it seems to be shooting very well, I would be leery about changing things? Your choice.

My next attempt will be a chokecherry (probably rawhide backed) 60-65”. It’s only about 3” diameter so I’m thinking to get the 50# bow I’ll be trying for I’ll save the belly treatment for it.

I don’t have a chrony so any changes would be subjective anyway.

Do have a fair amount of effort in this one and it is shooting sweeter than when I first hunted it. Maybe I’ll save as is and give it to a grandson in a few years when he works up to it.

I’ll bring this back when I get close as I’m sure I’ll have questions.

If your handle/grip allows you to do it, I would flip the bow top to bottom and see how it shoots and what the tiller looks like. I have found out when the tiller looks perfect on the tree and it looks a little strong on the bottom limb when pulled by hand. That's why I do the last 2 or 3" of tillering from the hand. DBar

By the way ….heat treating hickory never hurts. DBar

I should have said above "strong" on the "upper" limb.Sorry DBar

Yup I shot it for quite awhile after I first built it and ended up flipping as tiller changed. Bottom is stronger and bow shoots sweet.

I’m happy with everything except the amount of set, which was undoubtedly going to happen with a bow that short and a novice building it. Wasn’t my first but close.

And yes my handle/grips always allow flipping. My previous attempt to this one(sister from same board) had a shelf. Shot it a lot. Was going to be my elk bow. Was out stumping one day and she blew at the cut in shelf. Decided right then I’d never cut one in again. And it makes flipping possible if needed.

You really need to try building a bow from a stave, with cutting in a shelf. really makes a nice shooting selfbow. DBar

Someday lol. Everything from here on out will be ambidextrous. I just cut small pieces of deer antler and glue on and cover with something quiet. Works fine.

Then bare shaft your arrows and you will be fine.... If you dont your most likely be shooting stift spine shafts. DBar

Pearl is right. I just fixed an American hornbeam bow that had to much set to suit me.I put it back on a reflex deflex form, and oiled the belly, and with a heat gun , heated and clamped back down on the form.The bow turned out straight, no set ,and no reflex.Shoots nice. American Hornbeam likes heat similar to Elm.Hickory may not work as well ,but you should get some improvement.JMO.

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