Im thinking about getting a 40 pound black hunter LB just curious on what arrow spine would be recommended?

I draw 28.5

looking at maybe 170 grain heads

Carbon? 600 at 29.5". Aluminum? 1916 at 29.5". If you really want 170 grains on the front that is my recommendation. If you're not sure what tip weight then you can have other options. I'm assuming a low stretch string.

Thanks George I was thinking 1916 also but wanted advise from more experience wallers

like yourself

yup, 1916's

1916's X3 with that heavy of a head.

X4

In carbons I'd try .600 spine. Start full length using your chosen tip weight and cut very small amounts (1/4") as you tune. The easton axis are great shafts. I use a longer arrow (34") in .500 spine that black eagle makes in 40# bow with very good results.

If your looking for wood arrows, contact the folks a Wapiti and they will steer you right.

1916, 2013, 1820 might work, 500 carbons will work too, #7 and 8 fiberglass, 50- 54#, 55-59# should all work. They do in my 35 & 40 pound bows albeit at 28.5” bop.

I'm shooting a 43@ 28 longbow I draw 26 so +- 38# for me 28" gt 600 with 175 are ok but dive bomb past 25 yds I'm gonna try 700 with 145 however may be getting kinda light for deer hunting

Just something to think about. With a bow @40# you can get .600 shafts that will get you a tuned finished weight anywhere between 350 to 500 or so grains. Obviously the lighter arrows will be much flatter shooting, but heavier may be a little better for close in hunting. Just check the gpi of shafts before you buy and plan accordingly.

Best of luck.

Guys. Your arrows will magically go further (??) if you lower your anchor point. They aren't just dropping due to lack of speed, they're dropping because you have such a short point-on that it looks like they are. I shoot 480 grain arrows from my 43 pound at my draw bow (27") and have a point on of 55 yards. I can still hit a bottle cap at fifteen yards with the same anchor.

I second the 600 carbons. You have more choices with aluminium. There are choices with the point on distance too. If you like long range shooting and I do, the lower anchor and long point on is great. My primary interest is hunting. In the excitement of the moment I don't want to have to think about anything. I like a very short-20 to 25 yard point on. Then anything from touching distance to 20 yards (my max self imposed distance for deer) will be in the boiler room. I may pick up a different bow with a different set up to shoot long range with buddies but my hunting setup never changes. I am just not as adaptable as George at all the different ranges. I make up for it with equipment changes. >>>----> Ken

As Ken described, my primary interest is a set up that will allow me to be as accurate as possible at deer hunting distances--- for me that is a fixed crawl and an arrow weighing in around 10 gpp. Obviously, if i want to shoot at 50+ yards i can drop my anchor point and gpp weight, but that does me no good in the deer woods .

Just depends on the game you want to play and how you're wired

I found carbons too stiff at 40 lbs and wanting to use a 125 gr tip. However I have a much shorter draw than you. In the end I went to Aluminium 1816 and have had no issues. It also makes nice weight arrow... Alex

I shoot gold tip 500s with a 175 grain head they bareshaft great for me

Without knowing the center shot or lack of it, hard to say exactly. Would start at full length with any shaft.

As Therifleman said - " Start full length using your chosen tip weight and cut very small amounts (1/4") as you tune. "

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