Anyone else tried this or variations of it?

My last several batches of arrows I've sealed and finished using Watco Danish oil. I use a PVC pipe tube (1 12" or 2") with a permanent cap on one end and a screw- on cap in a female adapter on the other (a clean-out cap, for you plumbers). Put the shafts in the tube, add the Danish oil and screw the cap on. Depending on how much Danish oil you use, the arrows can be totally submerged, or if you use less or don't have enough Danish oil, you can just roll/turn the tube a few times to distribute the oil. I bought a gallon of Danish oil and filled the tube pretty full. I left the shafts in the oil for about 48 hours, then took them out, wiped dry, and let them air-dry in the garage. I weighed a shaft or two every day, and when they quit losing weight, I figured they were pretty dry. (they still weighed about 40 grains per shaft heavier than before the oil. Some I have just then polished with bronze wool and fletched. Some (my target/practice arrows) I've sprayed a couple of coats of Minwax clear satin poly on. Have not had any problems with feathers coming off with either method, using Duco for fletching cement. Your thoughts and experiences?

Does this have any effect on spine or durability?

MP

I have used it. It's a great finish because it does not form a thick film. Not sure which version you have but there is watco teak oil which is just danish oil for the exterior. I used this on ash arrows which was cool because the pores picked up dirt that added to the look of them. This one is now a retired plant stake.

Danish Oil, Tung Oil, Cedar Oil, French Polish, even used motor oil, they all work well.

I do the same thing with Watco Teake oil. Mine turned out orangeish. The only issue I have had is at first I had a little trouble getting the points to stay on the shaft. They would pull off in the target much too often. I remedied this by lighting the tapered point end on fire for 5 or 10 seconds and then rough it up with some coarse grit sandpaper before gluing on. I haven't had a poinr pull off since.

I have done several dozen in the past and lost a few in my yard. A few years later found them during the winter when grass died off and had a rusty field point and feathers were about gone but the shaft being cedar and soaked for a few days with oil looked good as new.I also used Duco but left the oil on as the finish to keep the dull or flat look.

I've used tung oil but wiped on and lightly sanded between coats. Never tried soaking.

I like Pure Tung Oil from the Milkpaint Co. Reason I went to an oil is “target junk” doesn’t seem to stick the arrows like some other finishes.

The one thing with soaking cedar in the Watco oil is that they don't all soak the same, varied weights. I do like it as a finish, but it takes patience, warm sunshine and a breeze, and maybe about two or three days between coats. The finish has about as good of target wear as any other. If the shafts start getting target burn, a bit of a Watco wipe down will bring them right back. Hang those rags out in a good breeze to dry.

Thanks for the comments. I'm liking this method and learned a few new twists from you all.

Not to throw a wrench into the thread, but l would suggest you dip shafts using Daly’s PROFIN. You’ll probably never use anything else again. It dips and drains off quickly, almost like water, and can be redipped shortly thereafter. Several coats and you have a beautiful and durable finish.

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